Trumpy
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Posts posted by Trumpy
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Sensible easy fix , I didn’t think of that solution.
D -
On 5/16/2021 at 1:21 PM, DenisMc said:
Hi Jon,
My TR5 has the original style Winguard mirrors on both doors. The mirror on the driver's side gives a reasonable rear view but try as I might I cannot get a good view from the mirror on the passenger side. I have tried rotating the support and re-positing the mirror head, without success. The driver's door mirror is positioned exactly as a Triumph data sheet a forum member directed me to and on the passenger side the same position has been used. I know that this is not very helpful, but I would be interested to hear how you get on. Perhaps you could get someone to hold the mirror in place on the passenger door to ensure that you can obtain a good view before you drill a hole in the door!
Regards,
Denis
Hi Denis ,
you’re probably sorted now but this may help .
I had the same problem with the replica winguard mirrors and the adjustment became something of an obsession!
The car Tr5, just had the drivers door mirror fitted when I bought it and I fitted a matching passenger door mirror .
Neither mirror would adjust inwards enough but the passenger side was way out .
The mirror glass can be prised out and with a bit of careful grinding the adjustment bolt can be removed.
Then I slotted the hole in the mirror body with a file until the mirror head would adjust inwards enough.
The curved outer chromed plate covers the slotted hole but this needs trimming on one side to allow the necessary adjustment.
I now have both period mirrors set exactly how I want them making for a much easier drive .
I can now obsess about something else !
hope this helps.
Dave
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Yes , good to meet up and pick a few tips up as well . Hope to catch up again .
Dave -
Just had a look at the Thoresby hall event, i think i may go there instead . I didn't know it was on .
Might bump in to you .
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First classic event with my Tr5 tomorrow (Sunday) . Any other Trs heading to Rutland ? .
I’m driving from Lincoln about 9(ish)Dave
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Had a run out through Mkt Rasen (Lincs) to Willingham woods this morning , Full of bikes as usual but no classics ! Did see 2 Tr 4s a 6 and a 7 on route tho’
Now at Daisy Made farm for an ice cream
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Thanks , yes I don’t know the purpose of the nib end , makes it easier to bleed ?
I wasn’t going to admit this but one new injector slipped from my hand and sprung on the plastic pipe against the head breaking the nib off. (Anyone this side of Nottingham would’ve heard the swearing ) .
It still seems to have a good conical mist though, visually the same as the others so it’s been fitted .
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Quick update,
I took the injectors to a local specialist for testing. The results ranged from poor to awful.
so in a moment of rashness I called at Rimmer’s and invested in a new set .
Fitted and bled , car now starts ‘on the button’ and after a minute or two settles down and runs smoothly. Was going for a test run but it started snowing!
Also compression tested, showed a v healthy 14bar av across the 6 cylinders . (200psi) . Is this higher than normal ?
Hoping all will now be good for the summer
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I agree, and the holes are just visible .
I think I’ll get all 6 checked and cleaned .thanks all . Dave
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Ah , makes sense thanks . So all the same .
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Would the short ended injector have a different part no though?
my short one has 14 - 69. 73045A identical to a needled one .Needled injectors all have the same 73045A but some have differing prefix no’s 47 - 69 / 6 - 69 / 14 - 71
Even looking at the end through a magnifying glass it’s not clear either way but as the car was running i think it’s most likely Ok .
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It is a bit worrying thinking that tip may be in the cylinder. I have had as good look in there as possible and used a magnetic screwdriver in the hope it may pick something up.
A camera will be the best way to be sure .
I’ll recheck the serial nos n the injector. One does look slightly different but not that one , apart from the missing tip.
I can see from previous receipts that it had 5 inj checked and one replaced a few years ago . Seems a coincidence?The car had some running issues when cold but no6 cyl has definitely been firing ,
I’ll check the injector end with a magnifying glass and see if it looks broken. If it is a different type that’s the best result!
thanks . D -
Hi all ,
I removed the injectors on my 5 last night to get them checked and cleaned and discovered the injector on no6 cylinder has no tip! ( snapped off. )
My first thought was that I had been clumsy and snapped it off removing it but I know I was careful.Is there any reason why a tip should get damaged in situ ? . I find it hard to believe the previous owner would have fitted a broken injector.
This of course means the tip has passed through the engine but fortunately with no outward signs of damage .
Thanks, Dave
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My 5 achieves that when cold
I was told to expect a minimum 10psi / 1k rpm hot.
