Kiwifrog
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Posts posted by Kiwifrog
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You could also go to http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rhodes/speedo.pdf It is a 1.3Mb file that adobe opens. This is a manual so you can have a go yourself!! It tells you basically everything you want to know. To me the TR tacho inards look the same as the speedo so the above link applies to both.
Nigel
Nigel
I visited the link you put up, downloaded the pdf and managed to fix my broken tacho using the method described for repairing spedo's. I am now going to try and put a couple of hours aside to have a go at a broken speedometer that I have which looks a little more complicated.
Thats what great about this board, thanks Nigel
Cheers
Alan
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Jim,
No matter what car club you belong to there is always someone who will knock your car, its a human thing, insecure people trying to make themselves feel more important by knocking other peoples choice. Its part of everyday life. Ignore it, lets face it more TR7's were sold than any other TR so it must have been a bloody popular choice in its day. There are good and bad points about all the TR's but if it has TR on the badge it should always be ( and generally is ) welcome in the register. I have owned a Tr2, TR3 Tr4 and TR6 and there are lots of things that were generically wrong with them, ironically the only reason I never owned a TR7 in New Zealand in the 80's when I could enjoy my passion for TRs as they were dirt cheap and nobody wanted them was because TR7's were still a reletivly new car and too expensive for me! I am a register member and I think anyone who spouts any type of rubbish about any type of TR not being welcome in the club is missing the point.
Cheers and have a TRiffic new year
Alan
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What does the field " Export Marker " on the DVLA site mean ?
Alan
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I find Gas welding much simpler and quicker than mig welding, but then at the moment I spend an awful lot of time gas welding at work. I agree that you almost have to relearn MIG welding if you have had a break for a while. One tip I use is to mark the wire feed adjustment with a pen where I find it works best on thin sheet, as I always find this the hardest bit to get right when restarting.
I run my MIG gassless which leaves a weld that is not as tidy as using it with c02/Argon. I tend to use it for non visable repairs as I use OXY-Acetelene on external panels as it is easier to work with a hammer and dolly afterwards. The good thing about mig is that the heat into a panel is minimal so distortion is small when compared with using a gas welder, but still be carefull to only weld small sections at a time, between 1/2 to 1/2 inches at a time to minimise heat distortion in the panel. Once you have a bit of practice you will also find the mig makes a wonderful spot welder as well
Alan
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MK,
Some of the panels came with the car, ie the rear valance, I believe it is an early Cox and Buckles panel, I needed to "lean" a bit on the top edge to get it to the correct height but this could have been due to to poor stocking of the item over the last 20 odd years. The rest of the pannels are British heritage sourced through moss but available just about everywhere. The fit is fairly good, the boot floor and spare tyre carrier were very good, the rear quarter closing panels ok with a very small amount of adjustment required where they meet the inner wings, but could have been caused by the inner wing repairs. The rear saddle panel is the only one which has a slight error as it is about 3/4 of an inch wider on the left hand side than it is on the right hand side, an easy thing to correct as I just need to remove the fold where the panel meets the inner wing and re-fold it in the vice using a couple of bits of angle iron.
The curve of the saddle panel and the rear valance match almost perfectly the curve of the boot lid which is origonal. I cant vouch for the spare tyre door as I have not yet straightened it out form its 1970's rear ender.
Cheers
Alan
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I agree with Don on removing only 1 panel at a time. I have just done the rear end on my TR2 which was essentially missing due to an accident the car had in the 70's before it was taken off the road. To get the dimensions right to reassemble the rear end took 4 x the time to measure, test fit adjust etc than it did to weld and the welding took a bit of time! ???
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Yoke
It is impossible to say wether the price is right or not as I do not know the Canadian market. What I will say is that these cars can be very expensive to restore if you can not do the bulk of the work yourself. Beware of missing small items as well, a lot of the little parts, dials gauges handles etc can be very hard to find and expensive, its amazing how much they all add up to at the end of a restoration. It is usually best to buy the best car you can afford unless you are like a number of the people on this forum and have masichositc tendencies.
Having said that, rebuilding a ruin can be fun and satisifying just dont expect to be able to drive it in the next decade
Alan
:blues:
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I was under the impression that it was a very narrow band of amps that will kill you by stopping your heart I thought it was round the 50 to 70 milliamps range. Above that it tends to hurt lots but not be fatal untill you get to the voltage/current combination where burns occur.
