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JochemsTR

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Posts posted by JochemsTR

  1. Bob, I have to admit, I did it myself....1:100.  But only occasionally before heavy driving (racetrack) or such. However, in my opinion, there is no justification for such procedure and very dabatable.....Whether deposits increase or lubrication is improved seems to be faith rather than science.

    Jochem

  2. I fitted a second feed last year after valves # 1 and 2 were running dry and the rockers and shaft were ruined. I know the debate regarding the feed. But I was not able to find the root cause. The thru holes were clear. Since I had a big trip coming up, I installed the feed, rather than removing the head. Sofar I have not experienced any loss of pressure ( I attached the feed at the far most aft). The only disadvantage I learned that the oil filler caps are not really closing properly and some oil likes to pass around it. I installed a new cap, we will see whether my valve cover remains having some drops of oil on it.

    For my second engine I plan to install the Goodparts Rockers/Shaft.....my understanding was that such needle bearings need proper lubrication which can only provided by a second feed. Correct?

    Jochem

  3. Bruce,

    the shaft and rockers set (214559XK) do not specifically mention hardened shaft. As for their shaft (TT1217) in the Tune section does. I do not consider this as a quality issue, Moss opted not to offer  the complete set with hardened shaft. Neither does Rimmer. So when interested in a hardened shaft, you need to buy the shaft and rockers seperately and hone them to the specified clearance.

    Jochem

  4. Michael, 

    Moss and Rimmer sell the same rockers. With bronze bearing. Moss sells the shaft (unhardend) as a set with the rockers. Rimmer sells a hardened shaft but not as a set and you need to hone the rockers yourself. 
    I have a set from Rimmer and had the rockers honed. Friend of mine has the Moss set. Both seem to work. 
    The solid spacers did not fit. I need to adjust a few of them. For now they are on the shelf and I am using original setup on the shaft. 
    Jochem

  5. 9 hours ago, dingle said:

    Doesn't the Goodridge brake hoses have a Teflon liner?

    yes, you are right, I stand corrected, the new ones do have a teflon liner....the teflon fuel lines I have have a large bending radius. The Goodridge lines are more flexibel (thinner lining). 20 year old brake hoses should still be replaced...no matter teflon or rubber....a complete kit is still vey affordable...

  6. Hello John, you can make such hoses yourself. These are the Goodridge Dash Fittings which are common in the racing scene. Just Google and you also find the way to install the hoses on the fittings. This also applies to steel pipes....I did my EFI setup with such hoses and pipes.

    To answer your question, the hose was put onto the fitting and it seems it was twisted right before or during the locking onto the body fitting. Remove the hose and slacken the body and try to un-twist the hose. You may need a vice !! Or, buy yourself this angle-fitting, cut of the hose and attach a new fitting. Be careful, you need some practice. The steel braided hoses need a clean cut so they don't raffle out. However, if it was my car, I would buy a hose and fitting and make a new one....or buy a new hose all together. 

    Jochem

  7. 23 minutes ago, SpeedFreak said:

    I just want to know if anything else might have been done before I wade in with my spanner’s and hammer ?

    Measure cam lift across and spark timing. Or do you want to replace the cam?

    Jochem

  8. Richard,

    Early US Carb car:

    - 104bhp @4500 with 132 lbs-Ft @3000

    - 516323 head with 3.4375 "

    - compression across 120-145 psi

    You car:

    -103bhp @4665 with 149 lbs-ft @2685

    - xxxxxx head with 3.346" 

    -compression across 185 psi

    Correct ?

    Jochem

  9. with a 85mm head it confirms my thoughts.....the numbers don't add up.

    1. check cam lift

    2. check timing spark

    3. check cam timing

    Jochem

    In case you are looking to swap cams anyway, you can ignore 1. and 3.

  10. The reason I asked since the numbers do not match up. The 185 psi notes to a modified head. Since only 103 bhp was generated, it seems your camshaft may be out of sync. 
    Measure head height. This tells you whether psi value is plausible. Next step, measure cam lift. With cam lift you are getting closer identifying camshaft.
    Jochem

    PS assuming spark timing is correct. Did you measure this? @idle, 1.500, 2.000, 2.500, 3.000 .... ? 

  11. Replace them ! You may call it unjustified expense but compared to the rest of your suspension, it will be minor and not worth the risk.

    Goodridge braided hoses have rubber inside and I would not count on the rubber being in supreme condition after those years.

    (I have them too).....

  12. On 11/7/2019 at 10:10 AM, Graham said:

    So am i correct in thinking if you are looking for an engine to use a basis for rebuild this would be the type to go for i.e.  strengthening rib on block and the 'fire rings' 

    The strenghthening rib is not a buying argument. I have yet to hear about an incident not having this rib caused some kind of engine failure.

    The fire rings limit the piston selection in case you want to tune-up to 2.7 L or in case you need to take away material from the top. There are modern gaskets (not payen) for oversize pistons available which fit fine on a non-recessed block.

    Jochem

  13. 7 hours ago, Z320 said:

    I also smiled on that because a friend of mine is psychologist and told me there is a term for this "issue":

    cognitiv dissonance reduktion

    "Allow not yourself to realize what is obvious, because this will disappoint you"

    Jochem, who ist he ?????  ....engineer during the day.....psychologist at night.....????

  14. Marco,

    i tried EBC Green Stuff, ATE, EBC Red Stuff, Mintex 1144 and currently Hawk HPS. I had slotted discs and now EBC standard discs.

    I find Mintex 1144 and Hawk HPS very very similar. When hot, absolutely perfect. The Red Stuff gave me lots of dust. Green Stuff felt like "wood".

    Red Stuff, Mintex 1144 and Hawl HPS like it hot. Eventhough claims are made braking under cold works well. Cold may work well, within our safety limits (TÜV, MOT) but not excellent.

    I have yet to find a version that brakes excellent under cold as under hot conditions. Tests are mostly subjectiv since the owner wants to feel an improvement, even when it is not there. It sucks to spend money on so called uprated brakes and not noticing any difference. So one convinces themselves there is an improvement.  It would be very interesting to do an analysis on a brake bench. But who does this?

    Going to 4 piston calipers seem a rather excessive choice without proven benefits....vented discs with original ATE or Mintex 1109 maybe worth trying.

    Jochem

  15. Don't forget valve clearance !!

    Camshaft suppliers provide 4 numbers:

    Camlift

    Valvelift

    Valveclearance

    Rocker ratio

    Example Kent Cam 280°:

    Camlift: .293", Valvelift .423", Clearance .022" @ RockerRatio 1.52

    .293 * 1.52 = .445" - .022" = .423"

    People often forget to check their Rocker Ratio. Original Rocker Ratio is 1.46 and 1.5. Kent specifies their datasheet with 1.52 and Newman 1.5.

    Same goes with timing. Reducing or increasing Valve clearance, you can change your timing. Changing VC from .022 to .020 you increase your duration from 280 to 288°.

    Jochem

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