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Richmac

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Posts posted by Richmac

  1. On 5/3/2021 at 3:38 PM, ntc said:

    Back to the question in most cases the hinges are worn out 

    How can I tell if my hinges are worn out please? How much play is acceptable and what are the symptoms of worn out hinges?

  2. I hope so Andy. I need new spire clips now though as the couple I tried to tighten gave up. Thanks for your advice much appreciated. Thank you Neil as well I would never attempt some of these jobs without the support on here

    Thanks again

    regards Richard  

  3. Success!! I had to loosen the three bolts at the bottom of the wing assessable from inside the engine bay under the inner wing hinge fixing point. I now have the 3mm each side I was after. Not bad only took me all day!! I'm worried now though that when I re-tighten them they will pull the wings back out

    IMG_20210503_170347349.jpg

  4. Thanks Andy but after removing all the wing bolts along the top, the bracket to headlight bowl and the bumper bolt I still can't get it to move dispite the slots in the wing suggesting more movement is possible.

    Richard depressed of Dunstable

  5. So another bank holiday and in my wisdom I thought I would just try and adjust the way my bonnet fits. The gaps around the bonnet are not great but it was the fact that the bonnet was rubbing at the baulk end that was bugging me most and I thought yeah easy job, I've looked at the previous posts I'll just loosen the hinge to bonnet bolts pull the bonnet 5mm forward and tighten them back up. Well now my cars in bits, bonnet off, grill of, hinges off and headlamps out on the floor!! What went wrong was with the bolts loose I still couldn't get the bonnet to move so I ended up removing them completely. I then put the bonnet where I wanted it and packed with cardboard and then tried to re-insert the bolts but as you will see from the picture my hinges no where nearly lineup with the captive nuts. (the nearside is better)

    If my hinges don't line up with the captive plate with my bonnet in the best position I am not sure what I am meant to do? I feel I am in best bodge land? My plan then is to drill out the hinge holes to the next size up as Harry above eludes to, to give me more play and if need be pack out the inner wing fixing as I note my hinge plate is about 10mm out of vertical where it fixes to the inner wing. Is this normal?  Can ask then please if anybody has been here before and can you see a flaw in my plan before I start please?

    Also now I am this far in can the wings be moved in at the front by headlights by loosening the top bolts please? I have a 7mm gap at both sides of the bonnet to wing at the battery end but at the front I have 10mm  each side? I have measured the diagonal and I have a 6mm discrepancy but I don't know where its out or what to do about it? The gaps to the doors are good so I don't want to be chasing the gaps around the car. Any help gratefully appreciated. 

    Also I note the comment about longer bolts to the hinges. Mine are all the same length apart from the short one to the side fixing. Should the hinge to bonnet fixings be different lengths?  

    IMG_20210501_150640602.jpg

  6. On 4/22/2021 at 9:01 PM, Richmac said:

    All this talk about insurers and ifs and buts sounds like scaremongering to me. Has anybody, or does anybody know of anybody, who has ever been involved in an incident where the speed rating of their tyres ever come into part of a dispute? Or has anybody ever been driving their car in a normal manner when they have suffered an incident that they suspect was caused by the lack of having 'H' rated tyres? 

    I see in the TR Action mag we have a regular two page spread from Pete Barrett our own TR Register Manager called Pete says. Perhaps Pete would like to put his take on things? I for one would be interested in hearing what 'Pete says' on this matter 

    Richard

    Just to clarify Pete Barrett TR Register Insurance manager 

  7. On 4/20/2021 at 7:08 PM, Bill944T said:

    Your insurers maybe but what about, should the worst happen, the other party that were injured involving you? Surely they would seek to not only seek recompense from your insurers but they might also seek to instigate prosecuting you for having a vehicle that in their view, was not fitted with the specified tyres? Whilst you may not be out of pocket insurance wise, when you're "gripping the bar", do you think anyone else would care to stand alongside you?

    All this talk about insurers and ifs and buts sounds like scaremongering to me. Has anybody, or does anybody know of anybody, who has ever been involved in an incident where the speed rating of their tyres ever come into part of a dispute? Or has anybody ever been driving their car in a normal manner when they have suffered an incident that they suspect was caused by the lack of having 'H' rated tyres? 

