Trumpy
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Posts posted by Trumpy
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13 hours ago, Waldi said:
That’s what I suspect.
I have a K&N HP2009.Waldi
thanks Waldi , can you confirm this filter fits the Tr spin on housing ? . The spec doesn’t seem to mention an anti syphon valve tho’ but It’s about time for an annual (1k miles) oil change so I’ll try a K&N .
A thermostat seems a sensible addition as well and I think Rimmer’s have a Triumph sale on
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7 hours ago, Tim D. said:
I have an oil cooler in mine with spinon . Definitely takes less time to come up to pressure than my 2500TC saloon which also had the startup rattle until I went with a spin on. Whether in my tr6 it is slower than when it just had the spin on and no oil cooler is not clear. But remember, when cool the thermostat is closed so in theory the max extra priming is the loop of pipe to the cooler and back.
Tim
Ah , I don’t have a thermostat on my cooler so the pump has to pressurise the whole system on start up . Maybe that would be a worthwhile addition!
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4 hours ago, Waldi said:
Make sure the filter has an anti-drain back valve otherwise the oil can still drain back to the sump. Not all filter cartridges have this.
Waldi
I Can’t find any filters with a valve but the spin on filter sits below the housing so I can’t see a need ? Or can it syphon back ?
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Thanks for the replies and information.
I hadn’t realised the 6cyl triumph motor had problems with oil pressure lag on start up . It makes sense with the original filter bowl assembly as the oil can drain back, but not with the spin on type . I converted the filter to spin on type soon after acquiring the car , I can’t recall a delay before then but certainly with the spin on conversion it was virtually instant . I’ve just started the car now and at tickover timed exactly 2seconds before the light went out which from the comments above sounds reasonable. ( no rumbles ) .
I could give the engine a longer spin on the starter as I have an immobiliser on the pump .
As the oil cooler is below the filter housing I can’t see how oil can drain back anyway tbf , it just seemed strange that fitting the cooler seems to have caused the delay .
Perhaps I need to find something else to worry about
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I fitted an oil cooler a while back (Tr5) and after the car has been stood a while I noticed the oil pressure just takes a second to register on start up . Anyone know if there anything can be fitted to prevent oil syphoning from the system. I have a spin on filter fitted , no external leaks visible. The cooler system was bought as a kit from Rimmer , neither Rimmer or Moss appear to offer a filter with an anti return valve !
Or maybe it’s nothing to worry about !
Dave -
Good point , I’ve checked all obvious leak points and balanced them as much as possible . The engine rpm drops right down when the tbs are blocked off so I’m fairly sure it is the butterflies leaking air . They looked good holding them up to light before fitting .
car runs sweetly now , certainly an improvement , just struggling with tick over .52 minutes ago, super6al said:Could be but I would also check everywhere for leaks (hoses & manifold to gasket) & then ensure the throttles are balanced.
Alan
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Finding this all very interesting .
I recently bought a set of recon cp throttle bodies and replaced my old worn set . The car runs much more smoothly now but even after much fiddling and adjusting I still have to have the air bleed screw virtually shut to get tick over down .
Molykote sounds like the answer . -
Yeh , it looks like it’s just doable, I’ve cut a piece of the rubber mounting gasket away to get better access .
I called Gaz who seemed v helpful, he suggested my initial setting may be too hard and suggested about half way so I’ve gone 3 turns from soft . Fingers crossed ! -
I’ve just replaced my nasty old leaky shock absorbers wirh Gaz adjustable units . The problem now is the adjuster screw is almost impossible to get at as it’s inside the lower spring housing plate.
I’ve initially tightened the screw and turned it back 1 full turn ( no clicks either !).
Anyone have any setting recommendations for these while I have the car in the air pls . Tr 5 road car .
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The washers and seals had been fitted incorrectly before which was confusing me initially. Both the cup washer and hardened steel washer were outside the nylon bush with the rubber seal between them .
I think the overall dimensions would be the same but the seals wouldn’t be very effective. Which probably explains the corrosion on the bolt and spacers .
thanks for the info . Dave -
Thanks folks , re-assembled tonight and it’s all making sense although the rubber seals squeeze out from the steel cup washers when tightening which is annoying.
Torque setting 45-60ft/lb according to the manual !
Can only be better and it wasn’t really bad before . I was actually only replacing the shock absorbers ! -
I’m giving my tr5 front suspension a refresh and the rhs trunnion is looking slightly worse for wear . The washer has worn into it on one side and the bolt was seized in . The new bolt is a bit sloppy so I guess a new one is needed . The TR manual mentions white metal thrust washers but there is no sign of these and the Rimmer catalogue doesn’t show anything, just a plain washer .
