JochemsTR
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Posts posted by JochemsTR
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Fuel getting hot
I shielded the lines in the TShirt area....another possibility is to install fuel radiator on the return.
I heard about rerouting the lines inside the car but I opted not to and will have to wait till I experience any problems. However, I have a fuel temp sensor to monitor the fuel temp. Just figuring out a location where it actually makes sense to install.
Jochem
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Installed new drum, and turning the wheel, at some position the pads are still rubbing, but not completely around. The same with the old drum, so no improvement there. Since the pads have slots in them, I always thought they center themselves. Not sure where the local rubbing comes from....any ideas?
Jochem
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Rob,
fuel thru rail then thru regulator.
From regulator back to tank.
Jochem
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On 6/9/2019 at 10:30 PM, TriumphV8 said:
The pedestal must be fully torqued like later in use.
It should not be removed and bolted again without test
because the gaskets get compressed each time.
Add a screwdriver in the slit for the distributor and turn.
That lets the gear move up and down.
+1 Worked for me....thanks Andreas
Jochem
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+1 for Mintex1144
Jochem
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Graham,
I will spare my comments regarding exchange the wife for a new one.
My girlfriend drives my TR regularly...comes from a BMW so a lot of difference there. I have Mintex 1144 front and standard pads at the rear. My girlfriend is not complaining, except maybe her hair getting all messed up.
Jochem
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Thanks for the replies.
I bought a drum (yes just one) from our german supplier just to see how it fits and how round the drum is.
If nothing is rubbing on one side I will get the second one.
Since I have Quaife hubs, the two little drum screws are missing and the drum relies on the 4 wheel bolts and the centre bore to be centered properly.
Jochem
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Where to buy the rear drums and pads?
TR Shop London offers finned brake drums, Rimmer standard version and more expensive Al-Fin.
Cambridge offers uprated pads...and so on...
Any advice? My main concern is, the drums are round, not oval!
Jochem
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Just as a precaution, bring a set Spitfire RL1350 with you...
It will be very easy to note when the break clips are loose. You will hear squeaking and rattling while driving. Breaking is still possible. Worst thing can happen is the clip settling between drum and pad....that will leave a mark in the drum.
I soldered the pin onto the clip. Just a safety.
Jochem
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Andrew, one of your break shoe clips is wrong. It needs to be turned 180 degrees.
I soldered mine, since they became loose.
Jochem
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not wanting to ruin the NGK debate...but is no one using Bosch? I am driving 4-point WR78X. Someone once noted such 4-point plugs are a better fit for an engine such as ours...
Jochem
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Colin, that‘s correct.
You will notice water loss at the little service hole as first sign of wear. Time to order a new one.
Jochem
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Update:
ordered new rockers and rockershaft from Rimmer. The shaft is hardened. The rockers need a final bore (hone) to fit on the shaft.
I also got the spacer kit. Did not install it. Some spacers do not fit, the shims required are not sufficient. I may have the make a shim myself.
I installed the rocker feed kit. I am using the connection at the aft camshaft bearing. I am not seeing any significant oil pressure drop. I tested everything with my adapter on the oil pump. After a short test drive I removed the valve cover and seeing significant oil everywhere. As long as the cork gasket can withstand the oil, I will keep on going. At least till my engine #2 is ready. I may use the silikon gasket...
Summary: I understand the oil feed kit may not be the perfect solution. But I hope this will get me going for at least this season. At least sufficient oil is there to keep the rockers going.
Jochem
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Hello KOB,
sounds familiar!! I had the same problem.
I stopped bringing my wife along. Try that.
Ear ache was gone immediately!
Jochem
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....understood.
Thanks.
Jochem
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My suggestion:
take out the pads. The pads should show the wear on the outside edge. Mark them or try to measure the wear. Install und drive. Look after few miles if the wear starts to increase. If so, you are good to go. If not, your calipers/discs may require some attention.
Jochem
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Just for my understanding...what happens when one would bid on one of these ads? Like say 500€?
Jochem
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The visualization was done by one of our TR-Freunde.de members. His name is Jürgen and spend lots of time on this. As an engineer I can appreciate the work behind the computer to model this. Respect.
Jochem
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What Brand are Discs and Pads?
Jochem
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On 5/25/2019 at 1:00 PM, michaeljf said:
What are the Mazda pistons
Mazda or VW pistons. Very popular. I am installing VW 77mm Pistons. Pistons are hypereutectic, somewhat between casting and forging. Recommend CR 10.5.
But either engine block, pistons and/or rods require modifications!
Jochem
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On 3/27/2002 at 10:18 PM, Guest Jim said:
and an up rated oil pump.
...and where did the pump come from?
looking for one too...
jochem
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TR6 Brakes
in General TR Technical
Posted
Andreas, I would really like to try the vented brakes part. The only problem I see is the availability of vented brakes discs and the fact to install a spacer on the calipers. The spacer is doable, but the little o-rings seem to cause problems. I mean, getting quality good ones.
Jochem