FatJon
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Posts posted by FatJon
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When you bleed it does more air come out? Logic says that if air is getting in then fluid is getting out. The system has a fixed volume so it can’t be otherwise.
Any smoke, maybe the fluid is getting past the seals and into the servo.
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I have a phoenix wheelbarrow system on my TR6 without problems, installed in 2020 I think.
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Mine goes in from the back, works perfectly. 71 PI.
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I have left closed engines in pretty damp places for years without rusted bores. Just rebuilt an mx5 engine which has been on a damp barn floor for 10+ years. Externally it was a rusty mess but internally shiny metal. It was drained of coolant but had oil in it.
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On 1/8/2023 at 7:32 PM, JochemsTR said:
here in germany , MS and Ecumaster are well available. My seller has both of them and advised on Ecumaster. Ecumaster is a professional device, superior to MS. Housing and connectors meet all IP and EMC requirements. Software is included with all its options and programmable safety features and easy to use. Feel free to compare the ECUs yourself. I am glad I followed his advise and happy ever since.
This is my personal opinion. Nothing more, nothing less. I know there are lots out there being fully satisfied with MS and Emerald. I even had my test setup running with Speeduino. Does the job too. Like MS, these are DIY ECUs. When a customer wants MS, I install MS. When a customer asks for my recommendation, I recommend Ecumaster.
MS Pro versions are very nice. I use an MS Pro Evo on mine and there is really nothing on any other ECU that’s not available on mine. But of course they are 2 or 3x the price of the cheaper MS units in a metal box with a D connector.
It’s a little unfair to declare the entire MS system to be unprofessional. The basic home user versions are not professional in terms of the enclosure and connector hardware but the software is exactly the same as the Pro units with their automotive connectors and superior build quality.
It is fair to say the MS units require a much greater knowledge if electronics and if that’s not your area they are not a great choice.
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Hard to give a simple answer. Some repro parts are really nice some are garbage. Reconditioned originals are going to be expensive if they are being reconditioned by skilled UK craftsmen at skilled UK craftsman labour rates. I used very little reconditioned stuff but the repro parts I used were always top end suppliers, for example Racestorations, TRGB etc rather than EBay junk. Not that it’s all junk by any stretch. People have had a dig at Rimmers but I have never had a bad part from them yet, OK, once- TR6 sun-visors which would probably fit a bus better.
My main problem with reconditioning is not the cost but the time it takes. I had odd bits done and waited months for them. I’ve had a head away for 13 months and counting!
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An electronic one with a remote sensor is better for a permanent fit. I would always want to avoid a hose full of fuel at 110psi behind the dash.
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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Shaun, does this help with your understanding of how the system works?
https://mechanicbase.com/coolant/how-a-radiator-coolant-overflow-tank-works/
This does miss a very important point. When the cooling system cools the vacuum draws the coolant back from the expansion bottle and into the radiator. That little valve in the radiator cap is an inspired bit of tech.
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NGK manufacture in USA, India, Thailand, Malaysia and several countries of Europe.
Not aware of them making anything in China or Russia.
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Correction, when I say under them I mean between servo and master cylinder.
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A useful tip.
When the brakes lock on, hop out, spanner in hand and loosen the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the servo by a 1/16". If it instantly releases the brakes you have found the culprit. You can put two washers under them as a temporary bodge to get you home.
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Servo pushrod incorrectly adjusted. After a few miles the brakes will be locked solid and the pedal rock hard.
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on my EFI where I can see the advance very accurately I have 12BTDC at idle rising to 32BTDC at a 3000rpm cruise. It only goes over 32 on a high vacuum overrun.
The 4Atdc was a bodge to meet US emissions. Don’t do that to a PI, it won’t like it at all.
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12 hours ago, BIGRED said:
Thanks for your vote of confidence, really good, particularly against all the other naysayers. Have you installed he MX5 gearbox as of now or is it a future project
I drove my friends for a day and I’m about to but the conversion from Vitesse to go in with my new engine.
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11 minutes ago, RobH said:
Why not just buy an MX5 then instead of trying to change a TR into one ?
I have, and the MX5 is great in every way but one, it’s doesn’t look like a TR6.
I will also not be returning to hub assemblies that knock the pads back, 1960’s tech mechanical injection, a fuel pump that whines and packs up on hot days etc.
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The MX5 box works fantastic on the TR6 and is absolutely slick in its action. I tried one for a day and it’s the very next thing on my list. It is night and day better than the TR box/pudding stirrer, with or without overdrive and the ratios are perfect.
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Domestos, neat, work in well, then rinse well.
Probably not great for skin but very effective.
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I use bosch 200cc ones from a bmw 320.
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2 hours ago, Steve-B said:
Thanks @Tom Bfor the pointers. If the servo contains fluid does it mean it needs to be replaced as well as servicing the master cylinder? Or if it contains fluid, just rebuilding the MC?
The servo will be fine, drain it and put it back in use.
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Correction, not EBay. This is the one I used:
https://www.rspec.co.uk/product-page/52mm-clear-lens-black-face-oil-pressure-gauge-bar
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I bought mine off EBay, works fine after a year and the sensor came with it.
The sensor and gauge have to be matched, you can’t just combine any with any.
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18 hours ago, tr graham said:
5 degrees in
0.5 degrees in!
Waterless engine Coolant
in TR6 Forum
Posted
It's expensive, it's flammable, it has a lower heat capacity than water, it has slower heat transfer than water. You need to carry even more of it around with you in case you spring a minor leak, or contaminate it with water to get you home then buy it all over again. Its only use is if you have a snake that requires lubrication.
Rather like stuff that "dissolves carbon" from your engine. Challenge the vendor to name one substance in which carbon is soluble other than molten iron.