Anyone know if thrust washers are required and where to get them ?
I’ve replaced the nylon ‘top hat’ inserts , am I correct in thinking the susp arms pivot on the bolt on these rather than the bolt turning in the trunion . This should then prevent the washer moving against the trunion and wearing into it .
But then why would it need thrust washers ?
And is a certain amount of wear acceptable ?
Confused of Lincoln ! -
Now I’ve seen this it just jumps out at me every time I look at the car . I will have to get a new one to match .
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I’d never noticed until this post but my car appears to have one of each of the rear light lenses .
I assume the Lhs is correct for a 5 ? ..
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On 7/30/2020 at 1:44 AM, foster461 said:
Get a big beach towel to fold and place over the folded top before you put the cover on. It will protect the window and help fill out the cover so it looks neater.
Stan
Top tip ,
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I bought a cover from Rimmer’s this very weekend, tempted by a 10% off offer !
choice of vinyl , double duck or mohair.
They v kindly allowed me to try both the d duck and mohair covers onto the car and I went for the d duck as it seemed slightly larger than the mohair and indeed it has fitted extremely well . Also cheaper but the press studs aren’t included so that adds another £20 quids to the price .
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Well as this topic has just been resurrected - my 5 had a loose steering wheel when I bought it , (the previous owner hadn’t torqued the nut correctly.)
and there was slight play on the splines which had been picked up on the cars previous mot .
I decided to use a dab of locktite on the splines and torqued the nut down .
No more problems ! One day I’ll discover how good the locktite is . -
Anyone have a black ( or red ) hood cover for sale ? mohair would be great or pvc .
To fit a tr5 , I’m not sure if the press stud spacing differs from car to car so probably there will be alterations required?
thanks . Dave -
Brighton seafront !
Tried the London to Brighton rally last Sunday. Good day out , Made even better by a ‘top down’ sunny day .
lots of great classics and a few other Trs as well .
Started from Brooklands museum then an 85 mile run to Brighton with seafront parking on Madeira drive
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13 minutes ago, Trumpy said:
The grub screw is in place on the rocker shaft but the opposite ( front) end is open . Has internal threads and a split pin through but no bung . Should it be closed off ?
sure I’ve seen this mentioned somewhere but can’t find it now .
Actually on closer inspection I think there is a bung but inside the split pin .
All seem ok in there , but surprised the end rockers are allowed to float laterally. Should there be shims ? -
The grub screw is in place on the rocker shaft but the opposite ( front) end is open . Has internal threads and a split pin through but no bung . Should it be closed off ?
sure I’ve seen this mentioned somewhere but can’t find it now .
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1 hour ago, Andy Moltu said:
Have you got a spin on conversion.
If it is the type that isn't spring loaded, has the inner o ring seal been misaligned or not sealing?
I fitted a spin on filter conversion the first time I changed the oil , (oil pressure was better initially but that was down to new oil ) . I was careful to ensure the o rings aligned correctly.
Oil pressure has been fairly constant in the 2 1/2 years I’ve had the car which has always been a concern .
At least it hasn’t got any worse, but obviously the previous owner also tried to improve things with a new pump and mains .
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oil pressure update!
Having looked back through the cars history file I see the engine was fitted with new +20 mains and a new oil pump a year before I bought it . No big end bearings or crank grind at that time tho’.
I’ve checked Oil pressure gauge with a test gauge and it seems cock on !
I also contacted Chris Witor , initially regarding his oil pumps, but we went through all the symptoms and he was of the opinion that the problem still lies with the prv not seating well. He suggested using a 9/16 drill bit to clean the internal face which tends to collect swarf etc from rebuilds .
I found an old drill bit and cut it down to fit in but decided i’d best take a look first. endoscope arrived today and the pic shows the internal face , not quite the ‘smoking gun’ I had hoped for tho’Sorry , rather unclear photo.
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Thanks , I’ll check it out first .
Oil pressure with a cooler
in General TR Technical
Posted
The pipes run side by side down to the cooler (entering from the top) which is fitted in the standard place on the front cross plate under the rad .
everything is below the filter but I think oil could still potentially syphon back through the pump and pickup pipe into the sump unless of course the filter has an anti return valve .
I’m going to try a different filter with a valve to see if that helps , if not I’ll try a thermostat.