Mk2 Chopper
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Posts posted by Mk2 Chopper
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8 hours ago, Z320 said:
Just one thought: with the trottle fully closed you get no fuel / air mix and the engine dies.
Could you please explain exactly what you want do do and what your hope is, please?
Ciao, Marco
On petrol injection, you have a air bypass valve, so when the throttle plates/ butterflies are fully shut you get idle air from this valve.
Gareth
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12 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:
My throttle bodies are all cleaned up, as are the spindles and butterflies. Carbon, oil, dirt - everything has gone and I now have a nice clean setup.
I’m going to run a bleed screw at both ends of the throttle bodies and will be feeding in fresh air, courtesy of the Bauly Cars catch can.
Given the ability to control the air flow at idle a lot more efficiently than the original setup, I was thinking of setting the butterflies with zero clearance at full closed position.
It’s a relatively new area of experimentation for me, so welcome all thoughts and ideas.
You need to achieve as near as you can fully closed without the throttle plates/ butterflies digging into the throttle body itself. That is the idea of having the bleed valve. You may find now they are cleaned up it's not as easy to fully reduce air flow around the throttle plates.
Look forward to seeing how the two bleed valves works.
Gareth
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33 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:
You’re doing a cracking job of keeping this at the top of the threads list, irrespective of whether it’s a sticky or not. Maybe just let it go ?
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It's because its one of the unique features of the TR5/6.
Everyone accepts its outdated technology, not as efficient as modern systems and more complex than carburettors, but it's part and parcel of a UK/ European spec car. People like to modify and that's great, it's good to have variety. Some of us like to preserve the originality of our cars as much as is possible.
Triumph soon dropped P.I., so it's great to keep and use something that's only fitted to a relatively small number of vehicles, the survivors of a different era.
Gareth
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37 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Go engine driven fuel pump using the Bosch electric to start the engine only.
more reading
http://www.lucasinjection.com/bosch_and_lucas_fuel_pumps.htm
That's really good! Interesting is also listed the flow rate and psi and amps of a number of Bosch pumps. The 413 pump is listed at 200l/ph and runs at 8 bar (116psi) although no chart is listed for that model on its amps, only the 044 variant which is rated at 6.5 bar which would be around 14 amps.
So the question is, would that pump (413) be better as it runs at a little over the pressure we require (approx 7.5 bar)? Another model (909) rated at 148l/ph at 5 bar shows the amps to be under 9 when it outputs at 7.5 bar.
So it's a bit confusing to know which is best for our application. I can imagine higher amps could mean a warmer motor, not good for cavitation. Perhaps longevity won't be a good if the pump is running closer to its maximum? And what actually controls what the pump puts out? Why the range of values on these charts?
Gareth
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22 hours ago, Nick Fairweather said:
Thanks for your responses and offer of borrowing carbs, much appreciated. As I was asking the question I was leaning towards a replacement pump, but your comments have reinforced this decision............thanks again., The Bosh pump I had under the wheel arch developed a leak so I replaced it in 2015 I think with the Moss kit with the filter with it. I'll use the original filter this time and fit a replacement pump in the wheel arch. I've heard of problems with new pumps so any suggestions of the best pump to fit, or is it a lottery?
I have read that the Bosch 0 580 464 126 is a good choice, but unfortunately I can't find specs on its operating pressures and volumes.
Gareth
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Wouldn't you lose power doing this change? I suppose we need to hear from the "loads" of people that have already done this, to see if it was a good idea.
I think the newer pumps are the cause of the overheating fuel, the original Bosch conversions don't seem to have been an issue.
Gareth
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10 minutes ago, roy53 said:
I suggested another electronic ignition change as he says he doesn’t have the confidence to change back to points. Perhaps doesn’t have the parts.So like for like should be the easiest.
Roy
No fair enough Roy. I think what's happened is we have gone through the same advice on at least two threads, and I sense some frustration from those trying to help. There is a lot of information to take in and if the OP isn't confident in changing points for example, maybe he doesn't know which way to go to sort this problem out.
I just hope he reaches out to his local group, I'm sure they would do their best to help and show how to do these things.
Gareth
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It's cheaper to change points and condensor than another electronic ignition Ernest.
If you are able to determine on the next occasion the car fails, that it is indeed an ignition problem (by checking you have a spark of not) then it's a case of working your way back from the plugs to the fuse box, via the ignition leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, points/ electronic ignition, king lead, coil, and 12v supply.
No one can say for sure if the electronic ignition is at fault until its tested under the condition of failure.
Gareth
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Do you have a local TR Register group that you can get help with? I'm sure you'll find they will be more than willing to help out a fellow member.
Gareth
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Fuel can be electrical too as there is the pump, but I would expect it to be obvious that it stopped by no longer hearing it.
I do feel you need to just check what's changed at the time of the fault, by seeing if there is a spark and then fuel spray from the injectors if there was a spark. If for example there was no spark, that would be the time to check the power at the coil, the cap/ rotor arm condition and then swapping back to points and condensor. All these ignition parts can be changed at the road side one at a time to see what happens.
Gareth
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It would be worth fitting points and condensor as a test.
But have you checked for a spark when it won't start? The two checks you need to do when it stops is seeing if you have a spark and if you do, do you have a nice cone spray from the injectors.
