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Richmac

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Posts posted by Richmac

  1. Bleeding brakes again sorry

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Hi John 

    Yes my measurement was imperial. I cant take a picture of the mounting end of the cylinder yet as its still connected to the car by the brake lines. I will take it of when my bag of willpower arrives. I am reluctant to start taking it apart on the assumption that it could be the plastic seal. If I had the skill I would have rebuilt the unit myself but have read on here rebuilding can have limited success. I paid Past parts to rebuild for me as experts and they assure me they test the unit on the bench before they send them out. I would like to know what the measurement from the concave push rod to the back of the cylinder should be to compare mine. Might give me an idea of how far out I am. 

    I don't know if its the tipping valve NCT but as above Past parts claim they test before send back.

    Thanks Chris I hear what your saying but would have thought that the master cylinder push rod would sit back in the 'right' place. Its my old cylinder after all and I would guess the same plunger?

  2. Bleeding brakes again sorry

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Thank you Chris and John for trying to help me all useful tips and much appreciated. The thing is I already have a gap across the servo of .02 So if it won't bleed at that then I am in to guess work. I was thinking is there a measurement for the master cylinder push rod to the face of the cylinder so I can measure what I have a work out what I am trying to achieve? Also I can't see whats wrong with making up a gasket to fit between the cylinder and the servo. Would this not achieve the same outcome?

  3. Bleeding brakes again sorry

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks guys for trying to help me but now I'm struggling to move the nut by holding the serrated part of the shaft with pliers and just succeeding in tearing it up. I guess its on with lock tight so I decided to launch my spanner across the garage, lock the door and open a beer. I'll look to see if I can buy a large bag of mixed inspiration and willpower and come back to it another day. Poxy heap of s### I only started with a leaking wheel cylinder. 

  4. Bleeding brakes again sorry

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Sorry call me stupid I have read previous threads and I still don't get it. My push rod has a nut at the top and what looks like a tapered edge further down the thread?? I'm guessing I have to some how hold the push rod on the tapered edge and screw the push rod down further into it or turn the domed nut further down? But thats easier said than done. But first I have to get it of to put some lock tight on it and all the while I have greater than .012 gap anyhow?

    IMG_20200928_133331038.jpg

  5. Bleeding brakes again sorry

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    3 hours ago, John L said:

    Its item 17 in your drawing, you will need to take the master cylinder off, place a straight edge between the 2 mounting studs of the servo, the push rod should be just below the straight edge, less than 0.010"  ten thou.

    I think its written in the manual.

    John

     

    2 hours ago, Michael Mckiernan said:

    Hi Richard , welcome to the wonderful world of TR6 Master cylinder problems.

    As John has said it's the rod protruding from the servo that's adjustable and it is very tight.

    Gave mine about 1/8 - 3/16 free play as it slowly put the front brakes on as the fluid warmed up and expanded.

    Loads of stuff on here about this type of problem.

    Looks like your on the right track good luck.

    Mick.

    Thanks for all the help. Big difference between .01 and 1/8. If its not critical I'm thinking a bit of free play is a good thing?

  6. Bleeding brakes again sorry

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks John. It suggests in the Haynes manual to do this with the engine running. Is this necessary? Also I have quite a bit of play in the push rod I can pull and push it at a guess 5mm back and forth so its not locked as such and I can turn it with my fingers as well should it be loose like this?

  7. Bleeding brakes again sorry

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Ok so I tried to bleed at the cylinder and I was not getting any fluid through. I rang Pastparts and they suggested the push rod maybe was not fully returning to the closed position. So I loosened of the master cylinder fixing nuts to allow the master cylinder to move forward and sure enough I can now get fluid to pump out of the master cylinder brake pipe connection. I have seen on previous posts that some people have packed out the cylinder from the servo to achieve the correct setting however they have also been slated for doing this. Looking in the haynes manual it says the push rod can be adjusted with a nut that I can't identify on the diagram and setting with lock tight. However it does say that this is only necessary if installing a new push rod. I'm at a bit of a loss on how to get over this problem properly so any advice welcome and if I need to adjust and set the nut how I find and I go about doing this please

    IMG_20200928_124422992.jpg

  11. Bleeding brakes again sorry

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Sorry to ask. I have spent the last hour or so looking through past posts but am still confused. I have just re-fitted my brake master cylinder after a rebuild by past parts. Bled the rears no problem but nothing at the front. I undone the pipe connection from the master cylinder and there is nothing coming out of the cylinder even if the pedal is depressed. I have read the other posts and it looks like I should have bench bled the master cylinder before fitting? I have now wedged the pedal to the floor and will leave over night as suggested in other posts. Is this all I can do? And is this correct though I would have thought I would have fluid coming out of the master cylinder with the pipe disconnected? Anything else I should know please? Should I take the cylinder of and bench bleed and start again? Sorry for the repeat question if I have missed the answer elsewhere.

    Regards Richard

  12. Drive Shaft inspection

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks Roger. A free lesson in engineering. Why though do they want to use an soft material like Ali? This must have less of a resistance to shear force as well? I have dug out an old torque wrench I never thought I would use but had to convert to NM (21.693087173) Should be able to get that spot on then!! 

  18. Rear view mirror fixings to windscreen frame

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks Rodger I saw these but they don't tell me what they are. Call me mean but moss want 1.20 each and then triple it for postage and add some tax and then wait a week. I have a shop down the road that sells most common UNF, UNC sold by weight and I doubt 2 screws will cost 50p and I can take straight home. Just need to know thread, length and head type

     

  21. TR2-3 Master brake clutch cylinder. New

    in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250

    Posted

    Selling for a friend that bought this some 3-4 years ago for his TR3 but turned out to be the wrong one for his car. Sat on his shelf ever since because he was to lazy to return it. He tells me he bought it from Rimmers but I don't have the receipt. Looking at the web I believe it to be part number RW3002    https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RW3002   Hes looking for £55 no sign of the adaptor Rimmers give you with it.

    Any enquires please PM me. Please though I'm just trying to do someone on here and my friend a favour I know nothing of TR2's and 3s so check out the picture and make sure its want you want. Happy to send more if required. Obviously no warranty Prefer pickup but can send at your expense. 

    TR2-3 Master clutch cylinder.jpg

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