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Everything posted by Trumpy
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The rotor arm is fine , it was the whole rotor shaft that was able to turn independently of the engine. Hence a bit of a misfire !
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I decided to delve deeper into this issue tonight. I removed the distributor , pin and driving dog are all intact , the roll pin is fine ( I removed it to double check . ) The female part of the dog drive within the block is fine , I tried to move it with a large screwdriver but it is solid . The distributor is solid between the rotor and the dog drive at its base so no slippage there ! I’ve stripped the distributor to check the weights and drive there but all seems ok and no signs of a problem. Somewhat baffled I replaced the distributor and it dropped firmly into the slot ,
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Hoping so , I’ve just seen price of a new one . I’ve resisted the temptation to take it to bits so far but I may pull it out and check the drive pin later .
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Oil pressure is ok thankfully, do they share the same drive ?
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Took my 5 out this morning, all seemed well until it suddenly ran rough , back firing and ‘jerking’ and stopped . It seemed to restart momentarily but then back fired and stopped , as if the ign timing had suddenly moved ! I initially checked the fuel supply which is good, then the distributor. The rotor arm appears ok but it will turn! independently of the engine . It kind of holds into place, held I think by the sprung advance/ retard mechanism but can quite easily be moved 360* by hand . I guess the pin drive to the cam shaft has failed . Is this likely or are there any other
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We’re heading down this year along with some friends in their Lotus Eclat , booked through Scenic car tours . I’ve heard good things about the event and looking forward to it . I’ll report back
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That makes perfect sense and looking at the pipe work to the cooler I can’t see how oil syphons back , although surely the pump can still drain back from the filter if oil can back flow .
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Having now run my 5 for a while with the small QFL0099 filter I haven’t noticed any reduction in oil pressure, although the air temp has been pretty low so the oil temp probably hasn’t peaked . But what is very noticeable is the delay in pressure showing upon start up . With the K&N filter with the anti syphon valve pressure appeared in about 1 second after start up . So almost instantly. With the current smaller filter it takes about 3 seconds which seems like an eternity waiting for the light to go out . The oil cooler no doubt contributes to this ! I’ll certainly go bac
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ah , mine has the zip out rear panel so obviously a newer hood . Never unzipped though !
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Hi folks, My otherwise ‘fairly good’ mohair soft top needs new window panels fitting . They’ve done the usual hardening and become brittle. I’ve been given an estimate of £300-£350 to renew the panels including removal and refitting of the hood to the frame . A new mohair hood is £650 ! So my dilemma is should I repair or renew ? I like the originality of the old hood although it’s almost certainly not the actual original.(I believe cars came with vinyl hoods ? ) It has a couple of small repairs but still looks good and doesn’t leak . I wondered if anyone has had new window
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Classic Car Stereo - anybody used them / have one of their units?
Trumpy replied to GreatOldOne's topic in General Technical
I found a new old stock 1970’s Motorola radio on eBay .( I was somewhat sceptical until it arrived boxed and the discoloured poly bag still sealed ) . I then sent it away to have Bluetooth fitted . Sat nav works well through my iPhone and I have a 60s/70s/80s playlist to keep in character. never bothered with dab radio and not fitted an ariel but it would work through the iPhone if required. my only gripe is the volume control has been bypassed so I have to use either the phone control or there is a remote that came with the conversion. speakers fitted into the panels behind the H fr -
No worries , I’ll come and see you when I’m ready for a new set
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Sorry Stuart , I miss understood your reply , I thought you were advocating always using the clutch to engage/ disengage the od , but it’s the opposite. I guess the main thing is that it’s a smooth change , without any ‘snatching’
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I do match engine speed when engaging/disengaging the od . a slight lift of the throttle when engaging , and when disengaging a slight increase in throttle . I do clutch if i'm decelerating (as in approaching a t junction ) . But i take your point regarding od longevity and clutching is probably a good habit i should get into. .
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i hang my head in shame ! Although in my defence i think they do look period (although maybe not to your trained eyes ) and to be fair the car does ride nicely on them and handles well . No track days though ! I see test shows serious short comings in the wet which may well have put me off had i seen this before purchasing , dry performance quite reasonable though. I guess you get what you pay for to some extent , the set of 4 cost less than 1 Michelin . I'll have to up my budget , like folk say you soon forget the cost (but your wife remembers ! ) If my next post is r
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I tend to when dropping out of od and decelerating just to smooth things and take strain off the unit but not otherwise. I guess the cars all drive a little differently.
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Nice article , Not sure i agree with the heavy clunky gear change comments though ,
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I hadn’t thought of looking at my heritage certificate and it does specify . Dunlop sp41 tyres . A quick google and the Dunlop tread pattern matches the tyres in the photo so not cross plys. I always wondered why the original owner paid extra for wired wheels but hadn’t had radial tyres fitted ! Now I know he did .
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Unless you are looking for originality I would go electric, much more efficient and better cooling . Especially at lower engine rpm , when stuck in traffic etc . With a thermostat it will trip on and off as required and can be adjusted to the required engine temperature.
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Did the Tr6 come with Michelin tyres as standard ? I ask as a picture taken of my car when it was new appears to show crossplys. Admittedly it’s a Tr5 so a year or two older ( yeh, i know I’m in the wrong forum ) but I’m surprised Triumph supplied their new 150hp roadster on poor tyres . It had worn but Michelin XAS on when I bought it but being on a tight budget I replaced them with much cheaper Dimax classic 185/70 s . They have period looks and shape and four years in are performing well . pics to show old and new
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I’ve had to pop out to the garage to check this revelation out . The manual is specific to 6 pot cars (including tr6 ) but I hadn’t noticed the rocker assembly shown has only 8 rockers , so as you say a 4 cylinder. That certainly explains the difference.
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Interesting that you say that , the pic is from my Tr5/250 Haynes manual but obviously differs from the actual assembly on my car . Certainly not misled , well not by me but possibly by Mr Haynes !
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I’ve already fitted the new rockers and shaft so to late to check them I’m afraid , I didn’t notice any variation when fitting them but I probably wouldn’t without putting a straight edge across them . I was slightly concerned that at tickover 11 rockers had oil exhausting from the drain hole on the rocker top and 1 not . However I could see oil oozing from around the shaft and the lower drain hole and once I upped the revs to 1000rpm all 12 had oil showing so hopefully not a problem . I did squirt oil through the shaft and check oil emerged from all 12 holes before assembly . so
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Popped into Rimmer’s today and the new spring cost the princely sum of 50p . However having now stripped the rocker shaft to fit it I discovered some wear and tear on the shaft and on some of the rockers so it’s now £150 for a new set . Maybe averted a bigger problem down the line though , every cloud !
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Happy new year everyone! I removed the rocker cover for a clean up and a coat of paint today and I noticed the end rocker arms (tr5) haven’t got the small end Springs between them and the rocker shaft end stop . This allows the rocker arm about 3mm of float along the shaft which can’t be good . Is there any reason why these would’ve been missed off intentionally? it’s been like it for the last 5 years at least with no obvious signs of uneven wear or problems - as yet . I wondered if anyone else has come across this ? (pics attached because they’re worth a thousand words )