Mk2 Chopper
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Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper
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My thoughts on the weekend:
Heavy traffic on the way, rain mostly on the Saturday... obviously nothing anyone could do about that (good to see next year in June as the increased holiday traffic was apparent).
The entrance road (track) was awful, pot holes and dusty.
Show felt subdued, no auto solo to watch or arena events Saturday. I did take advantage of the discount to visit the Haynes Museum on Saturday, it's very good.
Saturday evening, enjoyed a BBQ with my local group, and we made the best of it with the rain.
The MCC trials looked good, but I couldn't see the best of the action from the viewing area, but great idea to do it.
The facilities seemed very good, I made the mistake of getting a first round of drinks in and incurred the cost of the plastic 'glass' on top of this drinks.
Sunday I was able to enjoy the arena, and even got my '6 in there, also met the founders of the register, what a lovely couple.
So my impression at the end of the weekend was the show was more than the sum of its parts. I came away despite a few negatives, having a really positive time. I've already booked somewhere to stay for next year's.
Gareth
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Any pictures of it Graham?
Gareth
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Welcome to TR6 ownership. It sounds like you've learnt a lot already from here, it really is an invaluable resource.
The metering unit will still work 180 degrees out, you've done well to tackle all these jobs.
I like a car that needs a few things doing to take it up a level, you get to know the car and it becomes your own that way.
Gareth
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Correct bonnet release is the same all versions. I too have fitted the emergency release, and use it instead of the standard one.
Gareth
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1 hour ago, Steve-B said:
@Mk2 Chopper do you know any firms that I can send ours to for a rebuild? Must admit it doesn't look impossible, but I'm sure many have said similar
things before!
Looks like I was beat to the answer, that's the place to use.
Gareth
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1 hour ago, Steve-B said:
Hi guys,
I'm getting ready to attack the underlying issue and wanted to sanity check what I will need before starting. I've searched the forum for links to a how-to but as of yet haven't found a good guide. I feel OK in doing this, as I've done it for years on cars without a servo, however I'm unsure with the servo how to disassemble.
- I presume I'll need a Master Cylinder reseal kit with all the gubbins - I checked at TR Shop and they have one so I'll get that
- Presuming the servo is full of brake fluid, I will need to capture and safely dispose of that - is the local council tip best for that?
- I'm guessing I'll need to bleed the brakes when I've rebuilt the MC -- is the Eezibleed the best way to do so?
- Will 1 litre of DoT 4 be enough to refill?
Thanks in advance for your counsel!
Hi Steve,
You could try a rebuild kit for your MC, but if there is corrosion/ scoring then it might be a temporary repair. I think you can have original MC's rebuilt.
Council tip take oil, not sure about brake fluid, maybe a jar into the black bag would have to do?
Yes you'll need to bleed the brakes, I'm old school and still like to do it with another person operating the brake pedal.
I litre should be enough to do it.
Gareth
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I missed the forum meet up to.
Sorry gang.
Gareth
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Certainly can be an injector issue, can often be resolved by bleeding the one that isn't working. To check isolate each injector line at a time and feel each one for pulsing, if one doesn't pulse, then it's not operating. Take the injector out and gently tap the casing while holding it up with the engine running and usually you can bleed it until it produces a cone shape spray.
Of course it could be ignition, if you have points check their condition and the gap. And check the plugs too.
Gareth
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We did have some sun at the show (Friday)
Gareth
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On 8/5/2023 at 12:33 AM, YankeeTR5 said:
Suggest you look at GC360enterprises.com
Nice repros of the original American Racing Silverstone (oem for TR5 & 250) and ARE Lemans (oem for the 6). Either is much better looking the any of the various repros of the minilites or panasports in my opinion....
I agree, they look so good.
On 8/5/2023 at 9:07 PM, harrytr5 said:Silverstone 2 Copies of ARE, bought from a guy in Canada who has these made.
Regards Harry
And that's the proof right there, how good they look. Shame they are not imported over here.
Gareth
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Can't wait for the show, after what happened last year, its been a while. Just hope the weather plays ball, I'd prefer to have the roof down!
