[Starter motor locking the engine TR250]

Stuart,

I think you are right. However I didn't know that these existed so I filed a fraction of a mm off the centre boss on the starter endplate and all is well. The starter turns the engine so on to the next job.

Bob, I checked the teeth against the old starter and the number is OK.

Many thanks 

Eddie

[Starter motor locking the engine TR250]

Gearbox now installed and tried turning engine by hand with large spanner on crank bolt. The engine is locked and won't turn. Gearbox definitely in neutral.

Slacked off the starter bolts and engine turns. Re-tightened them and it locks up.

I can't see what would cause this. Any had a similar experience or any idea what could be catching. The starter is new with separate solenoid.

Thanks

Eddie

 

[J type gearbox in TR250]

Before refitting gearbox I checked on location of gearbox rear mount.

It is approximately 65cm from gearbox front flange.

The adapter I bought has the rear mount just over 72cm back when bolted to the chassis and there is not enough plate in front of this to drill holes in the correct location. Has anyone else had this problem?

Is the TR250 chassis different to the early TR6?

Thanks

Eddie

 

[TR250 cylinder head and manifolds]

I have acquired an inlet manifold with twin SUs, apparently better than the TR250 manifold , and tubular exhaust manifolds. I had assumed that TR6 and TR250 all had the same basic head geometry.

I now know that TR250 inlet port spacing is smaller so the inlet manifold will not fit and that tubular manifolds do not fit because they foul the inlet manifold. So if I want to use the alternative manifolds I need a different head.

I have a chance of a Triumph 2000 head. Can I use this or will the compression ratio be too high?

Are thicker head gaskets a solution if compression is too high?

I probably should stay with the stock set up but 100HP seems a bit low for 2.5L, probably less than my MG

Thanks

Eddie

 

 

[TR250 COOLING FAN]

Graham,

Thanks for the reply. Yellow one it is.

Eddie

[TR250 COOLING FAN]

I have 2 fans that came with the car, an 8 blade yellow one and a 13 blade red one, both plastic The red fan is fairly heavy due to steel centre part.

Does anyone know which is the most efficient?

Thanks

Eddie

[Saloon J type gearbox in TR250]

Peter,

Thats right. I am using the saloon output flange with holes drilled to suit the propshaft.

The TR flange won't fit the overdrive because of the splines.

Regards

Eddie

[Saloon J type gearbox in TR250]

Hi Graeme,

I will have to look at this. TR 250 looks great in blue, mine will be signal red as original.

Hi Bob,

My TR6?? output flange wouldn't fit the saloon box. To be honest I don't know where the non overdrive gearbox was from. Could be TR250 or TR6

The splines were much larger.

Thanks Eddie

[Saloon J type gearbox in TR250]

Hi,

Have had a good day.

Have drilled the flange using the TR one as a template. The bit was marginally smaller than the holes in the TR flange but 3/8 bolts just fit, almost a push fit Also found all 6  small manifold clamps which were missing, I had checked on Moss's site and they were £8 each.

Hopefully will have the car ready for MOT when the shutdown ends and I can get a UK registration.

Thanks

Eddie

 

 

[Saloon J type gearbox in TR250]

Hi,

I can answer the first part my self. Both flanges came off relatively easily but the splines are different so I can't swap them. I suppose I can drill the holes in the right position if I have a sharp enough drill.

Regards

Eddie

[Saloon J type gearbox in TR250]

Hi,

The overdrive gearbox I bought a few years ago turns out to be from  a saloon.

I can use a Dolomite sprint clutch plate for the input which should be man enough.

Is it easy to swop the output flange off from the old non overdrive gearbox to the overdrive box?

Also the gear lever is a couple of inches longer so I was going to swop them. The saloon gearbox lever is easy to take off, remove a bolt and twist the cover. The TR box has a threaded bar which needs to come out. It is very rusty, does this screw out or is it a push fit?

Many thanks

Eddie.

PS the pin holding the release fork to the cross shaft has sheared in both boxes so I need to cut the s haft and try and salvage the fork.

[TR250 starter solenoid location]

Hi Peter, Stuart,

i can see the holes, not very accessible at the moment because I have a lump of wood

supporting the rear of the engine whilst the gearbox is out.

it looks a bit close to the heater hoses but I assume it must fit.

many thanks

Eddie

[TR250 starter solenoid location]

Thanks Peter,

i will look for the holes tomorrow.

Eddie

[TR250 starter solenoid location]

I have a separate solenoid which came with the car. However I cannot find any bolt holes to fasten it down and I can't find any pictures on the internet giving the location. I am converting to rhd which may or may not affect the location.

Does anyone have a photo showing the original location?

Thanks

Eddie

[Spare Wheel]

Hi,

The AA states that the law makes an exception for temporary use spare  tyres to be used in an emergency.

Eddie

[TR6 flywheel]

Hi Mark,

Looked on Chris Witors website and no flywheel or starter but have located a 2nd hand flywheel at Revington and cheap new starter on Ebay so restoration continues.

Thanks

Eddie

[TR250 valve timing]

Hi Tom,

Using the other holes have managed to get identical readings on 11 and 12.

Ian, out of interest what book is that method in. I have the Haynes TR6 manual and the thick TR6 repair manual and they do not mention using a protractor.

Thanks

Eddie

[TR250 valve timing]

Hi ,

Have put a new timing chain on but having trouble with setting the valve timing.

I cannot see any punchmarks A & B but have two C marks.

M y first stab at lining them up and then measuring 11 and 12 gaps with no 1 at tdc firing gave large gap at 12( not measured) and no gap at 11.Moving cam gear 1 tooth anticlock gave .025 inch at 11 and .061 at 12.

Another tooth anticlock gave .062 at 11 and .010 at 12.

The middle set of reading is closest but not good.

How critical is this and will wear on engine bits give these type of readings.I have read somewhere that using the holes at 90 degrees in the cam gear can give some adjustment. Is this true?

Thanks

Eddie

 

 

[TR6 flywheel]

Tom,

The original engine number was CC/2033E. I assumed the replacement was early TR6 but could be TR250.

I bought it from Manchester, USA 4 years ago . The heritage certificate says it was shipped from Manchester UK in 1968 on the ship Manchester Skipper. I live in South Manchester.

Clearly a Manchester car.

Regards

Eddie

 

[TR6 flywheel]

John,

Thanks for looking. At least I know there are different types of fly wheel. As I said the engine is actually from an early TR6. Revington part number 148041SH appears to be for early cars, the engine number is CC4763E.

Thanks

Eddie

 

[TR6 flywheel]

John,

Don't know, what does that mean?

See photo.

I also need a starter motor if you have one.

Thanks

Eddie

 

[TR6 flywheel]

Have just removed gearbox from TR250 project and found that there is no flywheel.

Engine is not original but an early TR6 so I assume a TR6 flywheel will fit.

Does anyone have a good flywheel for sale?

Thanks

Eddie

[Tr250 fuel lines]

Peter,

Thanks for the information.

I will keep it all copper/brass to play safe.

Thanks

 

 

[Tr250 fuel lines]

I see from various suppliers that these come in several pieces. Is this for ease of fitting? I was thinking of using one from tank to pump, one from pump to carbs and one between carbs if I can get them made up.

Trying to cut costs, £100 for a fuel line seems a bit steep.

 

Eddie Trickett

[Tr250 locks]

Hi,

Thanks Roger.I guess I will have to the specific TR250/5 locks.

Graeme the boot seemed to open OK without catching but I will double check when I get it back from painters.

Thanks

Eddie