Rogcastle
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Posts posted by Rogcastle
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Hi Waldi
You could first try cracking open the flex fuel pipe to the Mu to bleed the system of air. This could stop you getting full pressure to the injectors. A very fine mist from the injectors could be air in the system or low fuel pressure. You should feel a firm pulse through the injector fuel lines. Have you got the Lucas service and fault finding manual for the Pi system. I can send you a link if you haven't. Might be of help. Best Luck
Roger
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Hi Waldi
Have a great day tomorrow and get some sleep tonight you might need it
I have never had to start from scratch bleeding all the injectors, but a favourite on the forum is to do what the mechanics used to do in the good old days, which was to lay some old rags on the air manifold and then lay all the injectors out on the rags. Then do the usual turning the engine over until you get one to squirt and then put that one in a jar and carry on with the others until four are squirting. At that stage put all the injectors back and start the car. Sounds simple, but probably not unless you get lucky. Pull out the injector needles if no petrol is coming through and at same time have injectors upright and tapping them has worked for some.
Best of luck
Roger
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Hi Andy
Quite a few people reported a similar problem this time last year. It could be because of the cold weather and thick oil resulting in sluggish O/D.
regards
Roger
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No problem Marco I will give you a couple of months notice, probably September.
Thanks
Roger
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Hi Marco
Looks like great tool and Waldi has convinced me to get a proper one when I strip the front suspension down at the end of the year. Will be in contact with you then if Ok
regards
Roger
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Hi
Pete + 1
I agree why do you want to adjust the push rod. If it's because your clutch isn't engaging fully I think you should look else where for the problem, could be any of the following.
Air in the system or not bled properly. Faulty Master cylinder. Worn MC push rod, clevis pin or brake pedal hole worn. Wrong MC push rod to short. Clutch operating mechanism.
If you still cannot solve the problem you would be better getting a adjustable push rod at the MC end as a last resort.
Best of luck
Roger
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Hi Jochem
I had a similar problem after adjusting the TB's on my Cr. I found by re adjusting the throttle linkage (no 100) and throttle cable I was able to get the engine to idle happily at 750/800 rpm. I am not sure where the spring is positioned but will have a look tomorrow for you. Stick with it.
roger
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Hi Sean
Does your pedal gradual go to the floor, if so it's a problem is likely to be with the MC as there are two circuits one to the front and the other to the rear. If you have a leak on either, your pedal should only go halfway to the floor. If the car has been standing for a long time the bore of the MC could be pitted. In that case you need a new one or if you have a original one it could be worth having it refurbished.
Roger
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Hi Steve sorry to hear about your problem. Cannot help I am afraid as I haven't yet converted mine yet.
Isn't annoying when manufacturers/Retailers don't put in any instructions in with the parts. It isn't as though they aren't expensive items. I think when I come to do mine I will buy them direct from the makers like Superflex who at least have a customer service line where you can talk to someone if you have a problem.
Hope you solve your problem
Roger
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Hi Jonathon
Looks like you have done a good job there. I had a kit from TRGB, but it didn't come with a new wire from the relay to the pump which was a bit odd. Only thing I would suggest looking into is your fuse rating. Most of the modern fuses are continious rated and not Blow rated. This would mean if yours is continious rated at 10 amp it will only blow at 20 amp. In that case I wouldn't go up to 15 amp probably a bit high for a pump.
Roger
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Hi Steve
I am in the middle of scraping the underseal off my TR and will be using a slight variation to Rogers
Bilthamber hydrate 80 instead of Kurust meant to be better after tests
https://www.bilthamber.com/
Bilthamber seam sealer for seams
Bondarust primer very popular in marine industry then
Stonechip rubber type http://www.express-paints.co.uk/stone-chip-texture-coatings/
Paint on top of stonechip if you want.
I don't think Hammerite paint is as good as it used to be and there are better alternatives. Ok for lawn mowers maybe.
The above come from recommendations on this forum and on line.
Best of luck
Roger
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Sorry about that. Let us know how you get on.
Roger
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Hi Gareth
I have same problem which is at the end of a long list of things I have to do. James Paddock have them CP for £45 which sounds about right to me.
regards
Roger
http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/fuel-system-6
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Hi John
Your steering rack might need centering.
Roger
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Hi Rob
+ 1 Waldi & M
Have just come across this problem. In most cases, with a bit of luck you can re tighten the bolt as the socket will exert pressure on the other side of the bolt face. Keep cleaning and oiling the thread at the same time tighten and undo the bolt gradually until its out. Be patient and do it slowly. If the socket still slips try every socket or ring spanners in your box including metric sizes until you get a tight fit. Last resort try a cold chisel.
Best of luck
Roger
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Thats what got me hooked all those years ago.
Roger
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Paul I might not have made it clear but the filter is positioned in the spare wheel well, same as Andrews.
Roger
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Richard, I have seen a cover supplied by other suppliers, but not by TRGB as far as i know. However, surprisingly it doesn't get that dirty and both pump and filter are sealed units. Only the wiring to worry about!.
Roger
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I thought the same, but it did reach.
Roger
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Hi Kev
Did you have your foot to the floor when driving in the pic as it looks like your car has the classic squat when accelerating, which is one of the many many things that we love about our TR6's.
regards
Roger
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Hi Ian
I have the TRGB Bosch pump kit which was actually fitted by TRGB in 2014 prior to my ownership of the car and it is designed to fit in the wheel arch for two reasons, it keeps the pump cooler and fitting in the wheel arch is lower than the boot to maximise the fuel flow from the tank. They also installed a larger tank union to also aid flow. The kit is the same as yours apart from the brackets which are the same as Andrews.
Basically the filter is in the same position as Andrews maybe a bit lower and the pipe from filter to pump runs along the floor and out through a drilled hole and gromet on the boot wall. Pump is then installed just below in the arch. I think it would be fairly easy to install. I did change their pre filter as it became clogged up and being a pre filter doesn't need to be so fine at around 10 micron. I swopped it for a Bullit filter which is 55 micron with optional metal filter. I think its the same as Andrews. I think Prestige also use the Bullit filter in their kit
I also bought the TRGB wiring kit and was very disappointed as it doesn't come with a uprated wire to the pump which I thought was the main point of it. The relay is meant to be secured in the passenger footwell near the flasher unit and main live wire should reach the battery via the drivers side on the positive terminal. I then installed a uprated wire to the pump as this recommended as the Bosch pump can draw up to 10 amps.
Hope this helps
regards
Roger
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Have you tried wire clamps as recommended by Marco.
Roger
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Chris
I don't think it's about not trusting the work I do. I have been working on cars since I was seventeen 49 years in total. It just makes sense to me. The car will be in the garage whilst I work on it and when I am finished I will take to MoT station.
Roger
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I have looked at the DVLA site and my interpretation is that provided your car is registered historic and is ok according to the originality rules you dont need to get a MOT and you can if you like dip in and out and still get one done whenever you like. I assume if it fails it fails and will be tested under the new rules maybe?.
My Mot runs out this month, but I will be getting my test done in the spring as its in the garage for the winter and I will be working on it during that time. Seems to make sense to me to get done after I worked on it.
Roger
Her first start
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Waldi