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AarhusTr6

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Posts posted by AarhusTr6

  1. Hello all

    I am doing a backend rebuild of my TR and driving from Denmark - presently visiting my son in the town of Mechelen where there is a large parts supplier called Anglo Parts. I was thinking about popping into Anglo parts and buying some new brake shoes, but I can see they are €51 compared to £21 from Moss.

    I’m travelling to the UK for Christmas so can get the Moss ones back in my hand luggage but I’m just wondering if there is any quality difference and why such big difference in price?

    Anglo parts:

    https://www.angloparts.com/en/part/053.065

    Moss:

    IMG_2399.png

  2. Hi chaps

    In linkage with my last post on a back end renovation of my suspension, I hope to just cleanup and re-fill my back dampers, but being away from blighty I'd like to pre-order and collect at my brothers, but looking on Moss I cannot see any gaskets or other?  Has anyone else rebuilt these?  I read 0-20 oil i standard so was thinking 30WT.

    Ed has a good guide, but he made his own new cork gaskets, something I have never done but hey, that's why I bought this car :-)

    https://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-34/TR6-34.html

    Richard

     

     

  3. 6 hours ago, RogerH said:

    Hi Richard,

    the brackets can/do crack.  Have a look at the top and bottom faces in line with the vertical attachment holes.

    If you can see a crack  -  they are broken.:o

    If you can't see a crack - they are breaking :P

    Shims, bolts, bushes (complete kit) worth getting.

     

    Roger 

    Hi Roger, thanks for replying
    I believe you are a bit of an expert on the subject of metal stress  if memory serves me right, so are you saying replace a brackets.?

    richard

     

  4. Hi all

    I travel to blighty over Xmas from Daneland so will bring some bits back for my upcoming rear suspension rebuild over winter, but am unsure if I should pre-order these or assume mine are ok after 50 years?  Its not big beer money but why waste if the originals are still good?  

    Note  - don't have time to strip backend before coming over so cant really check on existing condition.

     

    brackets.PNG.f74f685bef0ed42ea5f3d6e6e0898c7a.PNG

  5. On 10/28/2023 at 5:29 PM, stuart said:

    Im not sure that that would work as the lip that the boot rubber sits on would be in the way also dont forget the rear of the boot lid sits over and down behind the rubber. Slide hammer will take the barrel out with less damage.

    Stuart.

    Stuart - thanks for slide hammer tip - without that tip I would have likely gone at it like a mad dog with  a drill with poor results !

  6. 7 hours ago, harlequin said:

    Hi Richard 

    Can you post a picture of the bit that pulled out?

    It is probably a Rivetnut, if so most garages will be able to replace them.

    George 

    I could George but it’s just a hole :-)

  7. Hi guys

     

    I somehow pulled out a mounting bolt for my luggage carrier.  They all  appear to be black plastic studs and for the life of me, I cannot figure how I can put a new one in as how do you then get a nut to screw into from the other side of the hole, as the back is not accessible.  I am happy to drill out or prise out the other plastic studs.

     

    Seems I have an original carrier. 

     

    Thanks

  8. On 4/16/2023 at 7:14 PM, John L said:

    Richard.

    From your photo of the distributor drive position, it would appear that the position is the same as the manual, correct,   BUT what is the crankshaft position?  It should be at 4 degrees after TDC on #1 firing stroke, can you confirm that please?

    You need to have the rocker cover off to confirm the position of the valves opening and closing, dont forget that the number 2 valve is the inlet one. 

    On the side of the distributor you will find a Lucas number and a date code, please post those 2 on here so we know which one you have fitted.  We presume this engine did run nicely before you decided to take it bits?

    Did you actually download the workshop manual from the TR site?

    John

     

    Hi

    setting it about 8-10 degrees before TDC….   Can’t recall why but think I read static was set at 10 BTDC

    Think maybe you nailed it??!!

    richard 

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