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JochemsTR

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Everything posted by JochemsTR

  1. Hello Roger, DOT 5.1 has a lower viscosity at low temperatures, thereby improving vehicle dynamics control systems needing active pressure build-up. Therore, It finds more use in vehicles with ABS and TC. Jochem
  2. I may get crucified for this....get rid of the smiths and install stack. No need for a 10V regulator anymore...including dash lighting... Jochem
  3. DOT 5.1 (Glycolbase) was created to have DOT 5 specifications but compatible with DOT 3 and 4. Jochem
  4. Thank you all for your input! Even the manual states to use a screwdriver. However, the risk of chipping some paint maybe present, so I was hoping to find a different way. I will have it a try either way.... Regards Jochem
  5. Hello, can someone describe how to remove the chrom rim from the headlamp? I have the sping clip version. Regards Jochem
  6. Maybe this can be of assistance in future disc/pad purchases. Y-Axis: Disc X-Axis: Pads Jochem PS partially german...questions, just ask. But I assume it is understandable.
  7. Hello Adrian, if your fuel gauge is being fed from somewhere else....did you at least measure the voltage? It really should be connected after the regulator..... Jochem
  8. electrical '74 other models available too. electrical-tr6-74.pdf Jochem
  9. same issue with me....with camber both sides identical....I gave up on this issue long time ago... Regards Jochem
  10. Hello Adrian, Voltage comes directly from ignition. Same as Temperature (but after fuse). Did you check the ground connections? I know its a hassle, but you should be able to reach the little screws of the instruments to pull them out. That is really the best way to check voltage/ground @ the instruments. Regards Jochem
  11. I removed the cardboard airduct with the thought of installing a nice metal version. Unfortunately, the fit wasn't that well. I decided to leave it off completely. I did not find any cooling issues during my trips in the Dolomites. I am running with 2 temperature sensors and SPAL elec. fan. Good or bad cooling all depends on how well the system is maintained. Regards Jochem
  12. someone was very generous on greasing the pads.... Ian, you can install anti-squeal shims from ATE or TRW...no need for further grease on the back side...just little copper paste on the pads sliding into the calipers. Standard ATE pads are sufficient. Regards Jochem
  13. Tom, Stainless Steel does not like to be wrapped! It becomes brittle. Jochem
  14. Hi Chris, high performance starters just one: WOSP. They carry Denso. Worth every penny. In your case LMS007 http://www.wosperformance.co.uk/products/starter-motors/ Jochem
  15. ...did you check the PDWA after bleeding? If this is not centered or reset you have full brake on either front or rear. Or do you have a functioning brake warning light? For the master cylinder recommendation: TRW PMF214. For the calipers, take out the pads, check for visible damage, lightly (!!) press on the brake pedal. The pistons will come out. You should be able to press them back by hand! If you have original Gerlings, if necessary, have them rebuild, do not buy the no-name after-market crap. Jochem PS also check the rear drums.
  16. Hello Andreas, thank you for your reply. I have been thinking and deciding between Weber and EFI. Recently even Dellorto was an option. I know there are many advantages regarding EFI. However, I have decided to remain loyal to the carburator. Yes, with the money I could go either way. IOZ will do this project. Date is already set. It costs, but I am sure it will be worth it. In my opinion....the Weber have a great performance, sound and look great and are sexy Jochem
  17. John, replacement motors may be available at Rimmer und Moss again. Just look at their website. You may want to check http://www.quillertriumph.co.uk/ If you need further help, I can demonstrate the motor via Whatsapp, Facetime or Skype. Jochem
  18. Hi Tom, I appreciate your input... c/r runs between 9.5 and 10...so I should be good to go. Currently I have about 140 BHP so we will see what happens.... In the mean time I learned that for street use it is advisable to stay below 280°. Just as you said due to tuning mid range. Regards Jochem
  19. Hello, for street use I am interested installing 3 Weber 40DCOE carburators. Is there any rule or recommendation regarding camshaft duration which fits best with Weber? Currently I have a Kent 270° (TH12-6) installed. I am hoping not having to change to a 280°. Jochem
  20. John, removing the heater is not an issue. The heater will be taken out from the passenger side, one of the top 3 screws is a little hassle, you may need to take one of the 52mm instruments out. Take the heater apart, and also the motor. Be careful with taking the security clip from the motorfan. Clean it, maybe new wires and put a little grease on the bearings. Check the resistor. With a battery you can test the motor. There are 3 wires. Ground and two (one of them before and one after the resistor) for 12V. Jochem
  21. Hello Mark, little unclear....do you want the car registered in Germany ? Why don't you post this on German TR Forum (TR-Freun.de) asking this question? The TÜV wants to see a commissionnumber (in your case CC54453L) somewhere on the frame, (mine is stamped in the frame right side, behind the wheel). Original plates on Left Front Wing or Leftfront B Post may cause you unnecessary discussions. I printed of the Triumph Specifications from Triumph Register Germany and gave this to my TÜV guy. He didn't care about the engine. However, you can also talk before hand with the TÜV and ask what they
  22. Hello Andreas, this is exactly what I needed. I will post the results in a few days. I know one of my friends (you know him too!) added material and not removed it ! So I am very curious what will happen in my case. Jochem
  23. Just curious, who else installed these HS Rockers and whether modifications were made to the pedestals and pushrods, or not.... Jochem
  24. Hello Andreas, I appreciate the quick reply. Unfortunately I am still not sure how to go forward. The rocker shaft should be positioned (height) correctly. This can be done by adding shimms under the pedestals.Moss offers TT1910 shimms. These are thin. I may have to make them myself. The question is, how to correctly calculate the required height. Kent 270 (TH12-6) has a 0.287" camlift.....and now? On the flowspeed website, they calculate a 0.313" pedestal shim. This is very much ! Did anyone actually do this? Jochem
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