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Rogcastle

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Posts posted by Rogcastle

  1. I am afraid it's an old car and I am not sure I would  even have left a car idlying in the seventies for that long.  With no air being driven into the engine compartment it would get pretty hot in there and cause as keith said fuel vaporation or maybe dirty plugs. Modern cars automactically adjust the idle and we no longer have to blip the throttle like  we had to in the old days.  Also the PI runs rich at idle.  Glad you got back home Ok and did  it pass the MOT.

    Roger

  2. Phil

    I would look first at the bits that you have recently changed before doing anything else.  Start with easiest to check first, leads/plugs and then electronic distributor.

    Best of luck

    Roger

  3. Stuart and Andrew

    Thanks for you advice.  I think I will try the digging out method as the other wing attachment points have been nicely finished off. Not sure if I am going to have a problem matching the paint. It was painted in 2003 in Ford Purple Velvet  (Escort 1600E met colour)  I like it,  but both my sons said Dad you can't buy a TR6 in Purple!  You can't please everybody it would seem.

    Roger

  4. Waldi

    I think Stuart is right in fact I am sure he is. Seam sealer was used on my TR6 by previous owner and then painted over.  It's cracked and annoying as your eye goes straight to it.  What do you do now?.

    Roger

     

  5. Here's a Tech Bulletin from a American pump manufacturer called Aeromotive regarding pre filters when using an in line filter, makes interesting reading and makes sense to me.  I have been quite happy with my Bullitt filter which has a metal filter that can be cleaned. I take it out every year and give it a good clean and am happy that I am getting full flow to the pump over the next year.

    https://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/TB_101_InletFilter02.pdf

  6. Hi Steve

    That Sytec is designed as a post filter near a modern injector rail.  It has filter Micron of 20 which is far to small for  a pre filter.  I would go for  a  Sytec Bullit filter( as fitted by Malcolm at Prestige) with a metal filter that has a micron filter of 55. For the post filter you could then have a Bosch filter at around 10 micron. I agree the best place for the pump and filter is in the wheel arch where it will  get cool air.

    Roger

  7. I waited 45 years to buy my TR6 after being smitten in the seventies.  The Tr6 is sports car  and should be driven as intended,  that way you get the rewards and as a bonus  a smile on your face,  just change your UJ's more often if need be.

     

    Roger

  8. Hi Steve

    You shouldn't need to dip the clutch  when engaging or disengaging the O/D especially the J- type overdrive which should engage/disengage smoothly.  A lot of people just keep their foot to the floor.  Great fun.  However, if you have a tired rear end you might want to  dip the clutch! 

    Roger

  9. Hi Chris

    There is lots of info on this forum on this subject. You need to be a bit braver and try bleeding the injector with the engine running.

    First of all get a large jam jar,  start the car and then pull out the injector and point into the jam jar. If you don't get a spray then point  the injector upright. If there is still no spray after a minute try gently pulling out the pin at the top of the injector  at same time as holding it upright. If you only get dribbling at this stage more often than not putting the injector back in will get it spraying. I don't bother with the jam jar and put lots of rags on the manifold and point the injector at them. I would not advise doing this with a hot engine.

    If that doesn't work you can blow air through the injector and it should pop at around 50 PSI.  This should clear out any debris that might be in the injector. I use a electric tyre pump with a camping bed adapter.

    Best of luck

    Roger

     

     

  10. I thought  the other day that  the camber on the rear of my tr6 looked a bit negative so I used my iphone which has a level measurement on it which can be used on the vertical. I used a straight edge on the outside of the tyre with the phone and the readings  were rear 1degree neg and front 0 degree on both sides. I know its not very accurate and only shows steps of one degree,  but it made me happy. It only took a minute. Maybe useful for a quick check.

    Roger

  11. Mine also came with Dot 5 Automec and bills show that TRGB did the conversion  in 2014 with new MC/wheel cyl and upgraded Goodridge Hoses. I have had no problems  with a firm pedal and nice clear purple fluid after 5 years.

    Roger

  12. 10 hours ago, SeanF said:

    Hi Roger,

    Depends what "lead in the direction of" actually means. Does it mean that the open end should face towards the direction of rotation or face away from? The picture clearly shows the front clip with the open end upwards so either the words are unclear or the picture is wrong. I genuinely don't know. I currently have mine with the open end of the front clip upwards but I'm very happy to be corrected.

    Best,

    Sean 

    Hi Sean

    The picture is right for the right hand side of the car and wrong for the left hand side if  you see what I mean.

    Roger

  13. Yes Neil is correct just checked in the Bentley manual.  Learnt something today so will have another job to do next week. Interestingly the Haynes manual has a seperate spring and retainer washer, can't get that the wrong way round.

    Roger

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