    I see in the TR Action mag we have a regular two page spread from Pete Barrett our own TR Register Manager called Pete says. Perhaps Pete would like to put his take on things? I for one would be interested in hearing what 'Pete says' on this matter 

    Richard

  8. 1 hour ago, RobH said:

    Richard is of course referring to the alphabetic ratings for economy/wet grip/noise, since Hamish mentioned the (rather low) wet-grip one for the Yokohamas in his post above. Neither the XAS nor the Vredestein Classic have those ratings quoted on that website.  

    Thanks Rob

     

  9. I still fail to understand the speed rating. From what I can make of it its about the heat generated but I noticed my brothers VW Transporter van has 'C' rated from new!!  Only 50mph? OK so he tells me its the speed limit of all commercials now but even so a van travelling up the motorway at 50mph with a ton of bricks in the back? No heat??

  10. On 2/27/2021 at 9:06 AM, saffrontr said:

    Lets not forget that the original speed rating for the USA CC and CF series was SR

    cheers

    Derek

     

    On 2/27/2021 at 7:49 PM, Bill944T said:

    Not as fast as the PI CP ones!

    Regards

    Bill 

    I must admit that if the only reason PI cars have 'H' rated tyres is the additional top speed over the CC and CF that are 'S' or 'T' rated then I tend to agree with you. However I haven't made my mind up yet. Regards Richard 

  11. Thanks for  sharing the link Stuart. Looking at 165's though its saying it doesn't have enough data and only lists Maxxis or Hankook. Hard to see what others they were tested against. My car also has 195's which I think are to wide. Seems a few people on here that fit, and are quite happy with the Vredestein. I was thinking maybe the Continental CT22 might be better though being a leading brand what do you think? Your not going down the 'H' rated then? Its a minefield when you can't tell what your getting for your  money. I don't want to pay hundreds of pounds just for a classic tread pattern thats for sure. Do you have any TR6 driving friends? What do they use?

    Regards Richard

  12. Wow Rob interesting discussion on the link you provided. So from the experts mouth we should be fitting at least H rated tyres to all our vehicles regardless. Well thats certainly changed my point of view. Thanks for posting Rob. Just what I wanted from this forum I'm a little wiser than I was yesterday. 

  13. Talking to my local tyre fitter he suggested that the speed rating was more than just 'speed' but strength in cornering at speeds of 50 mph? He also had a poor opinion of the Vredestein tyres calling them 'just a budget tyre' 

  14. Thanks Rob. I saw that in the manual but didn't know what the 'HR' stood for. Thank you John for clearing that up for me so clearly. 

    Its not about skimping on tyres. Its more about getting value for money hence the postings. I want to learn from long term owners who have driven and used various types over the years or tyre experts who know the construction or how how the rating is worked out and applied. I am trying to learn the difference, or what more I am getting for paying £200 for a Michelin XAS over paying £70 for a Continental CT22 which is the two I am edging towards. Both quality manufacturers. The difference is the speed rating 'H' 130 mph as opposed to 'T' 118 mph. 12 miles per hour difference? I am trying to learn if paying over double is good use of my limited funds. I am not skimping and will pay whats necessary but I don't want to pay whats unnecessary. At the moment my car has 'v' Rated, 149 mph budget tyres manufactured in China. No offence to the Chinese but in my opinion thats skimping by the PO. Are they really better than a quality 'T' rated tyre? I'm afraid I can't see how but hoping to be educated on here. Interestingly I rang my insurance company today and they assured me that swapping to 'T' rated tyres will not affect my policy. Can anybody offer any guidance please?

    Regards Richard

  15. I apologise for using the 'T' word as I know there are many threads on the matter and its testing the patience of some on here. However I have searched here, on Google and looked in the manuals and can't find anywhere the definitive answer to the speed rating required for TR6 tyres. Can someone please point me to where I see for sure the speed rating required? Or were the cars just originally shod with 'H' Rated boots? And would this still be applicable 50 years on? It makes a quite a difference in price and therefore choice when searching for replacements. Took car for the first essential journey yesterday as it was mild and want to make a decision on my tyres ready for spring!!! 

    Thanks in advance Richard 

  16. On 2/19/2021 at 11:24 PM, DaveN said:

    No Verdstein T-Trak 2 at about 40 quid a corner. My XKR will probably need tyres before 5 years.

    Is that on a TR6 Dave? Are they ok as that is what I'm thinking of replacing mine with?

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