Peter Douglas Winn
-
Content Count
781 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Peter Douglas Winn
-
-
On 7/3/2019 at 2:49 PM, Z320 said:
Mike
Thanks a lot. I was sure there was a sensible reason I just could not work it out.
I know how hard it is to please everybody. I myself have been on the orga teams many times over a period of thirty years. I think if you can please 70% you are doing very well. Mike I am already on the waiting list for both events. We are looking forward to seeing everybody again. I would have loved to see the transport museum, perhaps I can do it privately. The family have told me how good it is.
-
I agree. I think I know the answer now, if I would ask the question garden centre or motorbikes.
-
Don't get me wrong. I am not complaining. As a Kid always wanted to go out with my father on his BSA Bantum then afterward his Norman. He took me to the factories, Years later I drove bikes without a license
Went to Brands Hatch every Boxing day to see the sidecars racing etc. Have had long talks with Jihn Surtees about his Norton days. So I am quite happy with the decison to go to the Museum. I just wondered why an International car club event, go to a bike museum. Especially as there is a very high content of Ladies at these meetings. No more, no less.
-
Looking at the programme of events for next years Euro meeting, I was suprised to see a car club going to vist a motorbike museum. I just wondered what was the thinking behind this decision. I would have thought that something connected with cars would have been more appropriate. I am sure there must be a logic somewhere but at the moment I cannot work it out.
-
That's great but what is the system for numbers after these 6 numbers. I have a suspicien that the next 2 numbers are very relevant in identifying which of the cars models are involved. e.g 38 would be an early model TR6 and 76 a late TR6. Then what is a 36?
-
Mike one can see that the important numbers are 3rd 4th 5th and 6th positions there looks to be a link between these 4 numbers and the individual model and make of car. As an example I have found out that 32/3004 is for a HIllman Minx & Rapier II whereby 32/3017 is for a Hillman Minx Series II.
-
A new member in the club ask me what the numbering on the overdrive mean? I could not answer this question. All I know is the first 2 numbers reflect the step down ratio. 22/XXXX for an "A" type or 27/XXXX for a Vovlo "J" type. I also know the Laycock provided O/Ds as far back for Standards and Renowns in fact they even supplied American Motors manufacturers. They were widely used in England, Sunbeam, MG, Reliant, Jaguar and Hillman, Ford Anglia 100E. In fact Ferrari , Fiat even Aston Martin and Jenson had O/Ds. I cannot find an explanation of the numbering.
-
Yes they both work well. I will print out ev erything that has been said and go to the garage and have a play.
-
20 years ago I bought a bowden cable greaser and I have never bothered to use it. Perhaps I should. I know it is the speedo as the speedo flickers and makes a noise. When I put my hand under the dash when driving (slowly) I can shift the lay of the cable and the noise vanishes. Unfortunately it always springs back to the noisy position. Hence my original question. I don't know what is happening when I put my hands under the dash, I need a second person to look into the engine bay. I don't have that person. I have checked to see if there are any sharp bends, I could not find any, all were within the curve radius limits.
-
I just don't know. I have never heard of that one. If nobody knows how to check the cable can anybody say which way the cable should run? I believe my cable is correct but I always assume that the majority know better.
-
Have checked the other drum and all combinations rimms, drums, left and right and found that in one position the drum does not sit flat on the new Rimmer rim. I have found a combination that worked, torque everything down it seems to be OK now. Interestingly as I was torqueing one wheel down the was suddendly a "poing" like a metal snapper. Thanks everybody
-
Roger
quote "Regarding being careful not to over torque the nut - if you use a small 1/4" ratchet then 'nip up plus a bit' that would put you pretty close to the correct value if you haven't got a small torque wrench. Not perfect but functional.".
I checked this one out. Would you believe it I could not fault this statement. The values were perfect. Take a plastic medal
I have found out that the drum is not sitting flat on the new Rimmer rim. I will now take off the other rear rim and see if it is the rim or the drum.
-
Sorry that was a slip up. I should have said 30 lbs.
-
Then with a 6" lever that's only 7 ft lbs or am I wrong?
-
I cannot fell any movement when the drum is off but I think that maybe because the leverage in compared to a 16" wheel is too small. I have a 1/4" ratchet it is about 6" long. I have just remembered I have a luggage scale which means I can easilly measure a 30 lbs pull. I give it a go and see what happens. Thanks so far.
-
Roger I did exactly that the shank dimesions seemed to be OK. I was worried about the torque so I did not use much force. I used the standard washer one off.
-
I am just wondering if the nuts are butting up on the shoulder of the stud an not tightening the thing down. Anybody had this one? The short ends of the stud are in the alu. There is a definate loose bearing feeling allbeit small. I have just put a new rim on from Rimmers. I will do a wheel swap to eliminate this possible cause. The bearing has 2 to 3/1000 play.
I dont like the idea of lots of packing washers. That seems to be hiding a problem somewhere.
-
Can anybody tell me the correct torque values for the 5/16 studs and nylocs and studs, attaching the bearing housing to the swing axle. I have various values all simular but with a large spread, TR6, TR5, TR4A, MK1 Saloon, MK2 Saloon, Stag. I know the problem with steel and alu but so far I have been lucky.
-
My speedo is playing about again. I know it is a cable run problem. How does one working on his own get it set up right. It seems to keep on changing its position inspite of cable ties. How do I check this stationary.
When driving hand under the dash is great but I don't know what is happening under the Bonnet and when I stop I can't see any chnage of routing.
-
Mike I have had both and the rattle (at certain speeds) was always there.
-
Having driven Triumphs for 48 years on the continent, often with trips involving 4,000 miles. I can only say a good recovery insurance is needed. Everything else is a portion of luck. Murphey is always correct. I have had touring kits from Triumph for several cars. I have never used a single item. On the other hand who is going to change the inlet valve (1 Off) the road side? This is one of the recommended spares from the Triumph touring kit??????????
-
If it is not too long then most mechanics fit the ball and spring using thick grease to hold them in place during assembly.
-
And another question The black plastic Escutcheon - Handle to Door Panel which way round flat side towards the panel or flatside towards the handle? I am having a problem putting the pin in place. I think I need 4 hands.
-
Update the panel is on. Now the panic the springs for the handels are different, one with the small end pointing outwards and one with the big end pointing outwards. I taped them to the old panel to be sure which way round is correct and the dammed tape came loose. Therefore I have no reference and I cannot remember which is correct. On top of that I didn't notice that I had put them on differently. HELP.
How to clean exhaust soot
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Peter Douglas Winn
too many tttttts
When I run a bit rich, I get a sooty backend. Ok, to date I have just washed ,it scrubbed a bit and it was gone. Now with the modern pertrol no matter what I do (without using paint stripper or the like)
I cannot get the backend, plus bumper clean. Any Ideas?