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Paul Drescher

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  1. Thanks Rob, very much apreciated, I will source a new altanator. Regards Paul
  2. Hi Latest update- 1.Removed the alternator connector, remove the 3 wires from the plastic connecting block, removed the brown/yellow wire that goes to the alternator warning lamp, I check continuity and no issues, not going to earth but straight from the alternator to the lamp holder good circuit 2. Removed the small brown cable from the Alt connector, disconnected it from the battery positive cable connecting block, again not earthing and good circuit 3. Removed the large brown charging cable from Alt to battery positive connection block, no issues again. 4.Started the eng
  3. Hi Rob Thanks for the reply. I bought a brand new postive battery cable from Rimmers, it has the in line conector for the 3 brown (N) wires so its just plug in the wires from the harnes into tye connector, but as you suggest it feels like there is a short when the engine is "running" nothing happens when the engine is not operating and the battery cables connected. Deffinately struggling with this issue and really dont want to ruin the new harness. What I have noticed when doing the rebuild the original brown charging cable from the alternator had been chopped off and repalecd with a hea
  4. Hi just realised that the ignition switch the green cable is on terminal 5 not 4 but it connects to the WP wire on the connecting block see photo
  5. Hi Folks, I'm on the final stage of a nut and bolt resto, having converted LHD to RHD . Today I fitted a new wiring harness supplied by Moss. Fitted with no real issues but I had to change the ignition switch from the old prong style to a new Lucas with a connecting plug. When I started the engine very quickly the charging cable from the alternator started to smoke, I immediately stopped the engine. The alternator had been away for overhaul. When checking all connection's I noticed the connecting block for the ignition to wiring harness the wires appear to connect incorrectly, as if either Mos
  6. Dave Big thanks for the promt reply, when looking at the ignition connections the loom looks that its not correct, so tonight more research suggests I should have bought the loom for the CR model not CP. The CR is from 1973 to 1976 my car USA September 72 production but a 1973 model hence the confusion. I have removed the new harness and cleaned and will send back to Moss for a refund/exchange, hopefully the craful clean and repack will secure the refund/exchange their catalouge is very poor with regards to wiring harness. Lesson learned I should have gone direct to Autosparks which I did
  7. Hi Folks I have carried out a LHD USA Spec TR6 to RHD conversion and I am now installing a new wiring loom that I purchased from Moss motors, the original commissioning number is CF269U September 1972 but model year 1973 according to the vehicle identification. Prior to buying the RHD harness from Moss I reviewed wiring diagrams on the "advancedautowire" website and chose the 1973 diagram as this had the ignition switch with 6 tabs as per original wire harness that I removed. Moss supply various options for RHD so I chose part TP57C for TR6 CP50001 to CR1. During the installation of
  8. Thanks Mike, yes I think i will go down the same path and fit P6 Pirelli, like yourself millage will be limited and dry weather use mainly.
  9. Hi Roger Thanks for the prompt reply, did you use a contact adhesive or a silicone type of sealant that will "go off" slower? I have some Gorilla adhesive cartridge type and according to the instructions goes off after 10 minutes or so. Thanks and Regards Rich
  10. Hi Folks Resto 80% complete, my standard steel wheels have returned from the paint shop and are ready for tyres. My car is a late 72 LHD conversion. I've read some info regarding suitable tyres, my initial thoughts is to go for 195/65/15 but 205/65/15 will give a nice look regards stance. I'm not going for a concourse car so I don't need to keep with the original set up. Apricate feed back of anyone that has tried the slightly wider tyre and what impact it has on the weight of steering, issues with contact with body etc. Kind Regards Rich
  11. Hi Folks Bought a new dash top crash pad and tried to install and failed. I used trim/carpet contact adhesive but by the nature of the name it sticks at soon as it touches the opposite surface which has proved to be a nightmare as I couldn't get the vent holes and bolt holes to align prior to contact but the top and front had already made contact. 2 hours later after removing all the adhesive I'm ready to go again but I need a adhesive that doesn't instantly set so I have time to position correctly. Has anyone suggestions of a suitable "glue" that will be suitable that will allow sum move
  12. Hi Andy I see that you live in Wakefield, who did you use for the balancing and any engine work? Regards Rich
  13. Hi All Big thanks for the feed back to date, I've realised that I'm responding with my usual middle name which is Richard! Yes my first name is Paul so anything official I use this, so I apologise for any confusion, my Mother has so much to answer for she even changed my twin brothers name after 1 year again from first to middle. I wont give her a hard time now as she is heading towards her late 80s ! Regards Paul Richard Drescher
  14. Andy Thanks for the reply, like you i want a car with some gusto but not a street racer, must be reliable but fun and a little bit of z. Rich
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