Jump to content

james christie

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    1,197
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by james christie

  1. Yes, a lot of talk and little action. I don’t believe for one minute that a furrin registered car will be stopped, let alone prosecuted.

    A quirk of French legislation is that my 1959 3A has a normal French log book. It is thus obliged to be tested every 2 years, like any vehicule over 4 years old - of which, incidentally, I heartily approve. In addition it will theoretically not be exempt from any of this anti-pollution nonsense, when it finally comes into force.

    A look at Alan’s link will show just what a mess this legislation is. Politicians trying to score green points from their electorate.


    james

  2. This is an attempt to answer Lebro’s question about removing the Revotec fan without removing the front apron - when a welded (Revington) R&P steering is fitted.

    We already know that at installation, the Revotec lower brackets can only be fitted after removing the rad.

    I’ve got the front end of my 3A on axle stands at the moment, so went underneath with the fan to have a looksee.

    First the bottom hose will have to be removed and possibly the rad drain tap to give some operating room. On mine the distance between the R&P cross tube and the radiator matrix is 60mm so with the thickness of the Revotec fan at 50mm, that dimension is OK.

    However width-wise, things are going to be tight, even very tight. The narrowest distance between the vertical R&P brackets, that are welded to the chassis is 295mm.

    The overall width of the fan is 298mm, but this is the thin bracket that supports the fan which is itself ‘only’ 293mm. There are however some slots where it may be possible to pass the support bracket upwards.

    So the answer is ‘maybe’ it can be done - or maybe not…….:wacko:

    I expect these dimensions will vary from car to car.

    james

  3. What a good article on refreshing brakes. This is a topical subject for me - I’m doing it right now, on my 3A for much the same reason as Andrew.

    I needed 8 bars/ 110psi of pressure to blow the pistons out of the calipers though, fortunately a bit less to get the pistons out of the master cylinders. No way would a bicycle pump have worked! The 4 caliper pistons as well as the seals need changing to raise my comfort level and it was a bit dismaying to see the state of the seals on the clutch mc, the brake mc was OK.

    I too use silicon brake fluid, and am well satisfied with it, but it is indeed worth checking the state of corrosion from time to time.

    james

  4. The answers:

    Lebro.

    For the moment, It is only the fitting of the lower bracket itself, that is a problem. The fan can be removed later from the bracket if necessary. It’s only held by two nuts and bolts at top and bottom. However know that for sure you can’t it out from above, does the gubbins of the R&P allow you to get it out from below?

    Peter.
    I like the simple life and don’t have the mental ability to start modifying and making brackets. A further complication is that for ease of fitting set screws from below with limited access and arthiritic fingers, I have fitted a slightly longer set screw through the welded nut on the bracket as I find it easier to fit washers and nut from below.

    Stuart

    Agreed, I wouldn’t even begin to try!!

    james

  5. Just to add a few jewels of wisdom from experience. It is most definitely not TR weather here in Brittany at the moment, so I set out to fit my Revotec fan.

    The top bracket was a doddle, then I set to with the bottom one. The usual hassle of removing the radiator guard was encountered but out it came giving slightly better access to the set screws that fix the two rad brackets to the chassis. Theoretically these set screws only need slackening off in order to slide in the legs of the bottom Revotec bracket. 
    But here, all activity and ambition was halted. I have Rack and Pinion steering fitted with brackets welded to the chassis. There is thus no way, but no way, that this bottom bracket can be fitted without removing the radiator first.

    Soooh, the Revotec is back in its box under the bench awaiting a supplementary reason to remove the front apron and radiator. Fortunately the old Kenlowe still functions perfectly well. It’s just not very pretty.

    Many thanks for everybody’s contribution.

    james

  6. Well done, always satisfying to get the job done well!

    As an aside for those of us with left hookers and overdrive, I have found the 96 in. drive cable has an awful lot of slack once fitted, not to mention a tortuous route. I’ve fitted a 84in. cable routed underneath the rhs carpet and then over the gearbox cover and back to the speedo. A bit neater and a bit less gubbins apparent in the engine compartment.

    james

     

  7. I’m into a serious market study on these lifts and I’m about to pull the trigger, so I have been following these exchanges very closely.

    John, why do you lower your vehicle onto axle stands rather than lift it on the rubber pads on cross pieces between the ramps? I would have thought that you lose much of the benefit of the very useful lifting height.

    I’ve been faffing around for over a month now and it is Twin Busch S3 10E that currently has my attention. I will use crosspieces to lift my 3A on the chassis. Price here without delivery is about 2300€ with the mobility kit, although it is my intention to sink it into the garage floor ultimately as per Mickey’s arrangement - I’m very certain it will cost more than £150 though!!

    james

  8. 6 hours ago, Crawfie said:

    My best New Year ( so I’ve been told !!!)

    was in the land of the haggis and devils in skirts .I can’t remember a bloody thing 

    Even your Boris Johnston knows the best parties are the ones you can’t remember…

    james

  9. All these high torque starter motors seem to have this problem. Clearly the designers have never fitted one to a TR with bodywork in place.

    I have a Powerlite unit and with their agreement, on the bench, turned the adaptor plate through 180° so that the stud was at the bottom. Life becomes a lot easier. First it’s a doddle to tighten the nut on the fixed stud - now at the bottom - and with an assistant holding a spanner on the bolt - now at the top - you can get at the nut from underneath using a ratchet with a few extensions and a wobbly

    No need for any destructive work

    james

  10. I did suggest a couple of years ago that the SDF look at having these remanufactured - none of the repair kits, I ever purchased, included it. All well and good if it is available again. Please keep us informed of how it looks. From memory, the original has less rounded edges than the one illustrated.

    Not wishing to steal this thread but while we are on the subject of pumps. Some years ago there were some main pump diaphragms being sold that were mounted upside down. I’ve got a load in one of my boxes, some red, some black. Can someone help me to identify which are the right ones.

    james

  11. Yer being robbed!

    Fuel is currently subsidised by 10 centimes here (it was 30) paid for by tax on super profits of the fuel companies

    Local prices here in our village, they are less closer to the refineries:

    Diesel 1.739 € = about £1.50

    Premium 95 1.669 € = £1.44

    Super 98. 1.749 € =  £1.51

    james

     

  12. A minor knock, caused by an eejit backing into the front right hand side of my 3A, is causing bit of head scratching by the bodyshop doing the repair.

    The bumper supports that go through the grille seem to be a bit high and are making difficulties for the fitting of the grille. 
    Could some kind soul with a 3A brave the cold and measure the distance between the floor and the centre of the bolt that fixes the bumper support to the chrome overrider.

    My anticipated grateful thanks

    james

  13. 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

    many years Cox and Buckles reproduced these as a 3 piece kit with ‘smash…’

    I fitted one of these ducts bought from Cox & Buckles, already in signal red, when I rebuilt my 3A in the late seventies. It’s still doing service today and I’ve never repainted it. I conclude that the process used is pretty efficient!

    james

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.