[Red and green tabs on piston rings]

Hi

 

assume left right /red green is irrelevant .   But don’t these tabs drop into sump ?

[Red and green tabs on piston rings]

Hi, using Grant, piston rings I have this red and green tab and the one page manual that comes with it is a bit unclear,  so do I just leave these little tabs on the ring , as my logic would say they would fall off and go into the engine? My understanding is they stop the ring from overlapping.

[ID spin on oil filter]

8 hours ago, Waldi said:

Yes, mine is facing downwards as well.

You can order a new seal-set from Moss.

Waldi

 Vrolijk Kerstmis Waldi!

Good point on new oil seals !   Is this make of oil spin okay ?

 

[ID spin on oil filter]

Hi

can somebody please tell me if this is suitable (Flotec) or not and I presume it has been fitted at the wrong angle?

Richard 

[Small Ends]

Hi all

Oil holes do line up fine and 2 gudgeon pins are literally needing to be knocked in, one not so bad, others slide in nicely.

SoI will bring them home tonight and leave on the kitchen table for a few hours and test.  If its a no, is it hard to put new bushings in?  Else, is blasting the existing bushes with a drill and wire brush a cowboy approach that I'd regret?

Richard  

[Small Ends]

3 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Try the gudgeon pins in their rod bushing, at room temperature (68 deg F), the pins should just slide through the bush under their own weight and without discernible play.

Mick Richards

Good point I am in a very good cold garage… a couple of them do slide through much easier whilst a couple are literally jammed

[Small Ends]

Hi everybody
I’m starting to strip down my pistons, and I’m concerned that the gudgeon pins on some are very tight at the top of the piston, meaning that I cannot turn the pin by hand

am I looking at some different bushings or do I need to do some reaming? Also if you look at the picture which I attach it looks to me that those lines indicate that this  gudgeon  pin been quite tight.

 

Thanks, Richard

[Piston Rings and Sizing]

Hi all

 

thanks for help.   Can anyone advise a bit on de glazing?   Is that the big wire thing you out on the end of the drill ?

Richard 

[Piston Rings and Sizing]

Hi all

I made some posts before on burning oil and seeing a light blue haze, especially on hard deceleration and given some good suggestions, but overall feeling was ring/piston/bore.  So I start my winter work and here are some basic facts of where I am:

• Complete top end rebuild and head rebuilt by a well know UK based professional 2 years ago
• Fitted lovely, still burning oil though....
• For this Winter, I have removed head, and sump, one piston out, by pushing from underneath.  Also big ends etc all look really good.
• Despite some recommendations to lift engine, prefer to keep in situ, limited space is main issue

Piston etc all looks OK (not that I am really an expert in any way), but I am confusing myself on what to do next....

 

• I do not have any measurement tools, less for a cheap digital gauge.  But will buy what's needed, but I am not a rich man!
• Was thinking of removing a ring from a piston and measuring ring to bore wall gap - - not totally sure of what to then do with results...
• Was also thinking of measuring the bore and thinking results may show some data on if bore is worn or not
• Was also thinking of over-sized piston rings, but guess I need to address bullets 2/3 to decide on what to buy - or do next

Much looking forward to some good practical help

Richard in Denmark - in a cold small garage

[Any thoughts on my camber/Toe?]

Hi all

I rebuilt my front end and put the car into one of those fancy shops that does all the measuring.  Any thoughts on the results and what actions (if any) should take?  Steering feels a wee bit light at 75mph on motorway but back country road with nice swerves etc it is quite good.

[Roof levers - pinions]

Hi guys what is your general consensus on this?   Previous owner just used glue so of course it recently just fell off and on inspection I can see that the screw is broken inside this pinion

ordering from the UK is a real pain due to Brexit so any easy ideas or suggestions on getting the screw out?

[Hazard Switch]

Hi . . is your old one missing?  I refurbed mine with a new copper strip.  Bid fiddly but its a simple design and keeps it original

Richard

[Using bit too much oil]

6 hours ago, DIYBOSSCAT said:

Hi Rich, another possibility could be the non return valve on the servo gone allowing a possible brake fluid ingestion to give a bit of smoke.

Hope you get it sorted.

 

Vince.

 

Hi

Never thought of that - - is there an easy check on this?  Brakes seem okay

Richard

[Using bit too much oil]

8 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

If the smoke is now white ? (instead of the original report of blue) then because you've not used the car for a while it could be condensation in the oil in the engine. The compressions are pretty even apart from No 5 where the addition of oil on the compression test has increased it by about 15% some % more than the others, did you check the tappet settings across the valves before the run ?

Did you just take the head off and send it to Peter Burgess (I think you mean, not Steve) and bolt it back on without changing the oil or doing any other work ?

I take it you didn't pull the pistons whilst the head was off ? ...pity, you could have checked the condition of the piston rings and if they are sticking and measured them and the bores for comparison and wear. There is a method to try and help the piston ring seating's which only requires driving...in a disciplined manner, for maybe 3-4 weeks 

After rechecking the tappet settings and ensuring they are equal take the car out and find a nice long gradual uphill gradient ( I use motorways). Starting on the flat approaching the hill make sure you are top gear 4th, and with maybe 500-1000 revs on the tacho below maximum torque, without knowing your camshaft I'd suggest your maximum torque will be about 3500 revs. So about 2500 revs on the tacho, then checking traffic behind is clear fully depress the throttle fully down to the floor and hold it there whilst the car accelerates up to about 4500 revs, then brake down to the 2500 revs and if you have enough gradient left do it again...and again...and again. I would carry out such a process over 3-4 weeks at least a couple of times a week, it's better than getting oily and more fun, BUT remain disciplined and don't use the upper rev range.

