Mk2 Chopper
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Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper
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It will still move the base plate inside the distributor, so I'm not sure why he's saying that?
If you find your mark on the pulley with your strobe light, you should be able to confirm the timing moves with the vernier adjustment. That way you can set it in the middle, time the distributor with the strobe, then make the final adjustments with the thumb screw upon testing (driving).
Gareth
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Have you tried turning the engine over with the injectors removed and see if they spray straight away or are taking time to fill back up?
A couple of other thing I didn't see was checking the tappets/ valve clearances and the throttle plates/sync. It's critical on a PI to set these both up as changes in vacuum at idle will change the mixture.
I would have to agree that apart from that you've done everything else to resolve, and really it's only the MU left to look at should those couple of checks not prove to make any difference.
Gareth
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I took my '6 out this afternoon, but didn't see any nice places to take pictures of both it or the scenery, must try harder.
The area you went to looks amazing.
Gareth
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There are two types, one with and one without the tip.
I mostly never pull on the tip to bleed, usually holding it upright and gently tapping the side of it works.
Gareth
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The door glass can be adjusted to make it go higher, there is a stop bracket that can be moved. You'd need to take the door panel off to get to it.
Gareth
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1 hour ago, Mike Heelis said:
Hi Andy,
Thanks for your swift reply. My understanding is that there is no high flow return from the MU to the tank as the outlet is in the drive from distributor cavity. When I disconnect that return line at the tank there is very little fuel in the line. Also it is very small bore. Perhaps I am wrong. I have fitted a cooler of sorts in the Malpassi to tank return line (see pic). Trouble is that there is no air flow in the boot to act on the return pipe. I am running a fuel pump relay and have upgraded the wiring - good point though.
You are correct about the over fueling return line it is very low pressure.
You are also trying to do the right thing by cooling the PVR return line, as this has been warmed up by the pump and goes straight back into the tank. I too find it odd that with the pump mounted outside and good electrical power your pump is still running very hot and causing this issue. Have you actually checked the amount of amps it's using?
I guess you could route the PVR return line outside and try a method to cool it before it goes back into the tank.
Gareth
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Unfortunately I'm not near you. I totally get what your saying about wanting to see it not just read about it, and there's nothing like seeing it to understand how it works.
Basically there are three areas that make up the timing (or correct angle of all the drives). You have the distributor drive shaft, the MU drive shaft and the MU rotor.
So taking each one separately, first you have the distributor drive shaft, you want this when fully dropped in to be at the correct angle that the distributor rotor arm points to no.1 as it did before you removed it. As the gear is helical as it drops down it turns as it engages. So it's all down to deciding how much pre angle you need so that as it turns when it drops in that it arrives at that correct angle.
Next after the pedestal is installed, you can push the MU drive shaft in, again being helical it turns as it engages the gears. So it's a case again of setting an amount of pre angle so that as it's pushed in and turns, it arrives at the correct position.
Finally the MU rotor is turned to line up with the MU drive shaft (at 90 degrees so the dog drive coupling fits) , and usually you observe down the port of no. 6 to pre set the MU by seeing the crescent shape of the port partially open.
So it's not inherently difficult, just a few angles to correctly line up, doing one at a time until the whole sequence is correct.
Hope this helps?
Gareth
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I use the classic 001 in 165/80 15H, looks the part and also feels good in use.
Gareth
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Glad your seemed to have found the idle issue.
As for the noise, I'm inclined to think it would be the clutch release bearing, but from your description perhaps not? What happens when you dip the clutch when you hear it?
Have you checked the oil level in the gear box?
Gareth
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And you've checked your valve adjustments are correct by using a feeler gauge at the tappets? Otherwise your plan to have the engine checked and a possible MU overhaul might sort things out, and you can live with the issues for now?
Gareth
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The throttle plates on the three bodies need to be practically near enough fully closed when at idle. Take the plenum off and carefully look at the plates, do they look fully closed? Can you gently push one or any of them to close further?
Ideally to set up the throttle bodies/ plates you need a balancing tool that will measure the flow and you then adjust the linkage to set them as close as possible to each other.
