Rogcastle
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Posts posted by Rogcastle
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John
Can I ask what the problem was.
Roger
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They are made from Viton which is ok with E10 petrol.
Roger
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Hi
I bought mine from Chris Witor a couple of years ago and they are still Ok. I would give him a ring if you want to be sure.
https://www.chriswitor.com/
Under TR6
regards
Roger
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Hi Paul
From your description of when you changed down a gear to second, it sounds very similar to when you try to change gear without using your clutch. The gear will pop in when the engine revs match the gearbox gear. This would I guess point to a problem with your hydraulics not operating your clutch. Slave cylinder/Master cylinder or plastic pipe. Bearing in mind the amount of effort you have put in so far I would replace the lot.
Best of luck
Roger
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Hi Dave
I found the following on the AA site which might help. I would check the age of the tyres as you might have been sold old tyres. It doesn't sound as though they have been damaged by Sun light as the cracking is on the inside of the tyre. I would stand firm and expect them to replace them as they are not that old. Have you been in touch with the seller.
Best of luck
Roger
https://www.theaa.com/driving-advice/safety/tyre-life-and-age#age
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Good point Stuart. Maybe I could amend the tip by adding take the car out for a drive using the O/D after filling up and then check the oil level.
Roger
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I read a good tip on the Forum to fill up the O/D, which was to jack up the front and then fill the gearbox with a bit more oil than the capacity. Leave overnight then drop the car down in the morning and with a bit of luck it should overflow a little bit. If not top up.
Roger
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Are you aware that there are two chambers to the master cylinder. The front chamber is for the rear brakes and the rear chamber for the fronts. It’s not easy to spot the front chamber. It could be that there is no fluid in the front chamber resulting in no rear brakes and the fronts need bleeding.
Roger
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Hi Andrew
Andy is right the paper filter for the bullit filter is too fine for a pre filter. The SS filter is 50 microns whilst the paper one is about 10 microns. It should with a bit of luck get rid of the noise.
Roger
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Hi Andy
I think you will find the rear ones are for the seat belt and the front ones the plate is on the top. Nothing attaches to it. Your Tr looking good.
regards
Roger
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Rob
Here's a link on a similar discussion back in 2014. You can even review Bob's comment way back then.
Roger
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Hi Colin
Try TRGB they have the large bore outlet for £8.94.
https://www.trgb.co.uk/search?q=large+bore+fuel+tank+outlet
regards
Roger
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Let us know how you get on, if you continue reading the article it might help you adjust the Camber when the time comes.
Roger
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Hi Marco
This link might help. It's at almost at the end of the article.
Ride Height Change (Spacer) = (1.8) X (Spacer height)
Roger
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Colin
I bought my o rings from Chris Witor and they were fine. You could give him a ring.
Roger
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Hi Colin
They will go in if your sure you have the right size O rings. Make sure the rings are well lubricated and inside the tube, then do as Gareth suggests.
Roger
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If they are spraying OK then thats fine. If set to low they will dribble and to high they night not spray at all.
Roger
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Hi Colin
I have dismantled the injectors quite a few times and replacing the o rings is quite easy after you have done it few times. Be careful when taking off the metal retaining ring & do it in a plasic bag if your worried. I use a piece of wood to press out the inside ,shaped like a round pencil. Use a bit of vasaline when putting on the o ring and re assembling as there is a ridge in the bore of the injector, to avoid damage. I then use a tyre pump with a inflatable bed adapter which is coned shaped to check that injector is popping off of at about 50/55 psi. Easy to adjust.
Good luck Roger
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Hi Pete
Unfortunately there is no one tool to deal with removing old underseal from my experience. I have been working through this horrible job over two winters and have still not finished although I have taken it at a leisurely pace. I have found if the underseal is really old and dryed out a selection of old wood chisels can scrape it of quickly followed up with a rotary wire brush on the end of a drill with white spirit liberally brushed on wiil remove the remaining underseal. More recent underseal is best removed with a heat gun and stiff scraper followed up by white spirit and rotary wire brush and drill. For removing paint/rust and any remaining underseal various wire wheels and nylon abrasive wheels either on a drill or angle grinder work really well. Good luck you will get a lot of satisfaction when you are finished.
regards
Roger
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Hi
Worth checking that the steering wheel shaft to the steering rack is as straight as possible so that there no big angle at the UJ.
Roger
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Jerry
Will do.
Thanks Roger
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Graham Thanks for your info and I will check whether the caps are alloy or not. I don't think they will be as the engine was rebuilt in 1989 and has done around 40,000 miles since.
Waldi/Mick
I think you are right it is probably a sticky valve. I am a bit worried that if it happens again at higher RPM that it will wreck the engine. There was a lot of oil around when I took the cover off and the tappet was moving smoothly in bore. I think I will assemble the push rod and then take out the spark plugs and turn over the engine to check that the valve is not seized. If ok I will do as you say Waldi then run the engine to check that its oiling properly.
Many thanks I will let you know how it goes.
Roger
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Looking for help please as I have never experienced the above before in spite of driving some really old cars with worn out engines in the early seventies. I have just taken out my TR6 1975 CR to the bottle bank for the first time this year approx one mile and on the return journey and almost immediately I notice the engine was misfiring a bit( not unusual for the first journey of the year). Then I noticed a rattle from the engine above 1000 RPM. Stopped immediately had a looking thinking I had left something under the bonnet, but no such luck the noise was coming from under the rocker cover.
I limped home keeping the revs below 1000rpm avoiding any tapping. On investigation at first I couldn’t see anything wrong after taking the Rocker cover off. Then I noticed that the inlet valve push rod on cylinder No 1 was disconnected from the rocker and resting on the next push rod cylinder no 2 which must have been the source of the tapping. The only work I carried on the engine apart from changing the oil and filter this year has been adjusting the tappets. I am pretty sure I adjusted it correctly as I always do them twice.
Ok so on a quick inspection there seems to be no damage to the push rod it looks straight and the cup and ball ends look fine. The rocker appears to have no wear and the adjuster and nut are not loose. Has anybody experienced this before and what the likely cause is. My hunch(hoping) is that I haven’t adjusted the tappet correctly although there was no loud tappet noise during the first part of the journey.
I have partially lifted the tappet using the push rod by suction and it seems to lift smoothly and nothing seems to have broken off it. Should I take it out to inspect and if so suggestion on the best way to do it would be great.
Any ideas on what I should do. I am leaning towards having a look at the Tappet if I can and if ok reassemble the push rod and see what happens.
Roger
NOS Gearbox dry stored...
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Have fun?