michaelfinnis
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Posts posted by michaelfinnis
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I would think that the coil would be heated by radiated heat from the engine in close proximity as much as by conducted heat through the mounting clamp. You would need some sort of heat shield to prevent that.
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2 hours ago, JohnC said:
You will get air bubbles in the injector lines if there is any issue with the injector poppet valve, the internal 'O' ring, or the non-return valve. I fitted translucent white injector lines a while ago and it really shows up if one or more line is getting air bubbles. My experience is that a small bubble (~2cm long) is pretty much as small as you'll get it, possibly because it's caused by air being drawn in as the fuel cools (?). That size bubble clears with no hesitation on starting. Anything in the 5cm range or larger causes a delay in that cylinder catching. In the case of my car the poppet valves all needed re-seating. The 'O' rings made a difference but didn't fix the problem entirely.
JC
John, what do you mean by reseating the poppet valves? I assume you mean pulling the tip and releasing, but is that any different from what they do when running?
Mike.
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You can get an old two spindle radio modified to have an auxiliary fly lead allowing you to connect and play an iPod or iPhone for not a lot of money.Google search should bring up some options.
Mike.
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9 hours ago, DRD said:
Nigel - most modern 2 seat convertibles don't have the side window. Presumably it makes life easier folding the hood and allows the use of a glass rear window.
Darren
My modern Boxster doesn’t have side windows. Whilst it does have a glass rear screen and vastly superior mirrors to a TR6 it can still catch you out with the blind spots, particularly when pulling out of parking spots and the like.
I’d be very wary of doing away with the side windows on my TR for that reason.
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Pump runs continuously with ignition switch on. The pressure is controlled by PRV, the pump does not shut off at the set pressure like the low pressure Lucas pumps used on a lot of British cars back in the day. I don't know how quickly the pressure normally drops after when the pump is switched off.
Without the engine running the PRV will be bypassing virtually all the pump output back to the tank once the lines are pressurised. With the engine running and consuming fuel the bypass flow will be much lower.
There have been lots forum posts on noisy pumps.I've used both Bosch and Lucas pumps, with different pipe arrangements, but neither have been particularly quiet.
Mike.
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I got my original cable repaired by Speedy Cables after some disappointing results with a new cable, pleased with the results.
Mike.
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13 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:
Andy,
I got fed up of the glued on door top pulls coming away, so on my TR5 restoration I will also be leaving the door tops plain in body colour.
I will be fitting the TR4 hinged door pull handles (p/No 650306.) My doors have the square holes punched but no fixings and as you say they are unobtainable. I’ve been considering tack welding 2 x 3/16”unf nuts onto a thin steel strip, something like the metal Signode banding, and then pop riveting that to the back of the door panel behind those 2 square holes. Check the hole dimensions because I think they are slightly too close together to suit the handle fixings.
Dave McDI fitted the door top pulls to my TR6 (it had TR4 type pull handles fitted when I bought it, but I preferred the look of the original). Fixed with spray upholstery adhesive and they are absolutely solid, never given any problems.
Mike.
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Ok, thanks for the reply
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Hi Lee,
PM sent.
Mike.
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16 hours ago, john.r.davies said:
The green cap was for the rare altitude tolerant M/u
According to information in Chris Wittor, Moss, Revington books and web pages the CR cars could have green caps, no mention of colour for high altitude units.
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21 hours ago, SeanF said:
I know this is an old thread, but I have a CR car which has a CP engine block fitted, but using the CR throttle bodies. I suspect that the CR metering unit has been fitted to the CP engine but am not sure. How can I tell?, and if it is a CR MU with a CP block, which timing method should I have used....and indeed would it matter which was used? I'm pretty sure I used the CP method back when I did it but can't really remember. I'm having some running issues so want to go back to first principles.
Many thanks in advance.
Sean
I believe CR metering units originally had green plastic caps on the top cover rather black as for the CP. They can be altered from one to the other during overhaul though, so I don’t know how reliable a guide that is.
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25 minutes ago, Mike C said:
I increased the charging capacity of my alternator and had to install a +/- 60 amp ammeter. You might consider doing the same if your ammeter's going off scale just after starting.
You could connect a shunt (resistor) across the ammeter terminals to change the range of it.You need to ensure the wiring is capable of taking whatever current you are passing though.
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An American spec TR6 has a marginally lower power output and higher weight than a TR7 (though more torque), so your TR7 may well feel a bit quicker.
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Totally agree with you Rob, I was just trying to make the point that it's hard to be dogmatic about a particular oil on the basis that "I've used it for years and my engine hasn't failed", or "my oil pressure is great". I agree that comparing the oil spec with guides like the one you have quoted is probably the best basis on which to make a choice.
Mike.
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I would have thought that to make proper technical assessment of the performance of a particular oil would require running an engine for many thousands of miles, and then stripping it and measuring wear. If it’s a poor performing oil it would still take a considerable mileage before the damage became apparent.The guys building and running race engines may have built up enough practical experience to make a judgement, but I don’t see how you recommend an oil on the basis of running it on a few long drives.
Has there been any serious scientific testing of various oils in these engines? A lot of people form opinions based on the oil pressure they see when driving, does this necessarily reflect how effective the oil is at doing it’s job?
Mike
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Are aluminium rads really better than copper, if so why? If it’s a matter of more tubes/fins then presumably that could be done with copper as well? Just curious.
