Rod Mac

The rubber stopper is something I don't fully understand. They appear unavailable but surely the height of them affects the operation of the solenoid plunger? Replacement by metal screw looks a good idea so I'll experiment once I have a new solenoid. Currently I have a lump of plastic cable-tied in place.

Thanks Rob. Just ran that resistance check and getting 11.2 ohms at both ends of the plunger extension. So, as you say, the pull-in coil is not functioning. Looks like a quality replacement is the next step. Thanks very much for the guidance.

Thanks Rob. Yes, hard to measure as my car no longer has a working ammeter after I converted to neg earth and alternator. I understand the two-coil setup but have probably failed to test that initial high current kick. I'm also wondering if my makeshift rubber stop for the plunger is too big, or even too small. The original disintegrated and I've fashioned a replacement, which is potentially meaning the plunger "at rest" is too far down for the current to pull up. More tinkering to come I suspect.

Can't get a reading of 20a on multimeter, looks like a much smaller reading so likely the required pull current isn't there. I'll see if I have an old solenoid lying around and check the difference. Thanks both.

Anyone got views on differing qualities in solenoids? I have finally got my A type overdrive working when I operate the lever on the right/driver side of the unit. Engaging and disengaging ok as I run the car on axle stands. On the electrical side though I can get the solenoid plunger pulling up ok and moving the operating lever, but only really with the ignition on and car not running. Once started though, in 3rd or 4th gear and running, the solenoid plunger lifts a feeble 1mm or so and movement of the operating lever is barely noticeable. I assume it has more pressure to operate a

After a bit of further research it appears some of the later A types had only one accumulator spring, possibly for the 1.75 inch accumulator. I'm 90% sure it's the original unit so going to reassemble on that basis.

Well I busied myself with other tasks but have now carefully removed the cover plate. On first inspection it does not appear cracked or warped but I'll give it a proper clean. Couple of thing I note though. First, there was no gasket at all, or even much sign of sealant. Probably no wonder I had a leak. New gasket obtained so I'll clean the faces and fit. Secondly though, and more concerning. I can see the large accumulator spring (part 500634) but there is no small accumulator spring (part 503167). Am I just reading the workshop manual incorrectly i.e. it should have one or the othe

Thank you all, I'll await new nuts and socket then proceed as above. There are a few scary tales out there I don't want to replicate.

Rich, that's great thank you. I'll order one and get the grindstone ready. Want the maximum socket/nut contact. Pretty certain it's 11/16. What a design for the adapters, and what a faff every time the shoes need inspecting! Thanks for the link Rod

Ah, as these special nuts are 7/16 UNF then it is logical that an 11/16 socket should work on the new nuts when they arrive. I think the 11/16 didn't fit when removing them was because the old ones were horribly rounded. Still may have an issue getting the socket fully over the new nuts but will cross that bridge. Please advise otherwise!

Maybe I have an odd setup (see photos) but in order to access the rear brake shoes I needed to remove my wire wheel adapters. I now have the issue of refitting the adapters with new double bevelled nuts. I've read several threads on the joys of this task i.e. 65 lb torque and the use of a 6 sided socket. Plus ensure the adapters go back on the same hub, as they are somehow handed. Question : Can anyone recommend a socket specification? I have never seen a size recommended on any forum and just want to buy the right one. Getting them off was a beggar as I couldn't get a spanner or soc

Hard to tell where oil leaks come from as the darn stuff moves once it leaks. See my current thread on overdrive oil leak. I will say that my brass plug was leaking and I invested in a new steel replacement from Overdrive Repair Services, the ORS Keith mentions. About £50 and a quality item. The old brass plug was warped. Once I fitted the new one with gasket the problem was sorted. Keith's right though, try cleaning it all up and checking every hour or two to see where it may be starting. I also now have a separate leak around the side plate, and this is starting to run along the casing

It doesn't seem to be on the operating lever. And the casting looks uncracked, although I can't say if it is warped or not. It seems flush with the side of the overdrive unit though. I did clean it all up and have noticed the oil seems to accumulate around the seal between the endplate (adaptor plate from gearbox) and the overdrive unit. I think this is the seal Stuart refers to. It's very slight but I noticed a couple of the nuts which secure the endplate to the o/d were not as tight as I'd expect. I also saw some signs of oil coming through on the bottom left nut/stud holding the solenoid co

Great, thanks Mick and Rich. I'll give it a thorough inspection for cracks before I attempt to carefully remove and keep the springs on place. Fingers crossed I don't need a replacement.......

Hi All - Having now properly sealed the overdrive drain plug (I replaced the original warped brass plug with a fancy steel one) I find that I have a separate leak from the plate on which the solenoid sits. It's the original A-Type unit so it is the bracket on the left side of the unit. I can only assume the underlying gasket is shot. Before I drain the oil and remove the plate, am I going to disturb or displace anything? Looking at the workshop manual it appears to cover the accumulator piston/spring assembly. I'm hoping it's just a case of : remove solenoid, remove cover, remove gasket,