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james christie

TR Register Members
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Everything posted by james christie

  1. Agree with the above observations I see a classic stripping of assets on the horizon. The baying of retirement funds for high return dividends will be heard until only a shell is left. james
  2. Ah! Ah! I’m talking about a normally constituted TR3A. james
  3. My experience allows me to disagree - if you turn the adapter plate through 180°! The nut and bolt become as accessible as on the original starter. How is it that you can’t get a spanner on both ends ? james
  4. Maybe we should all fit T2000 boxes I don’t understand why folks prefer to butcher their gearbox covers rather than use a simple mechanical solution of turning the adapter plate through 180° james
  5. If you do go for a new high torque starter motor, turn the adapter plate through 180°. The fixed stud, which most of the manufacturers insist on fitting, will then be at the bottom and life will become easier. I have never understood why they put it at the top where it is virtually impossible to fit, let alone turn the nut. I must suppose that none of the suppliers have ever tried to fit one of these excellent mods to a sidescreen car Rant over!! james
  6. This (expensive?) stuff gets pushed at us every now and then. I don’t understand enough about it to call it snake oil, but …….. What’s wrong with a glycol based coolant changed every 2 years or so (as suggested above). It has done me well for well over 50 years james
  7. They need a bit of love and care from time to time james
  8. I think it is a rather rare 3A frame. They have a specific tenax fastner. I had one on my 3A fifty years ago but swapped it for a chrome one for an unremembered reason. I believe the tenax fastener is no longer available james
  9. I thought you were asking about item 40!! james
  10. Ah yes, I forgot that bit, so it must come out easily james
  11. If I remember rightly it's an ´interference fit' but with something (string, tape etc) wrapped around it to make it leak proof. Usually not very tight. There is no pressure behind it of course. It may have been glued in by a PO. T'any rate, try a bit of wiggling back and forth to break the seal. It can be a tight fit with the engine in situ. james
  12. I have the same arrangement on my 3A but with the reel fitted higher on the inner wing as I have the rear seat plus the 30cm (or so) stalk fitted to the transmission tunnel. As recommended by Mr Wigglesworth. Excellent solution! james
  13. First find a tap that doesn’t leak! james
  14. Plus change the original rear mirror for something with non razor like edges! +1 ! james
  15. Those of us who have had TRs for longer than a very long time will remember that we had an early member Pete Buckles, by name who alas left us for ever in December. Pete kept us supplied with (mostly) quality parts in the early days. Initially some of us helped finance him - Rebuild on a budget, loans from the Spares Development Fund until he and Pete Cox were able to stand on their own feet. Others with a better memory and more accurate descriptions of the ‘arrangements’ may wish to add to the above. But at the time it was virtually the Register’s own source of parts. Suffice to say
  16. I’m trying hard to enthuse folks around here to collectivelybuy a drum of 60litres. Makes a helluva difference in the price per litre. Of course nobody can agree on the brand to buy, so I’ve got nowhere. Too bad, I’ve just done my annual oil change james
  17. I fail to understand that kind of commercial policy. The customer base is very specific - it’s the one that wants Zddp! It seems strange to withhold what the customer is looking for!! james
  18. For my 3A I’ve been using Motul ‘After 1950’ for the last two annual oil changes and thus about 3500km. So far so good, good oil pressure hot and cold. Good local availability in 2 litre tins james
  19. Start by checking the state of the filter where the water arrives. It may begunged up. Taking the pump apart isn’t a big deal.However the pump components wear rather more quickly than they should, particularly if the water is not too clean. If this is the case the reduction in pressure at the business end is slow but constant. My betting is on the filter being clogged up. james
  20. I get on well with re-using window cleaner trigger operated aerosol bottles. - I like ‘em cos they’re free. james
  21. I have experienced this a couple of times after a winter break. I have managed to remediate the under reading by adding some coolant -even a lot of coolant - and then let the car get really hot on tick over with the front end well raised. My deduction is that an airlock forms in the bulb/ thermostat housing. james
  22. Try Betaset in Paris betaset.fr They have 3 in stock! james
  23. I am not at home at the moment so can't take a photo but I'm almost certain they are repros james
  24. The splined arms have a little spring which is supposed to clip under the splined part on the shaft. If the splines on the arms and the spindle seem to work fairly efficiently - although they do wear - this is not the case of the clip which is useless and barely holds the two together. I plan a belt and braces operation using blue Loctite to hold the splined buts together together with the Pete Wigglesworth wiring arrangement to stop them flying apart at the wrong moment. I should then be prepared for summer james
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