roger murray-evans
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Posts posted by roger murray-evans
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Stuart,
You are a star!
Thankyou!
Roger
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I'm trying to get some of the detail correct for my TR2.
I have the 4 bonnet/hood 'rivets' but at the moment they are slotted dome
i.e. bolt heads and look to have been substituted some time back.
Can anyone tell me what material they should be and the
head size.At the moment 1/4" roundhead steel.
Thankyou!
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I have had occasion to do a bit of maintenance for an old chum on his
long door 2, and I reckon there are invoices from the top 2 TR experts
for money spent, that comfortably exceed that sum!!
In five years time that asking price won't look overly exceptional, just
takes a little getting used to!
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Tim,
I brought in a TR2 from Los Angeles in June.I used Hill Shipping on Sheppey.
Cost was around £2000 inclusive of additional marine insurance.(It's a long
way!).The car was in a shared container and off loaded into a covered (my request)
warehouse at a hauliers in Southampton.I arranged collection with the hauliers,
(basic ID required) turned up at their yard with car and trailer, loaded it up and home!
Hill also arranged the import duty (5%) and obtained the NOVA cert, just short of £700.
If your 3A is as early as you say, you won't need an MOT.Deep joy!
Roger M-E
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Thanks to all.
Mmy rather demanding list has been fulfilled!
Roger M-E
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Inge,
Much appreciated!
All the info I need!
Regards
Roger
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I understand that the original TR2 grab handle was of a single OD of the tube?(And
dipped black finish).
Can any one tell me what that tube OD should be please?My car came with the usual
tapered chrome item and I'd rather like to modify that accordingly,assuming the
mounting flanges and other dimensions are similar.
Of course, I would be in the market for the real McCoy!
On a similar subject, some Philistine has, in the dim and distant past, trodden on
the top of the scuttle, not only creasing the top panel, but snapping the timber
under-rail, which carries all the captive screws, nuts etc for the dash and scuttle.
I can repair it, but an unsullied replacement would be nice in the unlikely event that someone
has one lurking!
Otherwise, I have sourced an ally spare wheel cover to replace the incorrect steel
panel that came with the car.The reason it has a steel replacement is going to be
pretty evident once the filler has been blasted off the rear apron!
also.... having had the removable outer steel panels blasted and reduced their weight by 50%,
I decided the ally bonnet felt rather heavy, so invested in 5litres of stripper.
4 days and both sides back to bare metal.
Weight of bare bonnet 14lbs.Weight of paint and filler removed.12lbs! Damage is
limited to 4 very soft dents and no evidence of attempts to knock them out.Probably
should be grateful!
Roger M-E
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Tony,
Most important you decide whether you are fitting the original/replica Stanpart type
aeroscreens on the original type of trunnions, or the later 'Brooklands'
or 'Aeroscreen' type commonly available, either on replica factory type aero
screen trunnions or the universal efforts they are supplied with.
Until you decide which, any measurements are somewhat arbitrary!
Roger M-E
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I've rigged up the carbs and plumbing on TS70L in order to
check the engine works prior to removal for repainting the
underbonnet.
Having no functioning distributor at the moment, I fitted a Lucas
4VRA magneto which I picked up off Ebay quite some time ago.
The mounting and drive is typical Lucas and fortunately also is
anti-clock rotation.Needless to say, (ahem) it started instantly after filling
with oil and getting the oil pressure up (65psi)and said engine appears
to be well (1957 TR3 with low port head and 1 1/2" H4 SUs).
My question is whether or not magnetos were ever a factory option?
I have to say it does look rather different!
This (NOS) mag appears to have been made in Dec 1953 (I month out
for the car) and I assume for a tractor engine as the rotor arm has what I
believe to be a rev limiter built in.I've tried an ordinary Lucas distributor 4 pot rotor
arm and it all works fine.What I don't know is whether it has sufficient mechanical advance
built in and whether or not the lack of vacuum advance rules out it's use?
Ther's almost nothing on the web about them.
Roger M-E
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Possibly the remains of a previously broken halfshaft that
the repairer has not bothered to flush our?
Roger M-E
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PeterW,
Yes, good point I'd forgotten about the U-bolts.Actually I think
this axle may well have come off my last TR2, in which case
they may be sitting on a shelf in Devon along with the plates!
I'm hoping the Lockheed axle will , at least, last long enough
to get me 'up the road'.The a.m TR2 was delivered with a
broken half shaft (which wasn't broken when I viewed the car).
£6 bought a new one, which promptly encouraged the other
side to break about 50 miles later.I remember doing them both
outside in the snow.Very romantic!
The current car came with a later radiator, but I do have a resourceful,
old school radiator man who can move things about.
The wheels spats I have are the same as the one in your attachments.
If the SDF needs a pair to copy, mine can be made available so feel free to contact whilst
they are still cosmetically challenged and before they are transformed into things of beauty (or hideousness, if you are stylistically tested!)
Personally I'd have every car I owned fitted with wheel spats I love 'em so much!
They were originally, (and I believe from new)on a powder blue 3A belonging to Kent
group leader , Ken Lancaster.When he sold the car to a mutual friend, said
friend fitted wires straight away, and gifted the spats to me to me.The fittings
remained on the car.Contact was then lost.The fittings are probably still on the
car.It was the best TR I'd ever seen condition wise.Kent registered KKE*** or
the other way around.
They won't present much of a challenge to a panel basher to reproduce
but they do have a fair amount of shape built into them.Depending on the quality
of desired fit, I'd say they would have been best 'fitted' to the wings prior to painting.
If my new Windows 10 operating system permitted I'd attach photos of mine, but
I can't get to grips with it like the old XP system!
