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Rod Mac

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About Rod Mac

  • Birthday 01/03/1966

Profile Information

  • Location
    Edinburgh
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 (1964 - under restoration)
    GT6 Mk3 (not sure this counts but at least it's a runner)

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    rodmclachlan@yahoo.co.uk

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  1. After a bit of further research it appears some of the later A types had only one accumulator spring, possibly for the 1.75 inch accumulator. I'm 90% sure it's the original unit so going to reassemble on that basis.
  2. Well I busied myself with other tasks but have now carefully removed the cover plate. On first inspection it does not appear cracked or warped but I'll give it a proper clean. Couple of thing I note though. First, there was no gasket at all, or even much sign of sealant. Probably no wonder I had a leak. New gasket obtained so I'll clean the faces and fit. Secondly though, and more concerning. I can see the large accumulator spring (part 500634) but there is no small accumulator spring (part 503167). Am I just reading the workshop manual incorrectly i.e. it should have one or the othe
  3. Thank you all, I'll await new nuts and socket then proceed as above. There are a few scary tales out there I don't want to replicate.
  4. Rich, that's great thank you. I'll order one and get the grindstone ready. Want the maximum socket/nut contact. Pretty certain it's 11/16. What a design for the adapters, and what a faff every time the shoes need inspecting! Thanks for the link Rod
  5. Ah, as these special nuts are 7/16 UNF then it is logical that an 11/16 socket should work on the new nuts when they arrive. I think the 11/16 didn't fit when removing them was because the old ones were horribly rounded. Still may have an issue getting the socket fully over the new nuts but will cross that bridge. Please advise otherwise!
  6. Maybe I have an odd setup (see photos) but in order to access the rear brake shoes I needed to remove my wire wheel adapters. I now have the issue of refitting the adapters with new double bevelled nuts. I've read several threads on the joys of this task i.e. 65 lb torque and the use of a 6 sided socket. Plus ensure the adapters go back on the same hub, as they are somehow handed. Question : Can anyone recommend a socket specification? I have never seen a size recommended on any forum and just want to buy the right one. Getting them off was a beggar as I couldn't get a spanner or soc
  7. Rod Mac

    Brass plug

    Hard to tell where oil leaks come from as the darn stuff moves once it leaks. See my current thread on overdrive oil leak. I will say that my brass plug was leaking and I invested in a new steel replacement from Overdrive Repair Services, the ORS Keith mentions. About £50 and a quality item. The old brass plug was warped. Once I fitted the new one with gasket the problem was sorted. Keith's right though, try cleaning it all up and checking every hour or two to see where it may be starting. I also now have a separate leak around the side plate, and this is starting to run along the casing
  8. It doesn't seem to be on the operating lever. And the casting looks uncracked, although I can't say if it is warped or not. It seems flush with the side of the overdrive unit though. I did clean it all up and have noticed the oil seems to accumulate around the seal between the endplate (adaptor plate from gearbox) and the overdrive unit. I think this is the seal Stuart refers to. It's very slight but I noticed a couple of the nuts which secure the endplate to the o/d were not as tight as I'd expect. I also saw some signs of oil coming through on the bottom left nut/stud holding the solenoid co
  9. Great, thanks Mick and Rich. I'll give it a thorough inspection for cracks before I attempt to carefully remove and keep the springs on place. Fingers crossed I don't need a replacement.......
  10. Hi All - Having now properly sealed the overdrive drain plug (I replaced the original warped brass plug with a fancy steel one) I find that I have a separate leak from the plate on which the solenoid sits. It's the original A-Type unit so it is the bracket on the left side of the unit. I can only assume the underlying gasket is shot. Before I drain the oil and remove the plate, am I going to disturb or displace anything? Looking at the workshop manual it appears to cover the accumulator piston/spring assembly. I'm hoping it's just a case of : remove solenoid, remove cover, remove gasket,
  11. Oh splendid, so it was intended to prevent pads and shoes from retracting too far. Good, I'll remove and run the pipe straight into the connector. Thanks Rob
  12. Hi all. Just finished putting all new brake cylinders and pipes in and was preparing to bleed everything. Unfortunately I've discovered a leak at the union where the pipe from the master cylinder goes into the 4-way connector on the chassis. From a little research I find it goes into a restrictor valve attached to the 4-way, part 116197. I had created a DIN/bubble flare but am starting to think the restrictor valve is not suited to a bubble flare and may need an adaptor or different type of flare. Looking down into the restrictor valve it does not look like a DIN type of "funnel" rec
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