The myth about 240V throwing you off has to be discouraged, I had first hand experience of being "stuck" on the end of 240V when I was working on some equipment and another apprentice decided to switch it on. It hurt like hell and there was no way I could declamp my hand which had firmly closed on the equipment chassis before the powed was switched off.
My apprentceship also involved working tv type equipment and I used to have a nice black scar running up my right forearm from the thumb (entry point) to my elbow (exit point) when the annode of a crt became detached and sent 31000 volts up my arm. It did not realy hurt but it smoked a bit and had an unpleasent odour.
You can now quess why I am retraining as a plumber
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Nigel,
Have sent you some photies by email
Cheers
Alan
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Could somone tell me if the origonal TR2 floors are exactly the same as TR3-3a Floors, or are the ridges that form the stiffners of the floor different.
I am asking because I have a TR2 which has replacement floors in it that are servicable. The person I bought the car from told me that they were stanpart TR2 floors that he had put in the car in the 60's. The floors look nothing like TR3a floors as the ridges that form the stiffners in the floor are not wide and parallel as on a TR3a and they are at an angle to the floor edge ( Almost a V) and they do not right across the floor as on a 3a. The reason for the question is that after almost a year TR3a floors are again available from MOSS and while doing the rest of the car I will do the floors as they are not that expensive. However if the floors in the car are as Origonal I will clean them up and keep them.
Cheers
Alan
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TGNY, Contact TR4Tony he may have a good origonal for sale, he always seems to have interesting stuff being cleared from his private hoard. If you look through the old items in the for sale forum you will find his contact details.
Cheers
Alan
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Hi all
I am going to embark on the rebuild of a very late TR2 comission TS8442 reg YPF427. The previous owner ( who had owned the car since 1968 ) had started the body repairs after a rear end shunt. Unfortunatley the project was abondoned after verious body parts had been removed. The remaining body is very rusty ( hence the nickname disprin) and needs a total rebuild. Does anyone know where I can get a diagram with the body alignment measurements on it ?
As an aside if anyone knows the history of the car before 1968 I would be interested in hearing from them. The green log book states the car was first registered on 26th Oct 1955.
Cheers
Alan
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Kegsie,
I second what Richard said, check evrything else first. I had a simular problem on a TR4a (almost the same rear suspension setup) and found that it was actually caused by worn splines on the wire wheel hubs! I had checked the UJ's and they were fine and was just getting used to the idea that I would have to remove the diff and repair the mountings when I noticed that even with the handbrake on the rear wheels still had movement at their rim. On investigation the drums did not turn at the same time. Although the wire wheel splines did not look too bad they were worn enough to allow movement. After replacing them the problem disappeared.
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I am not saying this is your problem but do not jump to conclusions before spending a lot of time investigating, as my boss used to tell me when I was an apprenti, " eliminate the simple things first, only when all the easy routes have been tried and found not to work, should you attempt the difficult"
Cheers
Alan
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Clive,
How is the rest of the TR2 coming along ? Any more pictures ?
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I agree with Richard on the pattern sills they need a bit of belting to get them to fit. If you can patch your old sills its a much better way to go. Mine had the typical TR4 large frilly aeration holes running along their entire bottom length.
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Hi Jeremy,
I second what Ron said, I have replaced the sills on my TR4 which are the same as a TR6 and it was not super difficult but was very time consuming.
Before you start mark round the hinges on the A post so you have a reference for them when lining everything up. Also measure the length of the top of the door opening and the diagonals from the top of the B post to a known point near the bottom of the A post that will not be distirbed during the work, I used a marker pen to make my datum points, next take the same measurements from the top of the A post to the bottom of the B post. These measurements are unlikly to change when you are doing the work but if an uneven gap "appears" it is nice to know where it came from so that you can correct it. Also measure the gap between the bottom of the door and the top of the sill in at least 3 places ( front middle and rear) before you start as well. I forgot to do this and had to get help from the forum.
I found the easiest way to remove the outer sills was to cut them away from the bottom of the a and b posts with a grinder fitted with a cutting disk and remove most of the old metal in bulk but keeping well away from the edges and seams where the spot welds are, that is to say cut out the middle of the panel first so that there is less rusty metal to get in the way of the fine work. Then buy a spot weld cutter drill fitting from frosts and go round the remainder of the panel and remove the spots.