Roger M-E
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SDF.
Thanks gentlemen!
Roger M-E
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Ian,
Exposing myself somewhat here, but who or what is/are SDF?
Thanks
Roger
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AlanR, Ian and John.
Thankyou!
Roger M-E
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I seem to making some headway with my search for the missing bits
and bobs for the TR2.I thought I might have some luck in The Netherlands
for a source for the thermostat, but apparently they are all sold and the casting
equipment is proving difficult to track down!
(1)So I'm looking for a really manky old thermostat to start the process all
over again.Outright, loan, what ever may be available, in order to make the
casting patterns.Unless ,of course, there's a good'un out there?
(2)The bezels for the rear lights are also going to be problematic also.
Again, I need an unusable one, from which I can reproduce, in sheet brass,
a pair of replicas.I have a gifted 'metal basher' who can make.(At a price!)
Any front bumper irons? (I know repros are available, but they're very much
a last resort for me.
(3) Pushing my luck, of course, does anyone know a source, beg or borrow,
for the attachment paraphenalia, for the rear wheel spats?.
(4) Left hand throttle pedal assembly?
Aside from this, I've stripped and rebuilt the SUs with missing parts with a view
to running the engine up before removal to repaint the underbonnet area, replaced
the Canadian replica (non hand primer) fuel pump,sent the Lockheed master
cylinder off to PastParts, acquired all the other wheel cylinders, clutch slave
and rubber hoses, plus sourced a really grotty Girling axle in case of the inevitable!
Small instruments sourced and are in for overhaul.
Once I have pretty much everything I'll start the reassembly process!
Roger M-E
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I did manage to attend on Saturday, having had an appointment in Bristol,
but for 2 hours only unfortunately, so not qualified to comment on the weekend
as a whole.
What I have noticed, being in a pecunious position, is the £10voucher for Saturday
only visitors,having aquired one on departure,is only valid for another 3 weeks!
I don't remember seeing that bit advertised anywhere unless someone can point
it out to me, and as my membership doesn't come up for renewal for another 11 months
highly unlikely to be cashed in!
Roger
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About 1 hour and 25 screws removed from intact captive nuts, and all the
outer panels came off!
Some minor impact damage to the LH front inner wing and rear apron, inexpertly
repaired, everything else a wonder to behold.To say I'm happy would be an
understatement!
Roger M-E
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Regarding membership/old numbers, I think it is a change of policy, as
one of my very old chums tried some time back to regain his old
TR membership number and was told he couldn't, and I worked on that
principle when I applied, only to be told by said chum that he now does
have his old number back on a subsequemt renewal!
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Thankyou all for your kind welcome.It is much appreciated!
I did subsequently discover that one can obtain the original
membership number on renewal (in my case 55*) so it will now
wait 'til next year for my number snob instincts to return!
Afraid, PeterW, I currently have no blowers on any car, but
I do have a slack handful of Allards (which is from whom I
acquired my TR supercharger).Unfortunately, I had to evict
one of these from the garage to accommodate the TR.
The car did come with the aeroscreens, and I'll be in touch!
Can any of the US members suggest a means of tracking down
the historical background of my car at all?I've obviously applied
for it's Heritage certificate but I'd like to get deeper if possible.
I'm thinking the car was always a California vehicle.
Roger M-E
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Just recently rejoined the Register after about 30 years, having made
an impulse purchase of an early TR2 from Los Angeles which I picked up from S'ton
docks this week.
I'd been saving the wheels spats I was given for my 21st birthday (44 years ago!)
for just such an occasion, but the car is wearing what appears to be, original spec
wires.I let my factory aero screens go a couple of years ago during a period of
financial difficulty, and now somewhat frustrated by my decision!
However, my acquisition is a lapsed restoration project, which, going by the unused tyres 3 digit
DOT date codes, (3 digit ending in 2 or 4) was underway either 1982/4 or 92/4.
The story I got from the seller (a hotrod builder) was that the owner had 'passed away'
during an auto accident, which I assume was some time ago!
I seem to be missing some of the signature 'early' parts such as rear light plinths, ally
spare wheel cover original engine, (has a TR3 replacement) and the dreaded thermostat housing.
But I do have the ally bonnet with 4 rivets, ally dashboard, original non o/d gearbox,
rear wings and apron with the larger light mounting faces, 'no red line' rev counter and
of course the long doors.
If there's anything else I could or should be nailing down I like to know please?
The chassis, steering, brakes and suspension all appear to have been stripped, blasted
and painted black to a good standard.It still has the Lockheed axle and un-reinforced
rear damper mountings with which I'm rather familiar from my first TR!
The body is a wonder of what a semi-desert climate does for the preservation of old
steel.The tub has been blasted, repaired and base coated both sides in Ice blue, all flat panels look
original with no obvious signs of replacement ever, and all the outer panels look suspiciously
good, including the bottoms of the doors and inner sills.There are signs of the odd knock
on the LH inner wing and scuttle top which I will re-address for my own edification.
I have both sides of an A4 sheet of paper with a list of missing stuff, mainly brackets and
stays which should not be too difficult to source.
I'll shall be attending the 'do' next weekend A4 and wallet in hand.
Roger Murray-Evans
Broken Rocker Arm TR2 - low port head
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Jim,
The problem would appear not to be the valve seats, but in the choice of
springs or their setting up, also, of course, a basic lack of checking by the
'engineer' that the valves are going to operate correctly in operation.
If they worked OK before the overhaul then they still should!
I wouldn't think twice.Take the head off and make it 'the man's' problem.
Sorry if it compromises your trip.
Good luck
Roger