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Rogcastle

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Posts posted by Rogcastle

  1. 6 hours ago, JochemsTR said:

    Andrew, one of your break shoe clips is wrong. It needs to be turned 180 degrees. 

    I soldered mine, since they became loose. 

    Jochem

    Hi Jochem

    Thats a interesting one, I'm not saying your wrong,  but I have always installed the clips pointing the same way, although they point in the opposite direction to those on Andrews car.  I looked on Buckeye Triumphs and they intall them pointing the same way.  Is there a right way?

    Andrew have a great trip.

    Roger

  2. Hi Dave

    Looks like number 2 injector is causing your problem so I would first swop that injector with another one, other than number one.  Bleed the injectors and take it out for another drive. If you still have a problem with no 2 then you know it's not the injector. I would then work backwards and have a look at the one  way valve or o ring at the Mu. I might first check that your wiring to the pump is not overheating as that can cause your symptoms. I had similar problem and it turned out to be wiring.

    best of luck

    Roger

  3. Hi Dex

    I can't really say that I have noticed. Did you clean the disc after installing to make sure there was no grease or dirt on them. If yes I would run a metal ruler over both discs and pads to check they are flat if your worried.

    I do remember a few years back when installing new pads on a Audi that the they were slightly concaved. It puzzled me at the time, but thought maybe they were designed that way to help bed them in.

    Roger

  4. Andy

    I agree with you about inbuilt reflectors and Police enforcement,  but your not correct saying only pre 1/1/75 vintage can display Black number plates. The rules have changed and all Historic registered cars can now display Black number plates as stated in previous post.

    Regards

    Roger

  5. 53 minutes ago, Bill944T said:

    • haveappliedtoDVLA
    • beregisteredwithinthe‘historicvehicles’taxclass.

    They appear to be inclusive, ie requiring both to be satisfied. If they weren't, in theory you could apply for permission to use them on a 57 plate say............

    I wonder how an insurance company would view a claim from someone driving into the back of my 1973 to pre 1979 car saying it could have been avoided had I not dispensed with the reflective plates?

    It is after all, a safety related change coming into force in 1973, not a vanity one.

    Regards

    Bill 

     

    Bill you worry to much. The vehicle has to be at least  40 years old and registered Historic before you can use Black plates.  I would worry more about all the Historic cars on the road that don't have MOT's.

    I actually found the GOV.uk link on Footman James classic car insurers web site and I am sure apply to DVLA means  either for tax or Sorn.

    all the best

    Roger

  6.  The TR6 is actually perfectly legal having Black number plates!  It’s legal providing cars are registered Historic. Copied from Gov.UK  :rolleyes:

    Traditional number plates for vehicles made before 1 January 1973
    Vehicles made before 1 January 1973 may display traditional ‘black and white’ number plates (for example, white, silver or grey characters on a black plate). From April 2019 vehicles manufactured before 1 January 1979 are also able to display traditional ‘black and white’ number plates. You must:
    • haveappliedtoDVLA
    • beregisteredwithinthe‘historicvehicles’taxclass.
    The 40-year exemption date rolls forward automatically each year on 1 April.

    Roger

  7. Thanks Waldi/Mike/Walt

    I was interested in knowing what the correct capacity was as I have my  empty axle out at the mo and it's an easy fill rather in situ. I will next time top on a level surface once I have worked out an easy way as my TR is a bit low to get underneath. A bit weird my owners workshop manual says 1.27 litres and that whats gone in.  Out on the road hopefully Wednesday, first time this year as the winter jobs took a bit longer than expected.

    Waldi I have attached a link you asked for showing a Bosch filter as 8 Micron. I expect most post filters around that figure. Better late than never.

    Regards

    Roger

     

     

     

     

  8.     Talking of over filling what is the correct capacity for a TR6 Axle. I have the original handbook for a 1975 which states 1.27 litres, a Bentley manual which states the same and a Haynes manual which states 1.42 litres.  I assume 1.27 is correct?  Can anyone solve the riddle . The Bentley manual does mention1.42 for a pre 1970 USA model!  Maybe that is the answer.

    Roger

  9. Hi John

    Bosch pumps are not great suckers so you want as large a pipe as possible from the tank to the pump. I have large bore outlet from the tank 10mm pipe work and a  Sytec bullet filter with a reusable  55 micron metal filter and then a finer Bosch F5005 post filter which is approx 8 to 10 micron. You want a coarser pre filter to maximise flow.  The powermax filter is cheaper than the sytec so I suppose you could use that filter with a metal coarser filter filter which I notice they supply.

    Best of luck

    Roger

  10. Hi Tim

    I have just changed all four UJ's using a vice which did the job, but was hard work. I had one joint like that and it usually means it's either  worn out, lack of greasing or dirt in the joint. That tool looks the business and a good price as well.

    Roger

  11. Hi Ian

    Waldi I think you meant lbf/in2.  Just checked the Lucas manual and pressure at the MU should be between 100-110 so +1 to Waldi.  Ian if you still have a problem I would check your wiring as your pump draws a lot more current than the old Lucas one. I had similar symptoms and it turned out to be the wiring.

    Roger

  12. Keith

    Good luck it will be worth it in the end. I bought mine a couple of years ago and the body has had a fair number of new panels  over years and the rest is not too bad apart from the chassis which needs too much welding done. I am not going to sell it, so fancy a new chassis  in a few years time. Let us know how you get on and when its on the road,

    Roger

    .

  13. Hi Keith

    I like the idea of being able bolt them on and they look like they fit well. I will copy it when I eventually take the body off my 6  which I suspect I will need to do sooner than later, because of a rusty chassis.

    Roger

     

  14. Hi Paul

    Do everthing as recommended above, but test it first by tying back the catch with a cable tie and  slowly closing bonnet, at same time  checking  that the  plunger is centred correctly and not catching on anything. Can't be to careful !

    regards

    Roger

  15. Hi Waldi

    Congrats well done a great feeling I am sure. From what you say your timing was too retarded so you  could have left the leads where they were and just advanced the ignition.  Sounds like you need to double check your timing marks on the flywheel.

    Roger

  16. Hi Waldi

    DD(Martin) makes his own distributor caps, condenser and the points are Lucas with a fibre heal instead of plastic. I would definately recommend the condenser as it has 3 meters of wire windings as opposed 1.5 meters from the opposition.  Have a look at his web site its quite interesting.

    Roger

  17. Sorry about last post!  I was going to say after reading your last post, is that PRV might be ok, but your pump might not be. Also I would connect up the enrichment choke it will make life  a lot easier for you. I can see that you have loads of suggestions what to do over the weekend and I am sure one of them will lead to cracking open the Champagne or maybe a beer.

    Roger

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