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james christie

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Posts posted by james christie

  1. Oliver, I did this job 2 or 3 years ago.  You will find the Workshop Manual very useful when doing this job. Please use a press when getting the bearings out!

    If you do a search on this Forum ‘hub bearings’ there is a lot of useful information.

    The worst part is at the end when you have to set up the 0.005 end float of the two axle shafts. I have some shims left over if you need some, just send me a PM.

    james

  2. Thanks everybody for their help, a Sidescreen man for 53 years, thanks to this forum I’ve learnt more about TR4 and 4A radiators in a morning than I have in a lifetime.

    My conclusion is that l’ll hang it all together with the set of brackets I just happen to have in a drawer that are waiting to be used fit my own Revotec to my 3A.

    I’ll order a replacement set through Moss in Paris - it’s just too much hassle to buy anything in UK nowadays.

    james

  3. Thanks the photos are a great help. They’ll be an even greater help when I get the rad back.

    Are the fixing brackets further apart on the 4A?

    I can’t see the top brace brackets on the 4A - are there any?

    james

  4. I’m currently fettling the radiator on a TR4, CT11940 (no neck or starter handle hole with overflow bottle fixed to the side frame of the rad)  which had a Revotec fan fitted using pull through plastic pins.

    I’d like to replace these with brackets when I get the radiator back from the rad man. It would seem from the online Moss catalogue that these are different from 4 to 4A. 
    I suspect that this is not the original rad, can somebody enlighten me on the distinguishing features between a 4 and a 4A item, please?

    For my own intellectual enlightenment will a set of Sidescreen brackets work ? I just happen to have some available immediately.

    james

  5. I have a very old Kenlowe pusher fan whichwas supplied with a foam insert with a groove for the sensor fitted in the top hose.

    After persistent leaks I went over to the Otter switch in the SS pipe, which will be used when I get around to fitting my Revotec

    The Kenlowe override switch is something very complicated. If anybody needs a circuit diagram from Kenlowe, I have it somewhere

    james

  6. Hi Oliver

    4lb radiator cap is fine. The thermostat should open at 82C whether TR2 or TR4

    Fill the radiator up to about 1cm of liquid in the expansion tank - no point in any more it will just be spat out with the expansion when hot.

    You say you have an original TR2 radiator this will be easily sufficient, particularly with the TR2 front as it naturally directs air through the rad. Those of us with 3As must fit the cardboard cowl to ensure good airflow  or things can get a bit hot.

    BUT you can gain a lot more cooling by the suppression of the starting handle hole - 15% more I believe. 

    I have a similiar setup to you on my 3A.  4A engine, HS6 carburettors, 4 branch exhaust manifold, full radiator with no starter handle hole and an electric fan - no mechanical fan.

    I clean out the waterways thoroughly every two years when I change the antifreeze.

    james

     

     

  7. My sympathy with your plight, Andy.

    About a month ago I finally resigned myself to sorting out intermittent overdrive operation and narrowed it down to what I thought was an electrical problem at the solenoid.
    However I do object to the hassle of removing the tunnel cover for such a small job - even if I have fitted Rivnuts.

    So I set too with a saw and cut a neat (well, I think it’s neat) access panel in the cover in the right place and replaced it an aluminium plate using self tappers and some some non setting mastic to ensure it is watertight.

    Wonderful result. I now almost look forward to the next solenoid problem !

    Oh and the solenoid problem was the rubber boot dissolving in a minor oil leak and crumpling up. A cinch to replace now.

    james

  8. 2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    Excellent items   I have them fitted in the stop tail lamps of my car.    

    +1. And I have them also in the side and indicator lights fore and aft.

    But not yet gone to LED headlights as it seems more complicated and I very rarely drive at night.

    james

  9. 1 hour ago, Dave McDonald said:

    Hope that makes sense. 

    Indeed it does!

    I have owned and fettled TRs for 53 years and learn more every day, thanks to this forum and of course Pete Wigglesworth.

    The story of this caliper business began because my son in law acquired a late 3A in many, many boxes. Included was a pair of brand new C (as per Moss) calipers plus amongst many other non relevant things two new virginal 5 hole disks probably from a Healey 3000/MGC - anybody interested?

    Initially my son in law took a fancy to fitting these new calipers but we have discovered that life isn’t that simple as


    1] The mounting plates are different

    2]3A disks are too big

    3]According to Pete Wigglesworth the bolt shanks that fix the brackets are of differing diameters even if the threads are the same

    4]Not a drama cost wise, but the brake pads are different

    5]Thanks to Dave Mc D, I learn now that the dust shields are different. (I am running my 3A without them at the moment as, somehow, one got mangled up)

    I think life will be simpler if we stay with the original arrangements!!

    As Fagan said , I think I’ll go and think it out again!
     

    james

     

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