[Thrust washers (again )]

Ok so take a measurement of the actual current end float then measure the thrust washers that are in there, so I guess it'll come down to is it cheaper to buy some standard washers to test end float measurement or a micrometer to measure the current washers!

[Thrust washers (again )]

Thanks Dave,appreciate your comments, all valuable information

[Thrust washers (again )]

Thanks Andrew I'll take a look at his site, I wasn't aware you could measure the end float without the washers, but that makes sense to get the current wear. Thanks

 

Peter, that's a brilliant tip, one that I'll be using for sure!

[Overheating]

Are you sure the supplementary fan is 'pushing' air through the rad not sucking it and working against the flow of the stock fan? The thermostat would normally go open, and over cool when it stops working. It sounds like the system is working in terms of once you are moving, so it's just figuring out why it doesn't stationary?

[Alternative heater valve]

This is the one I've got (4 seasons 74648) through Amazon, just needs some thread sealant and I'm good to go, one thing, does it just screw down to the correct orientation?

[Thrust washers (again )]

Thanks Kev, I did see a lot of references to that in previous 'Thrust Washer' posts, so worthwhile taking a look at the same time, thanks for the suggestion, just a few bits to order and see how we get on!

 

Gareth

[Thrust washers (again )]

Thanks Andy, i'm sure it will become more clear as i delve into it for real, not just looking at words and pictures!

[Thrust washers (again )]

Hi guys,

 

Thanks for all the helpful posts I've already learnt from.

 

As a relatively new 6 owner here, and I want to check my thrust washers as a preventative measure.

 

I've searched through many threads on here and have got a good idea now, but I wanted to list it out to make sure I've got it right.

 

1) using a Dti gauge measure the current end float (push pulley in, press clutch to push out)

 

2) if above reveals wear over minimum, drain oil, remove sump, bearing cap and take out TW's and check (if possible) what size were fitted.

 

3) if I can see what size were fitted then order a new set of the same and fit and re test the end float. Any variation would now need an additional over size TW to that was previously fitted?

 

Is it obvious which way round they fit?

 

4) use assembly lube to refit TW's and bearing/cap, torque up.

 

5) new sump gasket (and a sealant?) And fit sump, new oil, check for leaks.

 

Is that pretty much the method?

 

Gareth

[Fuel Injection System Overhaul]

Thanks for the comments guys, makes perfect sense and a good way to manage the system

 

Gareth

[Fuel Injection System Overhaul]

This is all good info for my 6 (particularly my injectors).

 

One thing I wanted to pick up on was the comment about PI cars needing a 1/4 of a tank of fuel, can you elaborate on this, as I had a break down, engine cut out and I put it down to over heated coil, cooled it and it ran again, but I also wasn't sure if had been a fuel issue, at the time I was heading to get some fuel and the gauge was between empty and 1/4 of a tank.

[Idle rises to 5k - possible cause?]

I do believe there is an air leak as the air valve can be screwed right in without the engine stalling.

I think that's your starting point, the linkage is probably the rest of the reason

[No Pulse on fuel line No. 2]

Good point on doing it safely. I think the o ring can't be any good as the nozzle part inside can slide out with no effort, also no clip is fitted near the pin.

[No Pulse on fuel line No. 2]

Update:

 

With the car idling, I took out the injector and sure enough nothing coming out. As there was no visible nipple I gently tapped it while holding it up and eventually fuel started to spit out, I put it back and the engine ran better, took out the adjacent one to see what the flow should look like and it had a nice conical spray,I pulled the non working one back out and it was also making the correct pattern of flow and the nipple was back out too

[No Pulse on fuel line No. 2]

This is a good topic, and one I've been researching as my new to me TR6,has started being a bit rough at lower revs.

 

I checked each injector line and one isn't pulsing, so my next job is to try and bleed that injector,thanks to all for the comment's

[MOT Exemption]

I think they are targeting heavily modified from original cars. In the end it will just come down to opinion what a substantial change is, but I don't see your telescopic shocks as being one myself.