Mk2 Chopper
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Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper
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That's great I'll look forward to your findings
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Just looked at Rimmers RR1414 and you've got 420lbs and one inch lower at front and rear is just described as uprated
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According to the information I found on Moss the TT4001 is rated at 390lbs and is slightly lower and the TT4212 is rated at 420lbs and is standard ride height, elsewhere those two springs are said to be standard ride height, I suspect that they are shorter than stock but being stiffer come out nearly at stock or slightly lower than, if that helps find something similar?
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Thanks Marc, should feel rather different on 165's than the 205's I'm running now!
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5 minutes ago, Kevo_6 said:
....I think the stance is just right (for me).
And me! Thanks for the info
Gareth
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In that case Kev, what springs are they, I want my car to look as good as yours!
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Gavin the XAS is only available in 165/80-15, I also wondered about the ride height, but I think it's just two people on board, it certainly looks great, a proper nimble sports roadster!
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1 hour ago, Kevo_6 said:
Hi Gareth
Here is a pic of my car with 165s Michelin XAS.
Got to love a rolling shot, the 165's look perfect by the way! Thanks for sharing
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I'm planning to reinstate the steels on my TR6 early next year, current set up is 6 x 15 wolfrace with 205/60 15. I've been searching for pictures of 6's wearing 165's but that's not been as easy to find as I thought, it seems a LOT of them have wider and lower profile tyres, so it's harder to see a 6 with such 'thin' tyres to know it'll still look good.
The pictures in this thread certainly look really good with the correct size fitted and have made me decide over the 185/70 alternative to go for the original UK size...now to decide what brand?
Gareth
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Look forward to seeing how it's gone
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What was the temperature when you painted? How light were the coats? The heavier you put it on the shinier it will look, although there is a risk of runs if you go too far. Also the lighter it is the more the overspray will lay on the semi dry surfaces. You may find you can buff it up with some cutting compound. Any pictures?
Gareth
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I've heard some people try to tax online and find the status is already confirmed as it was for pre 1960 cars. I've not come round to it yet so will have to see what options I have at the time, but thanks for sharing your experience
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So it's possible mine either had it as an option or was fitted later, just need to decide whether to keep it like it is or change it.
I don't mind it from a practical sense as that's all I've known.
Gareth
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I was searching this subject as my 1970 cp has a steering lock/ignition under the column and a four hole switch plinth. I feel looking at these items they are original, but could have been added/changed in a previous restoration, or do indeed belong to my car.
On searching the matter most of the suppliers list steering lock from CP5+++++, but I found an exert from the book:
Original Triumph Tr4/4a/5/6: The Restorer's Guide by Bill Piggott
States regarding standard fitment of steering locks "...but home market TR6's had to wait until early in 1971, at CP52786."
So that differs from the opinion or fact that it started at CP5+++++. Which is correct?
Gareth
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Good find, and nice method to drop the diff.
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8 hours ago, Andrew Smith said:
Black felt type material is glued to the N/S wheel arch on the exposed painted area (ignore the painted washer that's another story):
Cheers, Andrew
Andrew is this how an original 6 would have been with the felt over the exposed corner?
Cheers
Gareth
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That's looking really good. I don't have the original spare wheel cover so mine works the way I had to do it.
I'm putting the steels back on mine early next year. Not sure about the chrome strip, more often the sills are painted body colour as are mine, the chrome strip would obviously had been the line where the black would have been up to hidden by the chrome, do you not have the holes to attach the strip?
Gareth
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1 hour ago, joinathanbrooks said:
Looks same colour as mine that is Conifer green. Car was originally Laurel green but that was so "insipid" I went for the darker Conifer colour. When purchased (basket case with a lot in boxes) mine was red, and at some points in time blue, brown and from "memory" cream.
Any pictures of it? I'm still not sure I like the green although the more I do to it the more I like the contrast between the black and the green colour...it's growing on me
Gareth
Here's one of mine:
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I've literally just done this. You can hide all the joints, it can be tricky to get the screws to engage in panel behind. I mocked them up on the floor to see how it went together and get the folds right. You may find you need to trim or make the odd new hole to get it to sit right.
I started by putting the light covers on then each side panel followed by the tank panel, keeping each one loose until they are all in. I found the boot lid stay cut wasn't quite right for my car and if you have the Bosch pump in the same place as the original one it can make it difficult to get the panel in right. The side panels fit under the boot seal but only near the light covers as the go towards the tank they tuck under and curve round.
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Are they 165 x 15's? They look perfect.
Gareth
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I appreciate you posting Trevor, that explains perfectly what I've witnessed. As I say it actually seems to be at a better (more normal) rate now. And yes I do remember seeing an indicator lit but not flashing years ago and now I know why!
Cheers
Gareth
With new lens:
Tyre Size..................again!!!
in TR6 Forum
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Thanks Kev, did you notice or measure a drop when they were fitted? That confirms they are shorter than stock but as they are stronger it might negate much of the lowering effect, although on the front they do say slightly lowered, so they should level out a typically rear down TR6.