Gareth
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Welcome to the forum and TR ownership. Sounds like it needs a lot of work, so good luck with it. Pictures are always appreciated of what you've got and what you're doing to it.
Gareth
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7 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:
Hi Marco.
I'm running my rocker cover vent out through a small filter which works fine, but I'm intrigued by the PCV valve which looks to only have been fitted to the carb'd models. Can you explain to me how it works exactly and could I fit one to my 73 PI? Bare in mind that I'm running a 12V vacuum pump to my MC so it pulls more vacuum than the engine does with one-way valves to make this all work. I see they're available from Moss for not a crazy price but suspect it may not work with my setup.
Cheers Gavin
I'm intrigued by your set up Gavin, how does it change the vacuum amount depending on throttle position? I know this is off topic, but I'm curious how your set up works.
Gareth
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13 hours ago, Steve-B said:
I like the idea of adding a clock though I wonder where the dash dimmer switch went?
Probably in the bin, it's pretty useless
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1 hour ago, mleadbeater said:
thanks again
Gareth,
as my car has an ammeter, if i get some chrome smaller instruments, is there an ammeter with chrome, or only a voltmeter ?
The wiring will be different, although it shouldn’t be too hard to bypass and fit a voltmeter.
Mike.
Hi Mike,
If they are gauges from a CR TR6, you'll only find a volt meter available. There maybe ammeters of the same size with a chrome bezel for other vehicles. But you want the needle to face the right way, CP they are attached above on a CR they are attached below, so you might just be better getting all the correct small gauges so they match.
The wiring is slightly different, the connection at the ammeter would need to be connected together to allow power to continue without the ammeter. The voltmeter seems to be connected to a white wire that goes to the alternator charging light and earth to make it work.
Gareth
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I use a Crypton Synchro Check B89, you can find them on ebay.
Gareth
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It should have chrome bezels as per the speedometer and tacho you already have. The dash is from an earlier model.
Gareth
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Looks really good
Gareth
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As the PI system uses vacuum to set the amount of fuel, its critical to have all the throttle plates (butterfly's) in sync, using an air flow meter can be useful here. Also the valves (tappets) need to be checked and set. This way you should ensure that the vacuum is at the most consistent and not changing with each cylinder.
Next I would check the ignition, plugs, points and timing. For timing it's best to turn the distributor to the position that the engine idle's fastest, and then on the road check if it pinks when in fourth gear at a lower speed as you accelerate. If it does use the vernier adjustment on the distributor to retard it until it no longer happens. You could then see where your timing degree marks are so you know in future where to set it.
Gareth
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3 hours ago, Dave Peplow said:
Hi guys. I’m still getting used to starting my car. 1972 TR6 British car with fuel injection. My question is this. When I first try to start it. I turn on the ignition count to between 10 and 15 seconds. Pull the choke out fully Turn the key and hope it starts. if I turned the ignition on and left it on would I hear the pump eventually stop like it used to on my Stag ??
No the pump will continue to create pressure, when it reaches the pressure set by the pressure relief valve this will then start returning fuel back to the tank.
Gareth
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20 minutes ago, pjc615ukuk said:
Plugs have only done a little over 1k miles?
I took them out, and other than being a little wet, they looked a good colour?
Cleaned them and put them back. Still wouldn't start!
Ok that's good, have you checked you have a spark when cranking the engine over?
Gareth
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Check the spark plugs, might be sooted up, bad gaps or in poor condition.
Gareth
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21 minutes ago, RobH said:
I think it is more likely that one of the lead connections to the coil was bad and the action of removing/replacing the coil fixed it.
Why was the coil boiling hot? They normally run hot to the point of being uncomfortable to hold, but not boiling.
I guess I'll never know if it was purely a connection issue, but there are many accounts on here of coils not working when hot but work when cold again, but perhaps they were connection issues?
As I said I think the oil was leaking out of the coil so that may have contributed to it heating up more than I've noticed before.
Gareth
TR6 Metering unit fuel leak
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Ken,
Not sure if you've found the information on the return line, but it's the small diameter pipe from the MU, either a push fit or screwed in (later MU) and it's in the area where the MU mounts to the distributor pedestal.
Gareth