Not sure how acurate a 50yr old gauge is tho’ -
So what pressure should we expect on a Tr5/6 engine at hot tick over ?
mine drops to approx 10psi but no sign of the light flickering . -
Hi Tim
The same type is still available on eBay , the link doesn’t seem to copy to the forum but it’s from carbitsnbobs
furl pump inertia cut off switch .
The one I’ve used has a yellow top . I can’t recommend this and can only assume it will work.
it’s a used part but I thought it may be better than a cheap Chinese copy that are also available on eBay . And it has the plug and wires etc .
Best of luck. Dave -
It was the quick easy route tbf . I did consider the risk of electric and petrol next door to each other and ran the wire through a conduit and being in the C section of the chassis is extremely well protected but I take on board the concerns above and will re route the wire for peace of mind . Thanks for the advice.
I did take the car for a run today with no noticeable difference in performance but at least I now have an inertia switch fitted .
Dave
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All wired up . New cable running down the chassis alongside the fuel feed pipe .
The pump has already been moved to the rear wheel arch but the wiring was thin . The original white pump wire in the boot is a good thickness but it was poorly connected and the wires pulled apart v easily.
I connected the new pump feed to fuse no2 which is a permanent live straight from the battery ( brown wire) and it conveniently had a spare spade connector.
The switched relay feed is from fuse 1 ( green wire)
I ran the pump for a couple of minutes through a 10amp fuse with no problem.
Pump certainly sounds good , I’ll hopefully get a chance to give the car a run out tomorrow and see if there is any improvement.
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41 minutes ago, Tim T said:
Dave/Richard,
To clarify my concern.
My feed to the pump is 17amp. Revingtons suggest the Bosch pump draws 13 amp so all is fine there? I was hoping to fit an inertia switch in the boot near the pump direct in the live supply. However I think that I had read that most inertia switches are rated at 10amp. Whilst I understand that the switch does not draw any current in its own right it’s components must cope with a current slightly greater than that which the pump draws, hence the need for a relay?
Or am I missing the point?
Many thanks one and all.Tim
Relay in the boot should work just fine with the inertia switch . (IMO)
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Hi Richard,
I don’t disagree with what you say .
I haven’t quoted any hi amp figures, I believe my Sytec pump draws about 8 amps so similar to your figures.
Tim mentioned 17amps but I think he was referring to the cable rating in his new loom rather than the pump requirements.
The fact his loom has an uprated pump feed highlights a problem with the original wire .
Earth wise Steve advised that Trs tend to have poor earth return through the chassis/ body . The cable I have is twin core so it is no problem to return the earth straight to the battery , otherwise totally agree , any bolt would do .
A 53year old ignition is likely to have reduced load capacity and by using a relay I have reduced the load by 8 amps. Maybe not necessary but easy enough to do and this allows me to add the inertia switch and an imobiliser.
Fully understand that these switches dont require any amount of ampage to work , we are talking about the switching load capacity ( as you say). As they will only power a relay for me this isn’t an issue but I think Tim may be looking to fit an inertia switch directly into the pump feed wire , hence he asked if my switch had a rating . I’m sure it does but it’s not quoted in the advert.
My pump appears to operate just fine at present and tbf I’m doing this to fill a couple of evenings rather than watch more rubbish tv but it does seem to be a popular upgrade that owners do and can only have a positive result , unless my immobiliser leaves me stuck at the road side ! A bypass wire in the glove box may be a good idea .
thanks all . D -
Ordered a switch off eBay , it seems to be a fairly standard type used for Peugot Landrover etc . I needed one with a plug though so this limited the choice somewhat.
It didn’t specify an ampage rating but as it will be in the relay circuit I don’t think that matters to much .
I’ve also ordered an isolator switch ( as Kevos diagram) with a key fob button as some added security against theft .
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3 hours ago, Kevo_6 said:
Hi Dave, you may find my wiring diagram helpful, not dissimilar. I would fit the inertia switch on the bulkhead as per TR6.TR6 CP KG Wiring Dia.pdf
Brilliant thanks . If Tr6 inertia switch is on the bulkhead then obviously ok . And an immobiliser switch in the circuit. Sensible.
D
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4 hours ago, Tim T said:
Dave, my feed is 17amp, 2mm, 28 strands, braided,
cheers
Tim
Great , thanks . At 2.8mm mine should be well up to the job .
just waiting for the inertia switch to arrive .
Good luck with fitting the new loom.
D
Hood stowage cover . Tr 5
in General TR Technical
Posted
Hi , does anyone know if the hood stowage cover ( for when the hood is down) is the same for Tr4/5/6 .
I see they are available for a 6 but no mention of 4/5 s .
thanks . Dave .