As for as the vacuum, this is highest when the plates are closed. The brake booster or servo is the large round chamber attached to the brake master cylinder. It uses vacuum to operate from the intake, so if you remove the pipe from the servo you can put a vacuum gauge on it to see what levels you get and if you push on the plates to close them the reading will go up a bit.
Gareth
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You might have a vacuum leak around the throttle bodies, injector o rings, the balance pipes or the vacuum pipe to the MU causing different idle speeds.
Have you checked the throttle linkage is smooth and returning properly? Are the three throttle bodies balanced? Is the over rich lever on the MU set correctly and fully returned when engine is warm? Are you saying you've turned the three screws on the MU? Anti clockwise would lean it up, but it's not ideal trying to guess where it should be. Lastly if you take the vacuum pipe off the throttle body and suck it, then put your tongue to block the pipe you should feel pressure, if not the diaphragm could be leaking, which will cause an over rich condition. Check your plugs to tell how its running.
Lastly a lot of symptoms which appear to be the MU are ignition related. It's easier and cheaper to replace, plugs, leads, points, rotor arm (must be red distributor dr one), cap and coil. Check timing, valve clearance etc.
Gareth
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I think it's a very comfortable seat on a long journey. I do get a lot of back ache generally, so find them a relief when I've sat in them so long.
Could be down to one size (albeit adjustable) doesn't fit all?
Gareth
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I had a set of green ones made up by Powerspark. They were very helpful with good communication.
Gareth.
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17 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:
Ideal if you want to check if your oil pressure gauge connection is weeping as well.
Just removed my oil gauge to fit a missing leather washer, (no leak before but I thought I should). Easiest way, as you point out was to go in through the ashtray, so that's a great tip.
Gareth
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1 hour ago, Ricks green TR6 said:
Not had the chance to go to one yet but I do get the email reminders. I was behind a GT6 with full stainless and it sounded phenomenal! That’s what made me decide. I had always been a champion for completely standard up to that point.
I've seen it said that the standard mild steel exhaust gives the best sound, but as so few have them fitted, I don't think I've actually ever heard one. It's one of the few things I've not returned to completely standard, simply because I want it to last.
Gareth
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Do you go to your local TR Register meet? Maybe you can see and hear a few different systems there?
Gareth
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57 minutes ago, Ricks green TR6 said:
Thanks Gareth,
did you fit since owning and if so did you notice improvements in performance?
I was told that the manifold joins are quite high which could have an impact on performance over longer tubes.
Hi Rick,
It originally had a 'wheel barrow' type when I bought the car. I never cared for the look of it, plus the clearance at the rear would catch on speed humps!
It already had a stainless manifold, though not as good as the phoenix. So I bought the phoenix single pipe big bore system plus their Y adapter and modified the down pipe to Y area to get it to fit to the existing manifold.
Loads more clearance at the rear, plus the nice twin tail pipes in polished stainless. It sounds great to me, though I think passers-by get the best of the sound
. As for performance, I don't think there was any over the system that was already fitted, which may of course be down to the manifold anyhow.
Gareth
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I'm using a phoenix big bore stainless, sounds great, still looks fairly standard from the rear.
That's my recommendation.
Gareth
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It should be obvious if it suddenly developed. I would have said the rubber pipe over the rear wheel, but you haven't seen any fuel, unless it's evaporated before you noticed. Otherwise it'll be a pipe/joint near the pump.
Gareth
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Check the clearance at the rear wheel arch before trying, I think some have flattened the arch a little to gain some extra space.
Gareth
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I'm glad you got a good experience, maybe he's improved and his reputation will grow.
Gareth
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Do some Google research before you use him.
Gareth
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Quite hard to hear for me, but I recently discovered I had the wrong points cam hook fitted, a CP should have a 7° one, I had a 16° fitted! So might be worth taking the base plate out of the distributor to confirm you have the correct one, as it'll over advance and cause the tinkling/ pinking sound.
Gareth
Volvo Servo Upgrade
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Are you sure there is enough clearance between the servo push rod and the mc? A bit of a pain but can you go back to the original servo to test, this would confirm the mc's are OK, and that it's something to do with the fit of the servo.
Gareth