Mk2 Chopper
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Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper
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Ernest, you need to do the following checks when this happens again:
With a spare spark plug remove an ht lead connect to the spare plug and ground it against the engine block and with someone cranking the engine over, see if there is a spark.
If the above checks out, now remove a plate between two injectors (one bolt) and pull out one of the injectors and again with someone cranking the engine, do you get a nice cone spray from it?
One of these checks should find the problem and then it's a case of trying to resolve what's causing the fault in either of those systems.
Gareth
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5 minutes ago, Chilp3 said:
Here are a couple of pictures of my TR6 with wires fitted. The wheels were supplied by MWS.
In my opinion, that's how wires should look, standard width and painted, and it looks awesome.
Gareth
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1 hour ago, David Peel said:
Hi Gareth. Thanks for the note back, yes I’m finding that a fully original car is a real needle as most have been reconditioned and upgraded to suit that owner etc. I’m looking for a good solid base (chassis and body etc) with as sound as possible mechanicals to use and improve. So will take a look and see. David
Good luck with it, I think white really works well on a '6.
Gareth
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10 hours ago, David Peel said:
Hi Stuart. Unfortunately I’m still new to this and just starting to get a feel for the cars. May I ask if you can expand on what may not be original. Thanks
Couple of things from the pictures that I can see, steering wheel, wheel trims and seats. You will find lots of cars don't have original parts, and a lot of the first year only items are not present on many '69 TR's. Still could be a great car there if it checks out upon viewing.
Gareth
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So a 'wheel barrow' exhaust?
If so going back to a standard style (stainless and performance are available) will gain you some more clearance without resorting to drastic measures such as trying to raise the body.
Gareth
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Looks very good.
Gareth
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I had the 'coil failure' due to heat, cooled the coil down and refitted and started fine.
But when I put this on the forum one time, another poster (I forget who) that gives good advice on all things electrical, felt that there was no way for a coil to be intermittent, it would either work or be broken, and that it was more likely that the act of removing and refitting had cured the issue (bad connections).
Gareth
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1 minute ago, Jules TR6 said:
As the new points have got me to where I want to be, I'll stick with them until which time they in some way encourage me to try electronic again - which would be Pertronix (the previous, which now resides in the boot was another brand - and probably not so well made).
The fuel lines over the engine are steel braided, and the engine does get very hot indeed. When I came to adjust the timing via turning the distributor I almost couldn't hold it, it was so hot - but I guess this is normal.
Next time I have a 'wont' start' situation when hot, I'll check for pulsing in the braided injector hoses. I had read nylon are better (probably on this forum), but as this is a new car (to me), and I've already done quite a bit to make it run properly, and a few safety details, I didn't want to immediately embark on all the 'upgrades'.
A stall is quite an unusual and abrupt situation for an engine, I assumed it might have flooded, the injectors continuing to fill the engine with fuel after loss of ignition. So either the hour wait evaporated this fuel or it cooled the fuel lines. Not sure which, but would like it not to happen again.
The braided seem to have the reputation for being affected by the heat. Once the engine stops the Metering Unit stops, so no more fuel will be pushed through. It is possible for the injectors to dribble once shut off and lose the pressure in the line, so it could be a combination of both, the braided lines causing vapour and leaking injectors. Mine takes longer to start when hot especially when it's just been shut off and restarted.
Gareth
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Hi and welcome to the forum and TR ownership.
Yes you are right on that straight 6 sound.
I would suggest the electronic ignition was in some way defective, I use pertronix and find no difference to well set up new points, it's just consistency over time compared to points and if there is any shaft wear, that would affect points more. The downside is not leaving the ignition on without the engine running, and on a P.I. we like to prime the pump for a short time. But knowing that is the case, you use it accordingly.
It's possible the timing would change a tad when changing from points to electronic, so it's good practice to check that after installation, just as you would when fitting new points.
There's no question that points work really well and when you have quality parts (DD), it'll just need the odd adjustment to keep it good.
As for the stalled engine, I wonder if it was to do with heat, some fuel vaporisation perhaps? Do you have nylon injector pipes or braided? When turning the engine over when it won't start, can you feel pulses in those injector lines?
Gareth
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I prefer wires on the earlier more rounded cars, not sure it suits the '6 so well. It was an option though and the early Press car had them, so perfectly acceptable for a factory correct look on an early TR6. If I were to have them though, personally I'd avoid chrome and centre laced, as I don't think they look good. Lots of people do though, just not for me.
