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mattyb

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Posts posted by mattyb

  3. Imported TR6 how to register car

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Evening Dave

     

    I've looked at this because of my own imported 6

     

    As far as I know you'l need to MOT your car on its chassis number (either insure it on the chassis number and drive it or trailer the car to the MOT station, once you've got it MOt'd -

     

    follow this the instructions here - https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/new-registrations

     

    using a v55/5

     

    The cost should be £55 - not looked at a v55/5 but I assume that if your 6 qualifies, you wont have to pay for road tax and can register this exemption on the v55/5

     

    Your car should already have a NOVA

     

    I'm sure that someone who's gone through this can add a few hints and tips !

     

    (Hoping to check out the steering rack on my 6 this weekend and will let you know how I get on - thanks very much for all help with this Dave )

     

    cheers

     

    Matt

  5. From across the pond .........The arrival ....

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Cheers Neil

     

    Rear wing unbolted tonight - came off with no problem what so ever and should be able to re use all the set screws ! - small amount of rust to deal with

    personally, I'm quite pleased with the Robey Panel - much better that some of the Moggy Minor stuff I've used before

     

    regards

     

    Matt

     

    They can be made to fit no problem , and as good as you will get new.

  7. From across the pond .........The arrival ....

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by mattyb

    My order from Rimmer Bros arrived Friday (they were having a 15% off sale on Triumph parts ) Pleased with the service and everything very well packaged.

     

    one of the parts sent was the sill Rimmer bros part no 850281 - turned out to be a Martin Robey panel, so fingers crossed this will be the best fitting sill panel you could hope to get.

     

    http://i.imgsafe.org/d4c4738.jpg

     

    Also with regards to repairing the battery tray, I may try the chassis breast plate lower repair section - part no RR1321 - the spacing of the fluting is different, however this panel is big enough to cover the battery tray and at £35 I think its worth a try-

     

    Stuart if your reading this what are your thoughts ?

     

    Was unable to rebuild both the master cylinders - the bore of the clutch had a distinct ridge plus the hole in the fork for the clevis pin was very oval !

     

    On the brake master - despite soaking the screws that attach the reservoir to the cylinder in 3 in 1 and leaving for a few days, I could not get them undone.

     

    Moss do the Left hand TRW clutch for £34 and will look to get one of the EU manufactured brake. new clutch slave cylinder also fitted - the old one looked so badly encrusted I didn't even attempt to check the bore.

     

    The rear flexi hoses were very stubborn and found the easiest way to get them off was to remove the 3 way brass connector after cutting the flexis.

     

    The rigid pipes were also stubborn and will need to make up some new ones as well.

     

    Calipers off and will push the pistons out to see what there like - I use an old grease gun filled with old brake fluid and a bleed nipple soldered on to grease gun hoes - good for about 3000 psi and I find this easier than compressed air.

     

    Have taken the petrol feed pipe off and will be replacing this.

     

    The speedo cable had snapped at the gearbox and left just enough of the end cable in the gearbox drive to get it out with a pair of snub nose pliers !

     

    Not sure how much back lash there should be in the diff - I fear there may be too much in mine ! but hey, had time to admire just how solid the chassis and tub is whilst under the 6 !

     

    Rear US spec bumper removed (all the nut, bolts and set screws came apart with ease !) - very rusty chrome and did have cut outs in the centre section for the US spec overriders (whichare very heavy ! I may weigh them to see if there removal will gain me an extra HP !!)

     

    All good fun

     

    Matt

  8. LED dash illumination

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Hi Matt ~

     

    ​My rear lights are Stop/Tail only. I have separate indicators. I'll hunt down the supplier and send you a PM.

     

    Cheers ~

    Tom.

     

     

    Many thanks Tom and supplier and specification noted.

     

    As far as I can remember, my MGA only has the one bulb in the rear lights ( a stop/tail) I think (and hope !) that these bulbs will function in the MG

     

    cheers

     

    Matt

  9. LED dash illumination

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Hello Tom

     

    Great mod and very effective

     

    Your 3A rear lights look very similar to my 1958 MGA rear lights - Are the combined light/brake and indicator ? if so, I'd be very interested in knowing where you bought the bulbs from and specification.

     

    Regards

     

    Matt

  14. From across the pond .........The arrival ....

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by mattyb

    6 arrived Friday 23rd Oct at 11:00 - was working locally so was able to get away for an hour for the delivery. I use Mike Pullen who I've used before - Professional, friendly, reliable and very competitive -

     

    http://i.imgsafe.org/bde4c8b.jpg

     

     

    His details at bottom.

     

    First impressions - Oh dear ! Left hand side sill very rotten with a piece of "repair" metal floating around inside, bonnet askew, right hand side front bumper end unbolted from front wing and a good inch gap between them.Left hand wing damaged at front edge - Keep saying I would never buy blind again ! but to be fair the vendor in the USA, the car had been described as "spares or repairs" and the left hand front wing had been pictured - Its a long way to send it back !.

