Jump to content

Paul Drescher

Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Paul Drescher

  1. Thanks Rob, very much apreciated, I will source a new altanator. Regards Paul
  2. Hi Latest update- 1.Removed the alternator connector, remove the 3 wires from the plastic connecting block, removed the brown/yellow wire that goes to the alternator warning lamp, I check continuity and no issues, not going to earth but straight from the alternator to the lamp holder good circuit 2. Removed the small brown cable from the Alt connector, disconnected it from the battery positive cable connecting block, again not earthing and good circuit 3. Removed the large brown charging cable from Alt to battery positive connection block, no issues again. 4.Started the eng
  3. Hi Rob Thanks for the reply. I bought a brand new postive battery cable from Rimmers, it has the in line conector for the 3 brown (N) wires so its just plug in the wires from the harnes into tye connector, but as you suggest it feels like there is a short when the engine is "running" nothing happens when the engine is not operating and the battery cables connected. Deffinately struggling with this issue and really dont want to ruin the new harness. What I have noticed when doing the rebuild the original brown charging cable from the alternator had been chopped off and repalecd with a hea
  4. Hi just realised that the ignition switch the green cable is on terminal 5 not 4 but it connects to the WP wire on the connecting block see photo
  5. Hi Folks, I'm on the final stage of a nut and bolt resto, having converted LHD to RHD . Today I fitted a new wiring harness supplied by Moss. Fitted with no real issues but I had to change the ignition switch from the old prong style to a new Lucas with a connecting plug. When I started the engine very quickly the charging cable from the alternator started to smoke, I immediately stopped the engine. The alternator had been away for overhaul. When checking all connection's I noticed the connecting block for the ignition to wiring harness the wires appear to connect incorrectly, as if either Mos
  6. Dave Big thanks for the promt reply, when looking at the ignition connections the loom looks that its not correct, so tonight more research suggests I should have bought the loom for the CR model not CP. The CR is from 1973 to 1976 my car USA September 72 production but a 1973 model hence the confusion. I have removed the new harness and cleaned and will send back to Moss for a refund/exchange, hopefully the craful clean and repack will secure the refund/exchange their catalouge is very poor with regards to wiring harness. Lesson learned I should have gone direct to Autosparks which I did
  7. Hi Folks I have carried out a LHD USA Spec TR6 to RHD conversion and I am now installing a new wiring loom that I purchased from Moss motors, the original commissioning number is CF269U September 1972 but model year 1973 according to the vehicle identification. Prior to buying the RHD harness from Moss I reviewed wiring diagrams on the "advancedautowire" website and chose the 1973 diagram as this had the ignition switch with 6 tabs as per original wire harness that I removed. Moss supply various options for RHD so I chose part TP57C for TR6 CP50001 to CR1. During the installation of
  8. Thanks Mike, yes I think i will go down the same path and fit P6 Pirelli, like yourself millage will be limited and dry weather use mainly.
  9. Hi Roger Thanks for the prompt reply, did you use a contact adhesive or a silicone type of sealant that will "go off" slower? I have some Gorilla adhesive cartridge type and according to the instructions goes off after 10 minutes or so. Thanks and Regards Rich
  10. Hi Folks Resto 80% complete, my standard steel wheels have returned from the paint shop and are ready for tyres. My car is a late 72 LHD conversion. I've read some info regarding suitable tyres, my initial thoughts is to go for 195/65/15 but 205/65/15 will give a nice look regards stance. I'm not going for a concourse car so I don't need to keep with the original set up. Apricate feed back of anyone that has tried the slightly wider tyre and what impact it has on the weight of steering, issues with contact with body etc. Kind Regards Rich
  11. Hi Folks Bought a new dash top crash pad and tried to install and failed. I used trim/carpet contact adhesive but by the nature of the name it sticks at soon as it touches the opposite surface which has proved to be a nightmare as I couldn't get the vent holes and bolt holes to align prior to contact but the top and front had already made contact. 2 hours later after removing all the adhesive I'm ready to go again but I need a adhesive that doesn't instantly set so I have time to position correctly. Has anyone suggestions of a suitable "glue" that will be suitable that will allow sum move
