AarhusTr6
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Posts posted by AarhusTr6
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Hahaha!!!!
2 hours ago, mleadbeater said:which type of snake is it brewed from?…
Mike
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Hi
seems a bit dodgy !!??
Richard
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Just now, RogerH said:
Richard,
that may be a good price as the uprated one (Triumph Tune) from Moss is £120 which is on back order
Roger
Thanks Roger !!
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Angloparts wrote and they are made by Powertune
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Cancel - wrong post and can’t delete !
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Hello all
I am doing a backend rebuild of my TR and driving from Denmark - presently visiting my son in the town of Mechelen where there is a large parts supplier called Anglo Parts. I was thinking about popping into Anglo parts and buying some new brake shoes, but I can see they are €51 compared to £21 from Moss.
I’m travelling to the UK for Christmas so can get the Moss ones back in my hand luggage but I’m just wondering if there is any quality difference and why such big difference in price?
Anglo parts:
https://www.angloparts.com/en/part/053.065
Moss:
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Thanks for the constructive replies
I am about to hit "order" so my stuff arrives for my UK Xmas trip but on this subject of brackets, is it worth buying those adjustable brackets as I read using shims only adjusts toeing, but not camber. Any thoughts?
Richard
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Hi chaps
In linkage with my last post on a back end renovation of my suspension, I hope to just cleanup and re-fill my back dampers, but being away from blighty I'd like to pre-order and collect at my brothers, but looking on Moss I cannot see any gaskets or other? Has anyone else rebuilt these? I read 0-20 oil i standard so was thinking 30WT.
Ed has a good guide, but he made his own new cork gaskets, something I have never done but hey, that's why I bought this car :-)
https://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-34/TR6-34.html
Richard
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6 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Richard,
the brackets can/do crack. Have a look at the top and bottom faces in line with the vertical attachment holes.
If you can see a crack - they are broken.
If you can't see a crack - they are breaking
Shims, bolts, bushes (complete kit) worth getting.
Roger
Hi Roger, thanks for replying
I believe you are a bit of an expert on the subject of metal stress if memory serves me right, so are you saying replace a brackets.?richard
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Hi all
I travel to blighty over Xmas from Daneland so will bring some bits back for my upcoming rear suspension rebuild over winter, but am unsure if I should pre-order these or assume mine are ok after 50 years? Its not big beer money but why waste if the originals are still good?
Note - don't have time to strip backend before coming over so cant really check on existing condition.
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8 minutes ago, stuart said:
Glad it worked OK, many years ago back in my mis-spent youth I was taught that trick by professionals
Stuart.
Haha! Say no more !! :-)
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On 10/28/2023 at 5:29 PM, stuart said:
Im not sure that that would work as the lip that the boot rubber sits on would be in the way also dont forget the rear of the boot lid sits over and down behind the rubber. Slide hammer will take the barrel out with less damage.
Stuart.
Stuart - thanks for slide hammer tip - without that tip I would have likely gone at it like a mad dog with a drill with poor results !
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Got it open using a slide hammer ! Not sure what to do next - assume I may need to clean up all the lock mechanism now and figure out how I fit a new lock barrel
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Typically it’s safe here lRoger but we have ghetto areas near me in Aarhus and these people just take from others when they want something rather than work for it,
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Hi both
i can get the key in but cannot turn the barrel.
Richard
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Cheers Stuart
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16 minutes ago, stuart said:
In the old days we used to use a slide hammer, screw it right into the key hole and a few good sharp pulls on the slide would take the barrel right out.
Stuart.
Thanks - do all slide hammers come with a screwing mechanism ?
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Hi
some scum bags tried breaking into my boot. They have done some damage where I can see they tried a screw driver to lever open the boot and also they have damaged the lock barrel quite a lot so I now cannot get into the boot.
before I go drilling any lock barrels I am unsure if this even works so open to advice on opening it.
thanks
Richard
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7 hours ago, harlequin said:
Hi Richard
Can you post a picture of the bit that pulled out?
It is probably a Rivetnut, if so most garages will be able to replace them.
George
I could George but it’s just a hole :-)
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Changes to above - when I got together man cave and looked harder they are big rivets! Is this the correct practice ?
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Hi guys
I somehow pulled out a mounting bolt for my luggage carrier. They all appear to be black plastic studs and for the life of me, I cannot figure how I can put a new one in as how do you then get a nut to screw into from the other side of the hole, as the back is not accessible. I am happy to drill out or prise out the other plastic studs.
Seems I have an original carrier.
Thanks
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On 4/16/2023 at 7:14 PM, John L said:
Richard.
From your photo of the distributor drive position, it would appear that the position is the same as the manual, correct, BUT what is the crankshaft position? It should be at 4 degrees after TDC on #1 firing stroke, can you confirm that please?
You need to have the rocker cover off to confirm the position of the valves opening and closing, dont forget that the number 2 valve is the inlet one.
On the side of the distributor you will find a Lucas number and a date code, please post those 2 on here so we know which one you have fitted. We presume this engine did run nicely before you decided to take it bits?
Did you actually download the workshop manual from the TR site?
John
Hi
setting it about 8-10 degrees before TDC…. Can’t recall why but think I read static was set at 10 BTDC
Think maybe you nailed it??!!
richard
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Hi colleagues
so I managed to get it started! There was a few things which were that the carburettors were not truly connected so when I pressed the gas pedal only one was moving correctly. It does though run lumpy as … and on a test drive had almost no power so I was wondering if anybody feels that my distributor drive needs moving along one more cog because the taco cable is way too tight and I don’t seem to be able to adjust it any more ?? I was also going to do various other checks, including a compression on each cylinder and plug checks as well today.
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1 hour ago, John L said:
Whats the item you have connected to number 2 sparkplug wire, I presume its a spark indicator?, so are you getting a spark/flash there, when the engine is cranked?
Whats the black wire connected to the + terminal on the coil? That should be the 12volt feed with ignition on, usually it was white wire.
Which electronic unit is fitted, Petronix, accuspark or other?
check the slow running screw on both carbs, turn them in to just open the butterfly a small amount, you said you could hear the front one sucking perhaps the rear needs to be a bit more open.
What sequence/ how did you adjust the tappets, and what clearance are they set too?
John
Hi John
Its Petronix, the black is to alternator (its just some heat shrink) and other two on + are to dizzy, but now its with points so + to alternator and - to dizzy
Would this OD fit my TR6?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi chaps
I have a 1970 CC with 74 engine and would love OD.
I saw this add on FB and wondered if any of you know if this could fit or what more questions I should ask ??
https://www.facebook.com/groups/tr6marketplace/permalink/1309883456303036/
If you can’t access this I can screenshot more details