These tests will determine which area has the issue. You need to logically work through the issue when it happens.
Gareth
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Lovely looking veneer, and looks very professional, thanks for sharing.
Gareth
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3 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Gareth,
I hope I haven't got my wires crossed but Moss sell a complete NEW hub to the TRiumph design.
They also sell all the parts including the drive shaft with UJ yoke. These are made in the UK (in Surrey)
I have a pair that I fitted in 2017 and they are doing very well.
Roger
Thanks Roger,
No not at all, I welcome information about what is available.
Gareth
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Is it usual to feature a brand new concept car at a classic car show? In any case I think people's opinions were here based on the question of this thread, and were thoughts about this concept car, I don't think anyone is saying it wouldn't attract people that you described: "A lot of these were contractors and most were young and obviously wanted to know about the TR25...", and "...those that don't own one/to scared to/cant afford to/ don't know how to." They sound like the sort of people that like modern offerings in the first place.
I'm sure the display was well done and attracted the demographic that you describe.
Gareth
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When I was finding erratic oil pressure figures, and the gauge lost that 'rev counter' movement, I looked at the PVR and spring and they looked worn, so I fitted a washer as the spring was less than the 40mm I'd read about.
The oil pressure went back up, so I decided to get a new PRV the new spring still wasn't 40mm, but it restored the free movement on the gauge and increased the pressure.
Gareth
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You set the fast idle cam adjustment screw when the engine is warm, by pulling on the cold start cable to move the cam to its maximum position and adjusting to 1800 to 2000 revs. Obviously don't also pull the enrichment lever on the MU.
Gareth
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Always good to have a conclusion to a problem posted on here.
Great service by the sounds of it.
Gareth
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1 hour ago, TR Rob said:
....some of the comments on here would have us still riding horses or at best a man with a red flag walking in front of your car !
That's just ridiculous.
Gareth
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23 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Gareth,
You may have more luck searching in the Forum for Hubs or Driveshafts, it's longhand but if you manually search the threads you'll come up with confirming threads that I've been quoting here...
Mick Richards
Thanks Mick,
I did find a thread which linked to another that someone had a sheared axle. They are certainly not that easy to find though.
I feel there are a few good options out there for replacement, either uprated or standard set up. If anything my search has highlighted problems (not safely related) with a certain upgrade CV version that we are awaiting more information on.
Gareth
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1 hour ago, stuart said:
Weve been using new Bastuck hubs for a number of years with no problems. Not such an expensive solution.
Stuart.
From their website you can buy the inner axle shaft, I'm guessing you could have a set of hubs refurbished and add these to get around potential damage from pressing apart the hubs?
Does anyone sell them over here in the UK?
Gareth
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1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Sorry you think it’s scaremongering Gareth, the results of these original hubs breaking are there to be seen and have been reported on the forum before. I was aware by bringing it to owners attention that it may prove “ contentious” but I’m satisfied I did it for the correct reason and as a service to owners.
You are correct to say that not all of the replacement hub makers have suffered breakages. There are at least 2 makes who specialise in large output engines and/or Competition cars where stresses are high, and these have not had failures recorded on the forum by their owners. Perhaps this should be born in mind when replacing old hubs.As far as I’m aware the previous new hubs with failures, HAVEN’T suffered with broken stub axles or broken hubs. As we’ve reported we are awaiting different reports from owners on a GT6 and on Stag, to see what caused their particular failures. I hope that information will help.
Mick Richards
I've tried searching for this Mick, using Google not the search on here, and all I get is a list of questions asking if a hub is about to fail, and people complaining about CDD versions having lots of play. I'm just not seeing the evidence, but rather reported hearsay about it. I'm not saying it isn't true, but I can't easily seem to find that evidence?
And certainly it's no good to be putting information out there about the imminent danger of using original Triumph hubs, when it's possible that an alternative aftermarket solution may be no better (or possibly worse). We've yet to be assured of that particular brand.
I agree that the versions that are used in competition or cars with uprated power engines are worth a look.
Gareth
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12 minutes ago, astontr6 said:
I fitted Limora over 5 years ago and have had no trouble. At the time I did not go for the CDD ones as there were a number of reports of them failing with very low mileages on this Forum.
Bruce.
Wow so the very thing that we're being scare mongered into thinking with the original hubs, is not necessarily any better with some after market ones!
It's a shame we can't get some definitive data on who's had a failure and whether they were original or aftermarket. I don't frequent the American forums, but you'd think if anywhere they'd have more knowledge about this failure seeing as they had so many more cars out there.
Gareth
Slower starting
in TR6 Forum
Posted
A look at your tail pipe will no doubt confirm and be very sooty.
The first things to do are making sure the correct combustion is occurring and is at its most efficient. The following things would be with going through: clean/ new plugs gapped correctly, clean/ new points (and condensor) gapped correctly, timing correct, all throttle plates fully closed and air flow balanced, valve adjustment checked/ corrected, air filter is clean/ new.
Check 'choke' is set correctly at MU. Check for vacuum leaks in pipe to MU.
These should get you to a base level to see how your system performs. If it's still running rich, you can check the compressions of the cylinders, fuel pressure at the MU and how much vacuum you are getting for the MU.
Beyond that the MU could then need a rebuild and adjustment.
Gareth