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Everything posted by Trumpy

  1. That’s good to know , well not really good but at least it’s not just mine . i did have a slight moment when I noticed . just wondering if a car was jacked up front and back would it close door gaps ?
  2. Phew ! Not only mine then . Drivers side was only slight but passenger side v noticeable and the door jammed . At least it returned to normal once on the deck again . The front lift point still has most of the engine weight and suspension/ wheels beyond it . if I lock the end hinged ramps up I can move the lift point forwards and try again . Dave
  3. I found a lift at GEG who offered a 20% discount and next day delivery . impatience took hold so here it is . I was a bit alarmed to see the door gaps open up though when the car was in the air ! Is this normal ? I lifted from the chassis just behind the front wheels ( with a cross beam) and just in front of the rears .
  4. Hi, Sorry , looked at your previous posts but unsure which lift you have . Link sent me to GEG site and their platinum lift which looks v good but doesnt look adjustable . . Could you resend me a link or just model name please . Thanks Dave
  5. Ahh , it was you !! Every where seems to be out of stock at the moment . Thanks for confirming what i thought was possible . Apparently (please correct me if wrong ) the cross strut at the front is an extra that comes with the mobility pack for another £180. Does this just bolt into the frame ? If so then could it be easily shortened from each end to keep the towbar in the middle ? Having now looked into these ramps (somewhat obsessively) i think the strongman is maybe the one of the better models although they all look v similar and all seem to be made in China .
  6. Hi Paul , I phoned Stongman and they confirm the ramps are set to the width. , 820mm between ramps. However i think it would be very easy to shorten the connecting /torsion bar and achieve what ever width was required . Be better if it was a second hand one though as it will undoubtedly invalidate the warranty .
  7. Hi Mick thanks for the reply . My issue is that i have an Austin 7 as well as the Tr5 , both which need to fit the ramps . . The 7 has 900mm between the wheels and would be a bit tight on the ramps, about 700mm is good for both. . I had a chat with a guy at Strongman today. He said that the lift was a fixed width, 820 between the ramps as yours is but it seems the only thing holding the ramps together is a flat plate that bolts onto the front moving arms. (This updated model is slightly different to yours although the flat plate moves up with the ramp and must get in t
  8. That looks a really great installation, I was looking at the cheaper ramp with the central rams but I’m swaying (see what I did there? ) towards one like yours now . Looks a lot more stable and easier to park the car over . Did you set your ramps to that width btw or is it fixed . Spec seems to say it can be adjusted but I can’t see how from the pics . I think I’ll keep a look out for a good used model like yours. thanks Dave
  9. Hi all, Does anyone use a scissor lift for their triumph/garage and how do you rate it . looking at various car lifts the scissor type looks most cost effective and takes virtually no room up in the garage if the car is parked on top of it. I’m sure there must be some down sides ? Any opinions welcomed! thanks . Dave
  10. Hi , This is a learning curve for me but it seems that the rear studs are completely different to the fronts , they have a longer shank and have a tapered fit in the hub , the fronts have a flat fit in the hub and a shorter, thinner shank . At some point my front hubs have been altered to fit rear studs , I assume to get extra length to fit alloy wheels. The extra width and length of the shank prevents the splined hub fitting. Fitting new hubs is probably excessive but if I can pick some up at a good price then I know the jobs done right ! I would’ve used new studs anyhow an
  11. Oh yes , that would do one side and has wires studs in . thanks for sharing. I searched eBay last night but that didn’t come up !
  12. Thanks, It looks like i really need a new set of hubs for piece of mind , and for the correct stud fitment . Although the spacer would solve the current issues and allow fitment as things are now. I had wanted to avoid spacers as they must alter the geometry / steering , maybe not enough to matter though if they are widely used . I tried Rimmers as i live nearby and they have a used pair of hubs at £215 . Hopefully find some cheaper ? I had better check the rear hubs and make sure there are no surprises waiting for me there !.
  13. Hi all , i tried fitting my cars original splined hubs back on tonight and I’ve come across some stud issues . I had expected to simply cut the excess length off the studs but the cars front hubs have been champhered ( drilled) to take a tapered ( rear ) type stud . The problems are. 1- the non threaded part of the stud protrudes through the car hub and is a slightly larger diameter than the hole in the splined hub flange , this can be easily remedied by enlarging the hole slightly but . Problem 2- it looks like the non threaded part of the stud will then protrude enough to pre
  14. Thanks again for the replies, Im currently waiting for a set of 51/2” 72 spoke wheels to arrive from the Tr shop . The Vredesteins are certainly well priced , even cheaper than the 185/70 Dimax classic so that seems the sensible choice . I do like the more classic look of the Dimax tho’ !!
  15. Thanks for the info , It makes sense to up grade to the 5 !/2" rims both for reasons above and this will allow a wider tyre to be fitted should i wish . My local tyre man came up with some pretty shocking prices for both the 165/80 and a 185/70 . Had a look on ebay and the best value by a mile are DIMAX Radar classic. These are available in either size at £50 or £65 respectively . Anyone using these ? The Michelins, Pirelli , Dunlops and Vredesteins etc are more than twice that .
  16. Hi , thanks for the reply . If I keep the 165 tyre is there any advantage in going for a 5 1/2” rim over the 4 1/2 ?
  17. The dilemma today is new spoked wheels , chrome or painted ? 4 1/2” or 5 1/2 “ ? This depends of course wether I stick with the 165 tyres or go wider to say, a 185 /70 i would be interested to hear the thoughts of owners with more experience , although I have now clocked up over 100 miles Thanks , Dave .
  18. Ahhh, That’s much better . Thanks I’ll try harder next time .
  19. Hi , thanks for the responses, Peter, yes I have the rubber gaskets , I’m trying to get the profile to run tight along this on the top edge at least . As Graham says , I’ll just keep adjusting until I’m happy. I did very nearly put the door trims on the wrong side . I found pics of cars with these both ways up but have it correct now . this seems to becoming something of an obsession.
  20. Hmm, the pics seem to have loaded upside down ? not sure what's going on here ! I have failed miserably on my first post
  21. Hi everyone, Just a quick post to say hi' . I have recently joined the ranks of TR5 owners with a 1968 model in new white. I'm currently fitting the stainless side trims and light units . Its quite daunting drilling 30 odd holes in the pristine paintwork but it has to be done ! ( Once the first hole is drilled it gets easier .) I've got the trims on and happy with the result but i'm having issues with the light units . They don't seem to fit the curves of the wing particularly well and i've had to resort to some 're-shaping to get a good fit. If i move the trim back 20m
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