JochemsTR
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Posts posted by JochemsTR
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Pressure Relief Valve in the engine: is located parallel to the oilfilter and should open around 72 PSI/5 Bar. Opening the valve gives way to the oil sump. So with a cold engine or high rpm the pressure remains under 72 PSI/5 bar.
An Oil Filter with a Bypass is exactly as Ralf described it. Note the comment "...blocked due to neglect.."
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this is what I meant....the pushrods have an aluminium tube (left side) and SS threaded slider with adjustment knob. Every few 1.000 mls the adjustment needs to be checked and the knob is turned pushing the pads out. The size is 6-8 mm in diameter...this sufficient... this push rod can be attached to your lever with a bolt (as you currently have it. and has a fork shape. It just needs to be a 2-piece design with a threaded adjustment knob....
If this does not work....then I am out of ideas...
Jochem
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Marco,
I believe you can easily grind some few mm off from the lever to have more space to the hub. When the push bar, is actually a 6 mm push rod, you can make it adjustable and eliminate play. 6 mm rod should still fit. In modern cars a similar adjustment is required each few 1.000 mls. Try it? You are so close.
Jochem -
On 9/7/2013 at 5:43 PM, Steve P said:
Has anyone fitted a SS Manifold and not used heat insulation?
yes, Phoenix 6-3-1.....in combination with ZS Strombergs and now EFI....
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before anyone asks....the shoe retainers were not forgotten
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this is my current setup...
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John, I can only speak for the Fulllift Method. How did you locate the cam in its Fulllift position? You need a dial gauge on the cam follower, timing disc and approach the cam from both lobe sides. Are you sure you have Fulllift position? After Fulllift you turn your crank to 110 degrees. Now hang up the chain und turn around 2 times. Measure Fulllift again and check whether you are within the 110 degrees with a maximum offset of 2 degrees.
If you have done all this, and there is still a retard.....your cam may not be to spec....is it a used cam? new from known suppliers?
Jochem
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Hi John,
from Kent Website: use your 110 degrees in following example:
“What is 'Full lift' cam timing method?
For many years the most commonly used method has involved establishing top dead center (TDC) as a datum (zero degrees) and positioning your camshaft with its inlet valve at maximum lift at a given position relative to this datum.
For example take our Ford x/flow camshaft number 234 which has a quoted figure of inlet timing @ full lift = 103 degrees. This means that the inlet valve should be set to be fully open at 103 degrees after top dead center. Therefore using a protractor or timing disc you can establish 103 degrees after TDC and it is at this point that your inlet valve should be fully open. Minor adjustments from the standard timing point can be made with the aid of adjustable timing kits or an offset dowel.
“
I hope this helps, if not let me know.
Jochem -
I use the Fulllift method...which is at 105°.... try that....
The timing numbers are always considering VC. This actually means, reducing VC you can change your timing.
Jochem
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10 hours ago, Z320 said:
There have been also 3 Stags, they all had the same brake with the handbrake leaver out of the brake drum.
The cable running against the trailing arm is not so nice.....
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16 hours ago, iani said:
The wiring isn't in the best of health, I'm prepared to buy a new loom but how realistic is it to fit one an a car that is assembled?
If you think there may be more wiring affected, replacing just one of them is not going to help you. Since you cannot be sure about the quality which is hidden behind the wrapping.
You did such a great job with the EFI, why stop there? If you are not sure, replace the loom. Add some mods such as additional relais and replace the original fuse box with a modern fuse box. I spent about 120 hours on my loom, but I added three additional relais/fuse boxes, and replaced a few connectors. I have no worries anything electrical happening.....that is a good feeling driving around.....
Jochem
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The rear brake cylinder only has one piston pressing either to the rear or front (not both) (Left/Right), thus the need for sliding back and forth, regardless of the handbrake mechanism.
If you want to get rid off this sliding feature, you need to replace the brake cylinder with a 2-piston cylinder (such as the Corsa or Citroen C1). But by doing this, you need to move the handbrake mechanism too, as modern cars have it.
Jochem
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10 hours ago, Waldi said:
Hi Jochem,
Here we have a classic example of differing opinions. Let’s agree not to agree on this one.
I do not know if Triumph considered this in their procedure. The same could then apply for ignition timing, valve clearance etc.Regards,
WaldiHi Waldi,
if there is scientific evidence to advance the timing due to coming slack, that would be great. So far, I have not identified this. Pete's example shows about 1° degree difference between the 5mm and 10mm slack (5mm is a new chain) @ crankshaft. Korrekt?
David Vizard writes this:
" If you have a choice of two settings which are equally spaced either side of the desired setting, then choose the one most retarded of the two as a delay in inlet valve closure is better than an earlier opening. "
Jochem
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22 minutes ago, Waldi said:
yes, one or two degrees. I’m not that brilliant, I think it was Tom Fremont who brought that up some time ago.
So a bit advanced as it will retard over time.
I do not agree with this. This is all calculated within the slack coming over time.
There are various statements in advancing or retarding the timing few degrees. Each one has its advantage. But I will stick to the Manual.
Jochem -
1 hour ago, Waldi said:
Also, while setting the timing, anticipate on the wear you will get during running the engine.
Waldi, what do you mean? for instance, cam @ full lift is 103°. So you set the timing at 102° since the chain will stretch ??
Jochem
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John, see pic. It is in german, but you will understand. max. 10 mm.
Best brand: IWIS Chain.
Jochem
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Hello Willie,
do they lock before the front brakes?
which rear brake cylinder is installed? 0.7", 0,75" or even 0.875" ??
Jochem
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Thank you Dave !
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On 2/7/2020 at 11:47 PM, iani said:
I received a replacement set of driveshafts from Alasdair on Thursday, my mechanic friend & I decided to refit a sound pair of standard shafts to prove the diff wasn't the cause of the noise, it wasn't as they are silent. One of the new pair of shafts seems to have even more play in it than the noisy one so I'm not sure I want to fit them, I will take it up with Alasdair directly, hopefully on Sunday.
Ian, what was your motivation for the cv shafts? Still cannot convince myself getting them.
Jochem
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I really want to use the Rimmer offered plugs....I just need to understand the circulation from engine to head and its return
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Nice !! I like the thermoswitch in the bottom too.
Can you send me a PM with pricing?
Jochem
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Hi Ian,
really beautiful. This finishes your EFI installation nicely.
Was there any particular reason Dan made the inlet oval vs round?
Jochem
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For my second engine, I am considering not using the heater water valve and tubing. Can I remove the heater valve and plug it? Rimmer offers an plug. Or is it recommended to have some kind of circulation thru the cylinder head by leaving the heater valve open?
by the way....is there any reason for keeping the heater at all?
Jochem
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for drive and prop, I use Nord Lock discs....
Oil pressure relief valve
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by JochemsTR
Hi Ed, not sure about the range....however, I would adjust the spring inside the PRV to open between 72 - 85 PSI....
maybe Ralf can give his input on this one....
Jochem