Mk2 Chopper
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Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper
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I managed to use the hammer style tool in situ, I had the hood undone at the rear so I could lift it up and put something in the space behind the seats to rest a vice on and used that as something to hit against.
Gareth
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Not sure on why the distributor isn't quite where you expect it to be, but it shouldn't matter as long as the lead to number one is where the rotor arm is at tdc. (Unless it's possible to have the metering unit set wrong in relation to the distributor position? I guess you could check that number one injector is spraying at the point the distributor passes tdc).
So I would also confirm tdc is where you think it is by checking the piston position at cylinder one and checking the timing mark on the pulley and see where the distributor points to and install the leads from that point. Definitely try the points too.
Gareth
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15 minutes ago, Hamish said:
That’s a very period looking tyre you will have to let us know how they perform.
I'll be sure to, by the way I paid £67.38 a tyre, took three weeks to get mind you.
Gareth
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Just got my 165's, Retro Classic 001 (formerly branded Nankang) and are a dead ringer for the old Michelin XVS. So not quite XAS but still look classic.
Here's a pic showing the rears on (the fronts have longer studs that I'm going to cut down this weekend)
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12 hours ago, Mark Ogram said:
Hi Gareth,
They do the centre section with the holes for the number plate housing / light. When I ordered, I specified no holes in the rear bumper.
Mark.
Thanks Mark, I was just saying shame they don't do the number plate housing to match the stainless bumper. I know a chrome one is available.
Gareth
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Good result!
I'm thinking of getting some but want to keep the number plate light/housing for the early look, shame they don't make a ss housing...they don't do they?
Gareth
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Good save, could help someone who's cable goes. This is why early on in my ownership I fitted an emergency bonnet release (that I now use every time I want to open it)
Gareth
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My timing was out due to the marks on the pulley no longer being accurate, I used a simple plastic screw in piston stop so I could find TDC and then set it up correctly from there, and used the adjuster on the distributor to fine tune for the current fuel.
Gareth
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Wanted to update this, I ordered the 22t white gear from a German company advertising on ebay.
Pretty easy to fit, though there was a tight spot, so when testing with a drill the needle would dip at the point of the tight spot. I cleaned out the gear at that point with a knife till I couldn't feel and resistance when turning the speedo over by hand.
Also the trip now turning again also created a small amount of resistance so after a clean and lube it runs steady, slightly less so in the car so I need to lubricate the cable also, slightly undoing it from the speedo has made it better so perhaps I need to take a little material off the end of the cable?
The last thing was to clean the glass and paint the bezel and some new seals. Just the other five gauges left to do!
Gareth
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I would try to find out the body shops reputation, the quality of the work and from previous customers, and see the jobs they are doing at the moment, so you can see for yourself the level of attention to detail they can do.
Gareth
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Certainly makes for some interesting reading!
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I've just been on the phone to Alan, and he thinks he'll be able to sort one out, thanks for reminding me of his details
Gareth
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Thought I'd just bring this one back up, my needle bounces around at 40 or above, and also the trip doesn't work. Upon checking the speedometer, I can see the trip worm driven gear has seized and then stripped which is my the trip doesn't rotate, I'm hoping that removing it will steady my needle too. It seems a shame to not be able to replace that gear/shaft to restore the trip counter, I guess I could look out for a repairs only speedometer.
Gareth
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Same thing, I got an MOT, but as I had little paperwork, I had to drive it to the nearest dvla office so they could see the chassis numbers I'd filled in and the car themselves, before they gave me the number plate.
Gareth
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Cold weather and fitting rubber doesn't always work, dunk the rubber in a bucket of warm to hot water and let it become more pliable before fitting.
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Thanks for letting us know, I'm in the South East and not that far from Edenbridge, when I eventually get the gauges out to refurb the bezels, at least I know somewhere local if they need anything else (my needle bounces above 40 and the trip is stuck).
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This is what you need an electrical connector, it's from the highest amp electrical block connector with the outer plastic removed, might need to just open it up a little with a drill.
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Get a cheap multimeter and check if the power is coming from the battery and then at the starter motor and so on
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1 hour ago, JochemsTR said:
if anything is to be modernized, it is the tires.
Selecting a tire based on the "original look of the car" is in my opinion a wrong approach.
Left Vredestein Classic. Right Hankook. Added benefit, Hankook version much cheaper.
You can get modern versions of 165's with up to date tread.
You would drive any car within the limits of its specification, no air bags, abs etc on these cars, putting the original size tyres is the same thing and could be said to make it drive and handle as the manufacturer intended.
Gareth
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I'm going back to 165's on the steels this spring, my choice is slightly towards the aesthetics, but to be fair I don't really drive it super fast, so won't miss the wider tyre for that reason. I feel many TR's look over tyred and I want to recreate the classic looks of the car, good luck with your choice.
Gareth
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That's my plan to tax online and see if it's automatically MOT exempt.
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Nice time at Brooklands today, parked on the banking.
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Yes I try and use the 6 at least a couple of times a month, been out a few times so far in December with another trip out on the 1st planned.
At last we're having some stable dry weather, enjoy.
Gareth
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This double flare pipe end wasn't known to be used on a TR6 by a few classic brake pipe maker's that I tried, probably not an issue if you buy a brake line kit though and not just the individual pipe. I bought one from Robsport and was careful to explain what I needed as far as the flares and the correct one turned up.
Additionally the adjuster for the rear drum is at the bottom opposite the wheel cylinder
Tyre Size..................again!!!
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Got all the wheels on today and gave it a bit of a run, first impressions are positive, I tried the the pressures at the book value of 22/26 and all seemed good.
Gareth