If the verticle parts of the floor are ok and you leave the interior sill in place then the body alignment should not move as the a and b posts are held in position by the inner sill and the verticle edge of the floor prevents it from sagging. But always check and measure before making any definitive welds!
Next tack in you new outer sill with a few light tacks so it does not move. Refit the door and front and rear wings and check the alignment. Be very careful under the doors as it is quite tricky to get the sill alignment right with an even gap front to back under the door and may take a few attempts. One of the sills I used was a repro and was slightly banna shaped with the gap under the centre of the door being a little less than the two ends. The other was a TR6 sill that I bought off of TR4Tony and it fitted beautifully.
When you are happy with the fit of the door and the wings you can then go round and weld proper the sill. I chose to seam weld the bottom of the A and B posts as I had repairs to let in, from what I can tell on my 4 they seemed to be spot welded in place then brazed which may have been an earlier repair.
For the rest of the spots I drilled a 5mm hole in the new panel and used my MIG to create "spot weld" look alike welds, of course you could also just hire a spot welder!
Hope this helps a little bit, to give an idea of timing it took me about 8 hours a side for the outer sills to get them right and I had to mount the doors and wings a couple of times and retack the sill twice on the repro panel before I was ok with the fit.
Cheers
Alan
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I have been driving round in a TR4a along the twisty (read fun) back roads round my way as reasonable speeds for the last couple of weeks. The steering and front suspension has been sorted wheel alignment and geometry set up correctly, rear suspension sorted and new rear shocks and it goes round corners as well as my modern. I think if any car is neglected handling falls away rapidly. After driving the 4a IRS I think its reputation for not handling very well is exagerated!
thats my tuppensworth
Alan
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Last time I bled the oil gauge I removed the distributor arm and just cranked the engine over till I got oil out of the the end of the pipe. Best to start the engine first get some oil pressure up, stop engine, remove rotor arm then disconnect the oil pressure line, crank the engine over till oil comes out then reconnect. I have found the amount of oil coming out of a running engine can be a bit excessive. Make sure you either remove the carpet on the gearbox tunnel or cover it with an old towel as bleeding the oil pressure pipe can get messy
Cheers
Alan
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Had the same problem with a TR4a. It turned out to b ethe voltage Regulator, quite cheap frem the usial stochests ( about £30)
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oops wrong thread, should have been on the "how to drive a TR4 " thread .......Its been a long day
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Thats Nothing
You should see the way the farmer up the road uses his "Peugeot 205" tractor to round up his beef cattle from his field. His car holes in it as well but they are not from bullets but "Excitable Bulls"
; :
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After Having my front brakes lock on on the weekend and boil the fluid at 70MPH leaving me with no brakes at a very embarrasing moment I second Tonys thoughts about the calipers being a profesional Job. I believe mine sufferedbecause the car has not been driven for a couple of years and they seemed all right at lower speeds.The car has now been booked into a specialist for a caliper rebuild. I would have been much more embarrased if I had actually hit the back of My friends "Like New" TR3a which had stopped in front of me, and the owner had Just got out of the paint shop 2 days before :blush: :blush:
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Marco
The Gasket seemed to line up ok with the holes but I will double check, hard to tell with the filters!
Cheers
Alan
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Have been through everything including checking the oil trap for blockages. The Inlet manifold is ok as it was of my 4 which I am still putting back together ( and which ran perfectly before I decided to take it off the road and tidy it up a bit) I have tried with an old pair of filters and it is much better. I have ordered a replacement set of TR4a filters and a colortune plug which I will use to confirm/reset the mixture with the filters on. Balancing the carbs was fairly easy with the balance gauge but the mixture setting can not be done the conventional way with the filters on, so will try the colortune. Anyone else out there that has good/bad opinions on the colortune plug ? As I have never used or for that matter even seen one!
Cheers
Alan
Replacement Dash pad
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Clive,
My dash pad has bolts to hold it down. I have helped a friend re-upolster and put new carpets into a couple of cars now and have found that double sided carpet tape will stick almost anything to almost anything else.
BTW where in france are you ? I am in the 24
Cheers
Alan