Also, why the need to upgrade cooling capacity if the original works ok? If the cooling is marginal because of issues with the engine surely it’s better to fix the problem rather hide it by uprating the rad.
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My sons old diesel x-type jag failed mot on emissions.Double dose of ‘diesel magic’ cleaner in the tank and some miles thrashing it at high revs and passed retest ok.
Mike
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On 1/8/2023 at 2:51 PM, harlequin said:
Steve
I recently bought dual colour bulbs red and white along with tail/stop bulb holders to fit in the reversing lamp position, the white is for the reversing light and the red is for rear fog lights.
You are doing the right thing fitting LEDs as our cars are almost invisible on wet motorways with lots of spray
George
I’d thought of doing something similar, but using the red light as additional brake lights in lieu of a high level brake light.
I’ve been pleased with the H4 headlight and instrument panel LEDs I’ve fitted and I can see the advantages of using them. I don’t however believe LED’s necessarily make you any more visible though, at least not with the later TR’s. The conventional rear lights on my TR6 are just as bright as those on modern cars, although I realise that might not be true of older models.
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On 12/2/2022 at 11:25 AM, barkerwilliams said:
I have a PI. and have just come late to this thread and have had a quick read through and have noticed that I could find no reference to the fuel tank,
In a TR the fuel tank sits very high, remove the feed to the MU and fuel flows from the tank however much fuel is in it. At no stage can the MU leak back to the tank. Similarly the injectors are only a couple of inches below what would be the fuel level in a full tank and could generate little back pressure to leak back to the MU and the tank.
Does you starting issue relate to the quantity of fuel in the tank?
If you were feeling really keen a full tank and lifting the rear of the car six inches would ensure the injectors and lines were below the level of fuel in the tank and could not leak back and any poor starting could not be attributed to the injectors draining back.
There are two types of fuel pump a turbine pump or a gear pump. A turbine pump uses its rpm to generate the fuel pressure and usually operates at the 14 volts whilst running and when starting may have 10 volts are less and consequently spins slower. A gear pump pushes the fuel through meshed gears and is less prone to reduced pressure on low voltages. Once again if you were really keen you could disconnect the wiring on the fuel cutout switch and temporarily connect a second battery to determine if low voltage whilst cranking is affecting your pump.
In one of the posts above I saw connecting an airline to the injectors to check the pressure at which they open. If you are going to try this then point the injector into a bucket with a couple of inches of water in and with the injector 6" above the surface observe the spray pattern on the water surface. I have had injectors the do not fully open and only produce a semicircle of spray, good enough for hot running but reduced atomisation when cold starting
Because the TR has a low pressure injection system it does not atomise the fuel very well with a cold manifold particularly if the injecting - valve opening timing is not good and the fuel is not instantly drawn into the turbulent air entering the cylinder when a good fuel=air mix is not possible. Once the car is running the heat in the manifold masks the issue. It is normally combatted by the choke over richening the mixture inorder that than a larger volume of fuel can vaporise to a critical explosive mix.
As in a previous post start the car and once running for a few seconds turn off and leave for a few days to eliminate any issues of heat soak into the injector lines and creating a vapour lock.
Do you have any talcum powder? Liberal dusting around the metering unit fuel pump, pressure regulator and pipe unions is the one of the best trackers for small fuel leaks that typically evaporate before they leave drip marks.
I don't know what the pressure drop across the metering unit is, but the Lucas pump delivers over 100 psi, and the injectors open at about 50 psi, so the pressure at the injectors must be in excess of 50 psi. That is at least as much as a modern indirect fuel injection system, so hardly a low pressure system.
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Have a look at the slip rings as well as the brushes, I had similar symptoms caused by worn slip rings.
Mike
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1 hour ago, CP26309 said:
My standard Lucas Pi (CP) is the total opposite to AlexB. It starts first time when hot or still warm, but is a devil to start when it hasn't been used for a month. I have to leave the starter motor engaged for ages chasing it until enough cylinders are firing and it can run on it's own without starter motor engaged. Then I reset the Cold Start in stages as it warms up.
Same here, never had a problem hot starting. I would have thought a small leak back past NRVs or injectors would be most noticeable after the car had been left a little while. I've always assumed the slow starting after the car has been left for a few weeks is due to that.
Mike.
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The drive shaft u/j's can be replaced quite cheaply even using superior quality ones, as long as the driveshaft splines are not worn ( most suppliers list two grades of u/j). They should then drive and last as well as the original triumph items. An uprated driveshaft using modern cv joints is theoretically a better engineering solution, but whether there is any discernible difference in normal use I couldn't say. Justifying the additional cost is a matter of personal choice.
Consensus on hubs seems to be buy new rather than refurbished to avoid any risk of stub axle failure.
Mike
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Glass should sit against the rubber seal on the soft top side rails. Hard to see from your photo whether to problem is with the window, roof or maybe the windscreen frame. The vinyl of the top should be pulled down tighter to cover the velcro on the side rails, and the rails themselves should pull down so that they are aligned in a straight line.
Mike
Insulator block
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I’ve not had a failed coil in 6 years of ownership, and it has obviously been on the car much longer than that- and that’s with the standard factory set up bolted to the engine with no insulators. Maybe everybody is over thinking this?