Rogcastle
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Posts posted by Rogcastle
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Hi Tom
Great idea. Just a observation I thought you should put a washer behind the split pin or R clip. Maybe someone better informed could confirm or not.
Roger
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Hi Pascal
If I was you I would double check that 3 & 4 plugs are sparking at idle if they are I would then swop either 3 or 4 injector with another injector to see if problem is transferred to that cylinder. If it doesn't I would check the balancing of the butterflies with particular attention to 3 & 4. It's not too difficult using a 2 thou feeler gauge. You should be able to just slide it in at the bottom of each butterfly. Have you got a manual as that will help. Next maybe compression check or Tappets.
By the way have you recently bought the car. Interested to know as to whether it was like it when layed up.
Best of luck
Roger
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Hi Pascal
A little bit of history would help. How long has it been like this and did you do anything before the problem occured. This might point to the problem. I assume you put all the new bits on after the misfiring developed. If so it could be the butterflies out of sync. Are the spark plugs wet when pulled after idling and have you checked that 3 & 4 injectors have not been swopped round when put back.
Best of luck
Roger
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Definately worth a look at.
Any ideas on a quick fix should the cable/pedal break when out and about. I thought maybe you could disconnect the choke cable to the MU and adjust the idle screw on the choke to increase rpm a bit and then use the choke as a throttle. I haven't tried it, but has anyone else or any better ideas?
Roger
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Thanks Ian will have a look when I get back from hols.
Roger
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Hi Ian
Have been following your posts with interest so great news that you have finally solved the problem. I have recently partly solved poor performance issues on my TR6. In my case it was new wiring/relay to a Bosch pump so appreciate how you are feeling.
I also know the throttle doesn't open fully so thanks for the tip and will have a look at the peddle brackets.
Roger
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Hi Waldi
Your probably right about about the tolerances for the Mu and Injectors, but I think the important bit is to choose a pre filter that will not throttle the flow rate from the tank and the pump doesn't appear to need a filter that filters the fuel to say 10 micron. My arrangement bought not by me, but by Po through a well known supplier had two Bosch filters either side of the pump of around 10 microns. A bit overkill really. Not sure how big a filter your looking for, but my Bosch filter is part no 450 905 005. Hope it helps.
Roger
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HI Waldi hope your Engine install went well today.
I would recommend that you consider the two filter option with the Bosch pump for Max flow and protection.
Pre filter to protect pump with 50-100 micron filtration and to give max full flow from Tank which should eliminate cavitation. Post filter to protect MU and Injectors with filtration of 10 micron. Then hang the pump and filter in the wheel arch again to get Max fuel flow. I recently changed my pre filter to 55 micron from 10 micron as i suspected it was restricting fuel flow to the pump and I noticed a big improvement in pick up. Together with adding a fuel pump relay and bigger wire direct from the Positve terminal on the battery the car has been transformed.
The following make interesting reading regarding the filters
http://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/131145-fuel-system-filtration
http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/TB_101_InletFilter02.pdf
regards
Roger
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Hi Bill
I would definately go for the metal reusable filter as it is 55 micron filtration, whilst the paper one is 8 micron. I have recently changed my post filter with Bosch pump, with the Bullet Sytec. On doing a bit research the general opinion nowdays is that 10 micron is too fine for a pre filter and above 55 Micron is fine. The cheapest reuable filter element I found on the net was from Advantage Motorsport. £20.34
regards
Roger
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Gary + 1
Roger
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This was posted by John l in 2008 on this site. hope it helps.
The non return valve, just stops fuel draining back from the injector, so keeping the pipe full all the times. I took the spring out carefully, and rubbed the rubber disc on some very fine wet and dry paper, and it reomoved the ring where it had been seating.
Roger
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Hi
Prestige sell recondioned Banjo bolts for £13.95 each, problem is I think they are closed for three wks.
Roger
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Hi Mark
Sorry to hear about the car. It must be very disappointing after having just bought it. Do you know anything about it's history. If it's been stored for a few years this could throw up a number of problems.
From personal experience I always replace things one at a time and then check to see if it's cured the problem or made it worse. It just gives you a reference point.
Have you taken the plugs out and checked the conddition and that you have a spark at each plug. If so have you replaced the leads in the right order. That goes with injectors as well. Also you can't always assume that replacement parts work. Have you checked the injectors are spraying correctly. There are plenty of posts on how to do it if you google it. I had a similar problem when I bought my TR6 running roughly and and not revving, it turned out to be one faulty injector.
Best of luck
Roger
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Thanks for that one Waldi I will try ro remember that One!
Roger
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Hi Trevor
I went through a similar problem last year. Have you checked the push rod length on the new M/C against the old one. I found the one on the new one was shorter than on the old one. A quick swap cured the problem.
Also had problems getting the air out of the system. A good trick is to use a piece of wood to hold the clutch pedal down to the floor overnight. For some reason this gets rid any air in the system. Good Luck
Roger
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in General TR Technical
Posted
Hi Tom
My understanding was that it kept the cotter pin or whatever tight and and also the rotation wear is on the washer rather than the Split pin or R clip. Maybe I have been wrong all these years. Would be good to know the right way.
Roger