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TR Mitch

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Posts posted by TR Mitch

  1. I've got the Revington "works" light bar fitted but have the chrome bumper/overriders nicely rechromed and sitting wrapped up in the garage.

     

    What is the consensus on the better look for the TR5? "Works" light bar or original chrome bumper?

     

    Is the light bar too radical or does it suit the colour/style of this car?

     

    tr5_blue.jpg

     

    haselmere5_sm.jpg

     

    badge_bar1_sm.jpg

  2. The spec of that amp is interesting! 2x100W. Probably "PIAMP" as we used to call these hyped up output figures, "Peak Instantaneous American Music Power", not the good old RMS (root mean square) that the more honest British amp makers provided. I see the THD (total harmonic distortion) is quoted at 4watts output. I wonder what it would sound like at it's claimed 100W. Or even at 20W?

  3. Which year is the radio? The later ones were stereo which means you shouldn't be connecting the speakers in series nor parallel but one on each channel. Wiring two 4 ohm speakers in parallel may burn out the radio power amp section as you're subjecting it to just 2 ohms, ie almost a short circuit.

     

    The hissing sounds like you're still on radio and the MP3 input hasn't toggled across. Try sticking a metre or so length of wire into the aerial socket, touching just the centre pin. A length of wet string is often all you need to get a signal. Tune the radio and see if the hissing turns to a station. Then once that's working, play with the MP3 input.

     

    People mod radios in a variety of ways. Does he say how his MP3/aux input switch works? Is it auto or is it by pressing a channel on the radio preset?

  4. For years I've been using Autoglym polish with the gloss protection coat. Last year I tried their new HD wax. Really good stuff and my twice a year "detailing" session has all the cars looking great. Not sure I'd spend £180 a year on sample pots of various stuff though.

  5. John, I'm not convinced the intumescent sealant is the right thing to use for the panel. I think a panel adhesive/sealant would be better. The intumescent stuff only expands with heat and I believe the scenario we are trying to prevent here is fuel transfer from the boot into the cabin followed by fire. By the time there would be enough heat to cause the intumescent stuff to work, it would be too late. It's expansion properties no use in this situation either as the fire bulkhead panel gaps must already be sealed to prevent passage of fuel in the first place.

  6. Another user of Castrol moly grease. I tried oil but my grease gun wasn't good enough to pump oil. With grease pumped in, it's easier to see it come out of the end of the trunnion. Regular squirts once a year ensure it's not drying out.

  7. This forum, like many using the same software does not allow searching of three letter words or TLAs (three letter acronyms). A bit of a nuisance when looking for TR5 oil or hub or rpm or nut or rim etc!

     

    Help is at hand with Google's site search.

     

    Open Google in a new tab the click on SETTINGS/ADVANCED SEARCH at the bottom right of Google's home page. Enter www.tr-register.co.uk/forums in the "site or domain" box with your search terms in the search window box above that.

     

    I know this tip has been posted before but I had trouble finding it so posting again in this help section.

  8. Philips Nightbreakers

     

    I just discovered these too. One of the lights went in my Audi A4 and it requires unbolting and removing the whole headlight assembly so I thought I'd give these a go (mine are Osram Night Breakers, not Philips). Similarly, I put a pair in the missue Ford Fiesta. They are a great improvement over the standard H4 and H7 lamps. They've got a blue tinge in the bulb so they look whiter out front but the beam cut off etc all looks a lot sharper than before. For £15 a pair, they are a cheap upgrade.

  9. Quite easy to find hiding places for this device. It will text you, assuming the phone antenna lead isn't cut first, if the car moves outside of a 100m "fence" area or if the power is cut to it. The big downside to this unit is that you have to turn it off with it's external switch before you disconnect the car battery when doing any work on the car else it sends texts until the sim credit runs out. The various commands you can send it by text don't include "ignore battery off".

     

    To get to the unit's own power switch, you have to make it fairly accessible, making location a more limited choice.

     

    There is an iphone app for the controller to save sending cumbersome texts to set/unset etc.

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