Mk2 Chopper
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Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper
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Because there has been a (considerable) gap between the last real TR and this concept which is a TR only in name really, i don't consider anything to do with Triumph or TR's. I think it's more paying homage, which i guess is a good thing.
I actually like the fact that my car was made by a now defunct brand, it makes it more unique and special to have and use something that no longer exists and never evolved into a modern car.
Gareth
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I would check to see the fuel pressure is correct.
Gareth
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Normally red is live and black earth, the plug ht lead connector is obvious. The green I believe is for reading dwell angle, connected at the coil from the points.
Gareth
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I have a full disk lock that goes over my steering wheel that locks over it.
I did have the hand brake gear stick lock, but I figured all they have to do is unscrew the gear knob to remove.
Gareth
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It seems more likely electrical, based on what you've said before. Changing the ignition to points is a great way to test and the first port of call. I would suggest you try and learn how to do this, maybe with the guidance of a fellow member.
Then you can look at other things like the connection at the coil, the ignition switch, all of which can build up resistance and stop the power getting through.
Gareth
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I think they look so much better than the mx5 seats (in a Triumph TR). Good work.
Gareth
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Yes they all do. The op has the cable/ knob but not the cam on the throttle linkage.
Gareth
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Without knowing much about the history, its a bit difficult to be anything other than a little cautious of the values you're likely to be offered.
Based on your photos alone though I would guess 15 - 18k might be achievable, this is dependant on so many factors even including the time of the year to sell a convertible.
Gareth
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I'm jealous of your new garage, I currently don't have one and the car is covered, and work done outside (bit like my teen years). I think our TR's are the best size car for a standard sized garage.
Anyway enjoy the new place.
Gareth
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That's great to hear, was there anything that swung the decision that one in particular?
I'm sure you'll have lots of fun with it.
Gareth
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27 minutes ago, Jules TR6 said:
Wasn't this what the Bosch fuel pump upgrade was supposed to resolve - that it ran much cooler than the old Lucas pump?
Fuel to and from the engine probably gets cooled somewhat on it's run under the vehicle.
Does anyone still suffer from cavitation in the fuel affecting the Bosch pump - or being caused by it?
Fuel lines above the engine becoming hot when a hot engine is turned off, is another matter of course. And even with all measures to prevent cavitation (i.e. having a 'pre-pump') I guess we'd still all want to park with the boot under shade on a summer's day.
Coils failing when they become moderately hot does seem to be a more common issue however.
In reality was it more a case of an alternative to the lucas set up when spares were not so easy to come by back in the day, or to solve the cavitation issue? I still hear of people that suffer with cavitation issues with the newer system, so it may have solved some (most) but not all cases.
Very little fuel comes back from the metering unit, most of the heating is done at the pump and returned straight to the tank via the prv to go round and round getting hotter and hotter until you reach the threshold of the boiling point of petrol. Its the gravity fed suction side that's the problem here, hence the idea of another pump with better suction to feed the Bosch pump.
Coils I'm not convinced about, why would a coil no longer work when it's hot, but work again when cool? Is it more likely a bad connection at the coil, and when swapping coils sorts the issue out?
Gareth
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Thanks Mike, this is really interesting information, I might try get hold of that book too. Yes I see what you mean a carburettor pump would be ideal, going to have to do some research on pumps now!
Thanks
Gareth
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Yes i remember now you've said that. What's the reason there isn't a better pump to combat this problem? Do you know the specification of the Carter pump you use? Does it require any regulation or is it quite low pressure?
Gareth
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So would an under wheel arch pump fitment, actually be more susceptible to cavitation due to the length of the low pressure suction line, compared with a spare wheel mounted pump that has a shorter suction line?
Edit:
I'm thinking it's probably just mounted on the outside of the spare wheel housing, so actually not much further away. So would an addition of a small pump that can suck better and feed the bosch pump prevent cavitation?
Gareth
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Welcome to TR ownership and welcome to the forum.
Gareth
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Sounds like the master cylinder, I had this when I fitted a new one as it wasn't adjusted correctly to the servo pushrod.
Gareth
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They've certainly been fair with the amount of information they've provided you. I guess now it's up to you. Good luck with the decision either way.
Gareth
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Good to hear and thanks for reporting back. I wonder if similar to the distributor cap, you can get tracking, with the flow taking a different path and not jumping the gap?
Gareth
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Good a choice of cars helps to see differences or issues with each.
You are looking for rust first, chassis, sills, doors, wings etc, panel gap is good at showing rust as the chassis can sag. Mechanical will be like most other classic cars, and repairable, but check to see if it's in good order.
If your gut is telling you to walk away, then do so.
Gareth
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So it's an an American import, looks like a '76 with the front indicator and bumper height, over riders not put back though.
Looks a fairly honest car from the pictures, I would try and get someone knowledgeable to go and check it out with you to be sure, find your local club maybe?
Gareth
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Yes that's definitely broken, it's the link for the anti roll bar, they are available for around £20 for standard.
Anyway good luck and welcome to the forum, and future TR6 ownership. Any other pictures and we'll assess the car from what we can see.
Gareth
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Great news, double check the lucar connector for the coil, they can corrode, including the wires, and cause cutting out etc.
Gareth
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Did you do the tongue test to check the diaphragm can hold vacuum? If it can't the engine will run super rich and will find the symptoms you have.
Have you checked the 'choke' lever on the MU is fully closed when off, again if out of adjustment it'll be very rich.
You said timing is okay, have you tried ignoring the pulley marks and slowly turning the distributor clock wise/ anti clock wise to get it at the fastest idle speed?
You may find the plugs are ruined now they've been so sooted up, and a new set may help. It sounds like it's done a lot of cold starting which won't help them.
Gareth
TR25 concept car, thoughts?
in Social Scene
Posted
Yes they've taken a cool car from their past and revived much of the look into a modern (larger) package and its been popular.
The TR25 is more of a completely new concept that doesn't take anything much from the TR2 apart from the first part of the model number, maybe a new car could actually be based on the looks of a TR... but which one?
Gareth