Gareth
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6 minutes ago, Harbottle said:
Is the RC001 only a summer tyre or will it cope in the wet?. I don't use the car in winter but our summers seem to resemble winter at times.
I seem to remember it does rain in the summer from time to time.
Gareth
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On 9/18/2023 at 2:19 PM, stuart said:
As fitted to this as well.
Stuart.
I'm in good company then
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These are what I use:
Old style tread, based on Michelin XVS tyre and is H rated.
Gareth
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I use 165/80 x 15, car looks and feels great compared to the larger lower profile I started with. Mine are fitted without tubes on the standard wheels.
Gareth
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You can't see as much detail including panel gaps on the classified one from its photos, but I think the price would reflect the overall condition, so I wouldn't expect it to be anywhere near perfect either. Certainly a viewing is in order. That way you can get a feel for the car and general appearance as well as mechanical, chassis etc.
At shows I've seen so many cars with poor panel gaps, there are a lot out there! Mine wasn't too good one one side, some adjustment of the door/ rear wing and chassis has corrected it. The ebay one looks like the door is secured at an angle which could be brought back in line closing the rear gap a tad, other things might be required, and I'd want to get underneath and check the chassis wasn't corroded and the cause of it.
At the end of the day you have your budget and have to compromise on things, so it comes down to what you can improve, what you can live with and what you simply must walk away from.
I think the more you can look at the better, you'll find one that isn't perfect but you can live with and improve and make your own.
Good luck with your quest and hopefully you'll end up with a car you can be proud of and enjoy.
Gareth
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3 hours ago, PodOne said:
Finally what's the best way of folding the hood to avoid creasing the clear plastic panels?
I usually unzip the main clear rear window to let it hang down. Then when the roof is down, pull the hood towards the boot getting it straight and even, then fold it back towards the car and finally diagonally fold each side in along the edge of the side windows to avoid them being creased.
No idea if that makes sense but good luck!
Gareth
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I'd say point one sounds like the plunger isn't long enough to latch fully and may need to be wound out a few more turns?
Sounds like you've figured out your fuel issues, we the symptoms at least!
Brakes, will probably respond to further bleeding now you've used them a bit.
Looking great though, and confirmation from the passers-by that enjoyed seeing it.
Gareth
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23 hours ago, cylon6 said:
just wanted to show a speaker box i built and installed without destroying the rear panel. sounds great even with the top down and at highway speeds.
That looks awesome! Good work.
Gareth
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On 9/3/2023 at 6:22 PM, CK's TR6 said:
Toby, I took an old set of rear drop links, cut the ball end off then threaded the rod. Put a tie rod on that had the appropriate taper. I am in the US and bought the rod ends from RockAuto, $6.
Sorry just couldn't be read before. Nice idea.
Gareth
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KMI do the large ones, not sure about the small internal ones, but worth an ask.
Gareth
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15 hours ago, J.C. said:
Appreciate all the responses from everyone and finally (fingers crossed) seem to have sorted the problem. As the did not happen all the time, just occasionally, it was difficult to identify which cylinder might be the culprit. Eventually managed to identify number one cylinder as the issue, so replaced the injector and seal and so far everything seems fine (famous last words).
On a separate note had a look at the injectors on other cylinders and could not get the nylon adaptor that the injector sits in out. Is there a technique to this os is it a case of long nose pliers and hard tug?
Also was thinking of trying to refurb the old injector myself but how on earth do you get that small cir clip off the end?
It's a sprung clip, so hold one end with a flat blade screwdriver, and using a second one force it apart to release from the groove.
Gareth
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14 hours ago, John L said:
If you want to take that circlip off, its a good idea to do it in a bag, as they will fly off, and you will never find it, and its not possible to get replacements!!! There is a technic to get it off, I think I have used a pointed spike to pry it off, but was a long time ago now.
John
I've managed to get some circlips off ebay a while ago, for one of my injectors that was missing one. But totally do it in a bag!
Gareth
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Looks superb, I did the same thing with my oil gauge, got mine off ebay and was the closest thing to looking like a smiths one.
Do you have the old gauge for a comparison? Should look great when installed, good job.
Gareth
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Tried twisting the bezel?
Gareth
Ammeter wiring and operation
in General TR Technical
Posted
I wired my TR6 fuel pump via a relay direct from the battery, and of course this meant the ammeter needle wasn't at zero, once I understood what you've explained above I was able to change the wiring to allow the ammeter to work properly again.
Thanks for the post, I'm sure it will help a lot of people.
Gareth