  12. Hi Andy I see that you live in Wakefield, who did you use for the balancing and any engine work? Regards Rich
  13. Hi All Big thanks for the feed back to date, I've realised that I'm responding with my usual middle name which is Richard! Yes my first name is Paul so anything official I use this, so I apologise for any confusion, my Mother has so much to answer for she even changed my twin brothers name after 1 year again from first to middle. I wont give her a hard time now as she is heading towards her late 80s ! Regards Paul Richard Drescher
  14. Andy Thanks for the reply, like you i want a car with some gusto but not a street racer, must be reliable but fun and a little bit of z. Rich
  15. Hi Ian Thanks for the reply, I've gone for a Standard road set up, replaced all suspension/steering bushes (blue) overhauled the original rear shock dampeners, fitted new road springs on all four corners, new crossed drilled discs front and new pistons/seals etc on the rear. The car will be for a Sunday lively drive definitely no racing, just good fun with a bit of Zip Best Regards Rich
  16. Hi Tim Thanks for the prompt reply, yes i want a nice sound as all us petrol heads do, come the day of electric I will hopefully be in a cask! Regarding driving style, no huge trips across Europe, just local runs around Gods Country Yorkshire, with the capability of zipping past the Sunday driver . Rich
  17. Matt great feed back, thanks. I removed the Cam today and all looks good regarding wear/marks is the line boring a common mods and something I need to do even if everything looks good? Who did you use for balancing and chem clean of the block?? Rich
  18. Hi John Yep balancing appears to be a good idea while the engine is in bits, how expensive did you find it?
  19. Great feed back thanks 1. Ribbed block ? i presume engine block any pictures of what i need to look for? 2. Pistons look in great original condition with a few tiny markings so I'm going to measure and if OK just replace all piston rings 3. Now definitely considering balancing, please excuse my ignorance but how do you balance piston rods and pistons, i understand crank assembly as this could be put in a balance machine as a unit but rods and and pistons how do this work? 4. Removed Cam followers today, look perfect, if i get a new cam do i have to buy the followers to mat
  20. Hi John TESCO do a 99 octane much cheaper, our local Rally Drivers fill their cans at the local TESCO'sI take my 370Z their for a monthly fill up. What advantage will CR 10.5 would be compared to 9.5 ? could this compromise any future head gasket leaks that cold require head re-skim? Rich
  21. Hi George Thanks for the reply, had some great feed back, CR 9.5 appears to be suitable for what I require as suggested the cam needs to compliment the head changes, any recommendations for cylinder head work?
  22. Hi Colin Thanks for the great feed back, I'm planning what you have recommended possibly stick with the SU carbs and maybe change out to Webbers 3 off at a later date. I've had numerous questions about driving style/need. I believe i want a good noise, some grunt to overtake on a a class road, and fun on my local country lanes but no drag racing. Did you do any crank/flywheel balancing? who did your head work and what CR did you go for?? Regards Rich
  23. Hi All I have a September 1972 US Spec TR6 which I have been restoring for the past year, chassis refurb complete, all running gear replaced, diff and gearbox rebuilt, LHD to LHD complete, body is waiting to go off to be painted so I'm now at the point of totally dismantling the engine for inspection and rebuild. I want to improve the HP of the engine to about 140 but without spending a ridicules sum of money. I have come across some old threads but at times the topic becomes embroiled with with technical jostling between individuals. So I would like feed back on the following improvemen
  24. Hi I'm on the final stages of rebuilding my TR6 4 speed gearbox, when rebuilding the top cover selector system I have found some damage to the 1st and 2nd selector, attached are photos of the 1st and 2nd selector along with one of the reverse selector which is in good order. As these parts are no longer available I'm considering tig weld overlay and then machine back to original dimensions, but I have noticed that the reverse selector has machined leading edges but the 1st/2nd dose not, can anyone advise if that how it should be or has a machining step been missed when originally manufac
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.