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Mk2 Chopper

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Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper

  1. Engine cut-outs

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    1 hour ago, RobH said:

    It is difficult to envisage a fault where the coil fails completely when hot but works again when cool.  There isn't much to go wrong in a coil and failure modes are likely to be bad connections/broken wires internally, or failure of wire insulation -  both of which are usually permanent once they happen.  Either will be the result of cheap materials and poor construction.  I'm not saying it isn't the coil at fault but will be somewhat surprised if it is. 

    The oil in a coil is there to conduct heat out to the case where it can be dissipated. A resin-insulated canned coil is likely to run hotter internally because the resin will have a worse thermal conductance than the oil but the coil will probably be constructed from better modern materials more capable of withstanding the heat.  The resin will also hold everything in position and not allow vibration. 

    Does your car have electronic ignition?  If so it is much more likely to be the source of this problem since electronics can readily stop working when hot but recover when cooler.  

    Totally get what your saying, and yet I've experienced this myself. I was lucky to be right by a petrol station. I took the boiling hot coil off and dunked it in a bucket of sand at the pump, soon after it had cooled off I refitted and the car fired right up. I think the oil had been leaking out. I replaced it and it's been fine since. 

    Gareth

  2. Newbie to the ‘6 forum.

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Welcome to the '6 forum. Lots of good advice and resource here. 

    I like a car that's basically mechanically sounds with a some cosmetic things (plus no doubt mechanical items once you use it) required to bring it up to the next level.

    The dashboard is a CP version, with the oblong wiper and washer switches, but it could have been fitted at any time over the last 50 years. Once you determine what version you have and which dash you want you'll be ready to make a new one. 

    Good luck and enjoy.

    Gareth

  6. Door gap pondering!

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by Mk2 Chopper

    11 minutes ago, nigelcurry said:

    Hi all

    after considerable thought and pestering you guys AGAIN,I am left wondering about this seemingly impossible question of perfect door gaps and I am coming around to the thoughts that maybe this question when directed at the tr6 may be just part of what a car coming from the troubled car industry of the seventies was all about.I apologise if this sounds like a criticism of the Tr6 it’s most definitely not as I love my car but maybe I fell into the trap of comparing my fifty year old car with a car of today so long live classic cars original warts and all I say.

    I think you're excusing poor repair or misalignment over 50 years to be something inherent to the car due to poor built quality when it was first manufactured. That doesn't allow for frames that sag from age and rust, the fact that it's not a monocoque style of construction with its many removable panels, the torque twisting the body over years and repairs and misunderstanding of how to align the body over those years. 

    There are many cars that have been put together right or survivors that have good door gaps, but so often when a car has been repaired, that's when things go awry.

    It is possible to adjust a car that's already together and painted, to a certain level that can be pleasing as I've shown with my own photos. 

    Don't give up, don't make excuses for the build quality, things can be sorted if you want them to be. 

    Of course few classics are perfect and it's good to just get out in them and enjoy them, and not be too precious that you're in fear of using it.

    Gareth

  8. What signals the injectors to fire?

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    4 hours ago, SlickV8 said:

     

    Daft question; is the aim to have the idle speed screw fully closed? Best I can get is idling around 1100 with fast idle screw out a little over 1/2 turn. It’s still lumpy on initial throttle. 
    it’s also happier with a touch of choke on. 

     

    No the idea is to have the throttle plates (butterfly's) shut and to introduce air via the bleed screw hopefully getting around 750 - 850 rpm when it's adjusted correctly. 

    Gareth

  10. Engine cut-outs

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Steve-B said:

    Thanks Peter but when to do that? Now or at next failure ? Given it’s so unpredictable I’m unsure…

    It's Gareth, were you replying to me?

    Well the tank I'd be checking now. The injectors when it happens. Its for sure a frustrating problem when it's not really predictable. You have made some progress on the ignition side so at least you can be more confident in that. 

    I wonder could the shuttle in the MU be getting stuck and cooling off releases it? Again pulling some injectors when it's stopped will confirm. 

    I understand the feeling of losing confidence in the car, you will solve it but it may take some time and patience. 

    Gareth

  11. Engine cut-outs

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    I would have taken an injector or two out and cranked it over to see if they were spraying correctly... I'd guess they wouldn't be as you said you had a good spark. 

    You could check the tank for some debris that's blocking the outlet, cavitation is possible, but harder to check. 

    Good luck. 

    Gareth

  12. What signals the injectors to fire?

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    I can only imagine turning the ignition off which will turn the pump off somehow allows pressure to be released and you see a pulse from an injector, doesn't really make much sense to me as its fully mechanical, so needs to be turning combined with the fuel pressure and the shuttle space containing the amount of fuel to be pushed via the rotor into one of the six injector lines. 

    In any case it seems the problem started before you changed anything. So I would think it's worth substituting the MU for the refurbished one, make sure it's timed correctly to give yourself the best chance. Also if you can back fill each injector line with fuel, it'll save a bit of time priming the system. It's good to regularly start the car as the fuel lubricates the shuttle and this newer fuel doesn't seem to like sitting so long as the old stuff. 

    Good luck and report back on what happens. 

    Gareth

  13. Drivers door non alignment

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    You'll find that it's tricky to get to the rear most body mount to shim but not impossible. There is a bumper bracket attached to the chassis leg and rear wing, all these bolts should be loosened too, and will also be the limit to how much you can add shims before you can't get the bolts back in. 

    You may also find you can adjust the gap between rear wing and door by undoing the rear wing, and adding a spacer where it attaches to the b pillar (usually at the bottom where the gap tends to be less). Everything is a compromise, you move one thing, it changes something else, so you need to find that best compromise. Here is my passenger door after adjustment, I changed the position of the door, wing and shimmed the rear to achieve this. Lower picture was before I started, middle was during and top was how I finished. Nothing is perfect, but I'm a lot happier with it now. 

    Gareth

    IMG_20221019_115720_874.thumb.jpg.6d2bc8ab58a818088045d7b1d188e681.jpg

  14. front wheels (brakes?) smoking

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    14 minutes ago, reginald said:

    There can be an issue with the master cylinder piston sitting further in than with original master cylinder, so the clearance can still be to big when measuring across with a straight edge. I had to adjust the rod further out to compensate, I used the original master cylinder to check this.

    Richard

    I concur.

    Gareth

  15. front wheels (brakes?) smoking

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    I had this, luckily at slow speed straight away after replacing the MC. The standard adjustment in the book didn't work for this combination. I did exactly the same and loosened the MC to servo bolts and the brakes came off. Then I dabbed some paint on the pushrod after adjusting it and when it made a feint impression on the MC I knew I had the 'air gap' I needed.

    Gareth.

  19. Engine cut-outs

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, Steve-B said:

    Hi Gareth, I presume your point for me to investigate is when it cuts out?

    Yes exactly that, you should be able to test you have a spark or not, you can even remove some of the injectors and see if they are spraying while cranking over, that way you'll find the area that's stopped working.

    Gareth

  24. Engine cut-outs

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    My betting is the coil also, fail when hot and work again when cooled off (had this exact problem a few years ago). Carry a spare and when it happens again swap it and see if it cures the fault. 

    Gareth

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