The full throttle on an uphill gradient in 4th gear fully loads the engine, this takes the engine into BMEP* (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) area, (Google it) where the power downward stroke of the piston achieves maximum cylinder pressure, and presses the piston rings out against the cylinder bores. This helps correct polished upper bores (too many revs doesn't push the rings out and polishes the bores) by the rings being pushed into the liner walls and gouging (we are talking microscopic amounts) of complimentary grooves into the bore face. This will maximise your compressions and reduce oil burning by allowing the rings to scrape the correct amount of oil off the bores into the sump.

This is the process I use when breaking a new engine build in prior to racing, or spend a little money and take the car onto a rolling road and ask them to bed the engine in. They can load the engine by applying resistance on the rollers, and watching the engine temperature apply full throttle for about 20 mins and bed the rings in. 

This BMEP running is always worth a try before excavating back into the engine.

Mick Richards

Thanks Mick for your feedback and help, here I go to answer some!

 

• Smoke colour - -well it was not a deep blue, just when I decelerated hard I looked in the mirror and saw smoke, so yes "white-ish" 
• Yes, wrong name, Peter Burgess.  I did not even think I could pull the piston when head was off, I was pushing my tech limits anyway to do head, always thought piston was full engine lift
• Tappets, I did a check a few weeks ago, they seemed okay, maybe after a month of driving I do a re-check
• For piston no5, I think I check again, I know I inadvertently put too much oil in No5, so maybe this is an issue
• For BMEP - fascinating . . only living in the flattest country in the planet will mean a few km outside of the city . . but think I know a place!

Thanks again, Richard

[Using bit too much oil]

Hi everybody

returning after a couple of years of parking this job due to lots of other personal stuff

so I went for a long drive and on quite hard deceleration I get what looks like smoke …maybe white coming from the back?   So similar to what I posted awhile back.  Also I must’ve used almost half a litre oil  for a 400 km drive

since then I have had the cylinder head completely rebuilt by Steve Burgess and I am sure he did valve guides  and I have now done a compression test of which I attach for results so I’m now a bit stuck on where to head to now

The top row is dry and compression the bottom row is wet compression

Thanks for all of your help and future suggestions

Richard 

 

 

[TR6 glove/cubby box lamp Retainer Moss P/No 623920]

On 6/25/2022 at 11:40 AM, RogerH said:

Hi Richard,

I will make you one in second 1/2 July

 

Roger

Thanks Roger I will PM you my brothers address and again you are a wonder!!!

[TR6 glove/cubby box lamp Retainer Moss P/No 623920]

Begging bowl….

I also need one of these and willing to pay huge amounts of money to anybody who will help me!!!

Richard 

[Shims to adjust camber on front wheels]

The thing is I’m not sure if the shims I am ordering well actually help here?   It looks to me that the cam is very excessive but I think the tracking is way off so I think the next best step is to get that done first and then see where I am??

[Shims to adjust camber on front wheels]

Hi Peter

Thanks for your help and yes the link that you send me is the local guy that I use but it is not a particularly large warehouse he has

I guess I may have to try some of the German suppliers

Richard 

[Shims to adjust camber on front wheels]

Hi

 

After a full front suspension rebuild I can see we camber is quite out on one of the wheels and think I will need to put in a shim or two but the my local supply shop has sold out.

ordering from the UK to Denmark due to Brexit is a real pain so I was wondering if anybody else has any other suggestions as I have a car booked into a mechanic for a week time for both camber and wheel alignment.  I guess one question is are shims generic?

Richard

[Fitting my brake Pistons]

Could somebody please tell me if I am doing this right or wrong?

First I think I have the rubber on correct but the rings retaining rings - i’m not sure I have it on correct does this pitch look okay?  Pausing on the other three until I hear back!!

 

 

[Brown wire on light switch lever]

1 hour ago, michaelfinnis said:

Hi, the wiring diagram in the original triumph workshop manual shows the wire colour for the headlight flash as purple (P)p to a bullet connector, then brown (N) from there to the switch, as shown below.

Mike.

that makes more sense now!

[Brown wire on light switch lever]

Can somebody please help me on how it actually works?

Richard

[Brown wire on light switch lever]

Hi all

I cannot quite understand what the brown wire is for on my light switch lever  because my car is a 1970 Tr6 and from my guess it’s for pass to flash which is only on the TR5?  Also it is not shown on the wiring diagram either (brown wire)

 Secondly, I’m quite unsure how it actually works…

Richard

[Weekend ahead and electrics have gone crazy on lighting]

14 minutes ago, RobH said:

I've not had one to bits but normally the 'wiper' contact (from the white/purple ) inside the switch is wide enough to make to both contacts when in the second position.  It makes to the red/green wire alone in the first position and to both the red/green and the blue wires in the second. 

The diagram of the switch in the advance autowire schematic doesn't show that properly. 

 

 

Ah . . ok.  Whats also odd is when I move to switch position two, the red/green goes off at fuse, so I think this switch is a good starting point but what I did not say is I did not do a voltage test  (I only used a circuit tester)  at the red/green at fuse as theoretically, the backlights and front running lights should have come on for one click and they do not.