TR Mitch
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Posts posted by TR Mitch
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Thanks Marko. All good news for the recovery of classic prices.
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Neil, perhaps you could point me to some details/links of cars that were advertised or better still sold north of £30k late last summer and I'll put him right. Who knows, might even help my own insurance valuation & potential resale value
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Mike, thanks for the info. Peter, I had mine professionally valued soon after purchase to obtain the best declared value I could get for insurance purposes. The valuer did some homework at the time and did not find any that were available or that had recently sold for any more than £30k. There might be a £40k stored timewarp out there, but my feeling is that in the current market, £30k would buy you the best there is.
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If Don King is still in business, I can highly recommend them.
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Great article on 10 "targa" top classic cars pitching them against each other in pairs, the TR5 (UPD 478 F) compared with a 1973 911.
I guess this car belongs to a forum member, it looks remarkably similar in finish (colour/trim/condition) as mine. Can't believe they put the price range at £20-40k though
The TR5 on page 92-93 if you've only got 5 mins in W H Smiths
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An alternative method would be to fit a right angled bracket behind the dash so the socket was facing downwards just behind an accessible area so you could plug in easily but the socket not visible or dangling when not in use. This item from same Ebay seller I mentioned in previous post.
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I bought a complete kit wired already for £6 from Ebay, found a hole to pass through (oil pressure pipe) and connected straight to the battery. The socket is not mounted to the dash (don't want to cut any new holes) but it lies neatly behind the radio, easily accessible for the GPS etc. Note that this type of socket won't accomodate a real cigarette lighter but didn't want one of those anyhow. The Ebay seller is Towzatronics
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I bought one from an Ebay seller called pjcovers555 that cost £28 and I am very pleased with it, quite soft, so no paint damage, and fits very well.
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Robin
It sounds like you've hooked it up properly, Ian's description is just the same but the other way round and as these relays don't have a polarity it matters not, as long as the coil (85/86) get 12v on one side and earth on the other, then whatever you put on 30 will be seen at 87 when the coil is energised (and again, vice versa with those two).
What happens if you touch the wires together that should go on 30 and 87 (ie bypass the relay). Does the pump run then? As Ian suggests, you should really fuse the supply from the battery. The fuse is there to protect the cable rather than the devices as if your connection to 30 shorted to a body panel the cable would catch fire, at worse setting fire to your car, at best damaging adjacent cables in the loom.
John
Thanks for the Bosch DIN codes, I was trying to think of a tidy way to add cable idents to my relay and other minor electrical mods but didn't fancy using letters and long words, now I can just slip on numbered cable IDs and be done!
On the topic of wiring fuel pump relays, putting a small, hidden, single pole switch in the relay coil circuit (in series with your connections to 85/86) will make a cheap and cheerful immobiliser. Similarly, it's the perfect place to wire in the crash switch you might wish to add to any fuel injected car that doesn't already have one. Will post on that topic separately.
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Don't be hard on Robin, he deliberately left me half a dozen little jobs as an introduction to ownership
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Thanks, will order correct part to be sure it works reliably!
Whilst on heating/ventilation, can anyone help with the cable clamp & screw that secures the heater box flap control to the side of the heater box? Cable & flap there, but not hooked up yet.
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Thanks very much Neil.
Edited to add, found the lever there on the side of the H frame too, so perhaps a bit of coathanger can be employed now?
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Could someone tell me how the scuttle panel air vent is supposed to work or be hooked up on my TR5? At the moment the spring clips are there and the panel can be opened and closed by hand but the Moss TR5/6 catalogue (p200 items 41~45) show a "vent lid operating rod" which is not present on my car. Despite scouring all the manuals I have (Bentley/Haynes/Heritage), I can't find reference to this or where it is hooked up.
Should this air vent be controlled from somewhere in the cabin? Where does the other end of that rod attach to?
TIA
Colin
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where did you get the 'cap' chromed
Don King on Canvey Island - see this thread.
Trust my baby is still on form
Around 500 miles so far and been doing little jobs, oil & plug change, high idle "choke" cable setting sorted, cam corner smoothed, domed nut fitted and spring tensioned so that works well now. Fan rewired round to fuse box, lights fitted & wired, butterflies finely balanced, ignition timing reset using vacuum method, instrument lights refitted, new metal no plates fitted
Here she is up at Prescott ...
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Nice looking car Robin! Well done. Doesn't look like much to do to it although I'm sure you'll find something to keep you busy. I guess you could rechrome the oil cap for a start
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and the crowds
Or lack of! That was one of the nicest features of the day, plenty of room to move around. No queues to get in or out either. Quite the opposite of Goodwood events of late. I've made a diary entry for 20th May 2011 already!
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Click the picture in the post so it opens larger then click it again, or right click to save depending on your set up.
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A couple of mine from yesterday ..
A lovely day out and hard to believe we're into October!
And edited to add my own outside Dumbleton Hall hotel ...
TR5 in Classic & Sports Car this month (Feb 2012)
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted · Edited by TR Mitch
Or perhaps the passing of the TR as an enthusiast's car, as it is elevated into the realms of an investment commodity
Alec, I'm not so sure about this. I have never restored a classic but I followed the mantra to buy the most expensive one you could afford as it is not usually possible (with "everyday" classics) to recover the money invested in a restoration let alone the untold hours of labour invested.
Invoices supplied with mine, as expected, far exceed the selling price of the car. As TRGB is a business, I bet they are not in the habit of restoring then selling for less than cost, hence the £40-£44k asking prices are based on actual costs to the business. Most classics however are restored by enthusiasts and it would be nice if their time and labour was reflected more accurately in the resale value of their cars.
Breaking even on a restoration isn't quite in the league of "investment commodities" and as Peter suggests, I bet there still isn't much fat in it for TRGB either.
Edited to add, it wasn't that long ago that a £45k TR5 was being labelled "The most expensive TR in the world"