     

    Mike and I managed to push the car into the workshop - very hard work on gravel with stiff brakes - Mike showed me a few pics he'd taken on his mobile of other cars waiting to be collected at the docs - shiny American muscle cars, 50's yanks tanks with gleaming chrome, a superb XJ6 coupé and VW t2 splitty .......which was so rusted and had the front pushed in by at least a foot it must had been involved in a collision with a U boat - made me feel a bit better.

     

    Paid Mike and had a quick look around the car and underneath ......... Result !! The chassis is fantastic ! T shirt section top and bottom, suspension mounting points are perfect - looks straight with no repairs from front to rear, but the caveat is that the left hand side bumper bracket is bent - hopefully the force and damage hasn't been transferred into the chassis. I've nearly got this bracket off - I may be able to straighten it out, but have found a replacement if needs be - I'll take some measurements to see if I can determine if the chassis is true.

     

    Floors very good and not thin - small rust patch hole on left hand front section where it joins the inner sill. Battery box floor rusted thru - I was expecting this as in the pics there was a piece of ply cut to size !.

    Bonnet, boot lid, boot compartment and doors completely rust free and straight - door gaps very, very good and shut perfectly. Tiny amount of rust on right hand sill (but may be more once I have a good dig at it !) front plastic spoiler missing - front valance rust free but battered.

     

    http://i.imgsafe.org/bcc60f7.jpg

     

    http://i.imgsafe.org/d58959f.jpg

     

    http://i.imgsafe.org/68b4122.jpg

     

     

    The car has been under sealed - presumably from new - the inner wheel arches have a very thick coating which still appears to be in tacked and not cracked - this has really helped preserve the chassis and tub.

     

    Hood usable, seats OK (split in passengers seat), dash complete but veneer peeling off, some warning lights pulled from the gauges (more on this later !) original Leyland ignition key, jack, spare wheel, wheel trims, no broken switches. Tyres perished but Michelin "Red band" spec, rear bumper straight but rusty with US spec over riders.

     

     

     

     

    Engine has very clean oil at - the distributor cap looks to be a new Lucas and the HT leads have been numbered - encouraging - However the points and capacitor were missing - the 2 screws had been left on the front wing ledge and remained there all the way from North Carolina to Somerset.

     

    http://i.imgsafe.org/e586a6d.jpg

     

     

    http://i.imgsafe.org/347ed5b.jpg

     

     

    The plugs were lose in the head and the vendors statement that the engine turned over by hand were true. Broken lug on alternator. Antifreeze in radiator and overflow bottle.

     

     

     

    I initially struggled with a compression test due to the spare battery I have going flat very quickly - once fully charged readings range from 100 to 135 psi - not brilliant - using a cheap endoscope I can see that the pistons aren't holed, the valves are opening and the rocker gear looks clean and is undamaged (no idea what the lobes are like ) but this is in no way conclusive that the engine is good. I've had tired engines that have run well for years !

    The decision I've made is to get the engine running, so I can check the ancillaries, clutch gearbox and transmission before taking the head off.

    The fuel tank also looks very clean inside (small amount of very stale petrol) and I have discounted the fuel lines from the carbs, and hand pumped out the reminder using the lever on the fuel pump. The Fuel pump at this point started leaking through the gaskets so I've removed and will replace it with new.

     

    Having fitted a new set of points and a condenser, I checked the pistons were lifting in the carbs, sprayed carb cleaner into the mouths and Hey Presto the engine started first turn of the key and ran for a few seconds ! - I didn't want to run it for any longer as the oil warning light bulb is missing plus the fan belt is off, I've removed the thermostat and thermostat cover and the rocker cover is off.

     

    Both master cylinders removed plus the clutch slave cylinders - The front brakes look in very good condition - very thick pads which mean that pistons are pushed right back into the callipers - will rebuild them anyway but hoping the pistons are not pitted. Vendor had to remove the rear shoes to get the car rolling - again will rebuild or renew here as well including wheel cylinders and flexible hoses.

     

    http://i.imgsafe.org/fe3e3e3.jpg

     

     

     

    I've removed the left hand front wing and long with the front bumper - this wing is a replacement and is painted in what I think is Royal blue - the front bumper has what looks like Mimosa or Topaz paint on it !. I'm hoping I can panel beat the wing back into shape as its again completely rust free, but the damage isn't that simple - fingers crossed

    http://i.imgsafe.org/fddb20a.jpg

     

    That brought me to Thursday the 29th Oct and I've not had a chance to do any more hands on work.

     

    I have been able to Look at the wiring diagrams helpfully provided by Pool Boy plus a Google search It appears that the 3 pin oil pressure switch is part of the EGR system (along with the brake warning switch) I've not confirmed this but I think the EGR valve has been removed/disconnected - the charcoal cannister is still in place with its plumbing, but as mentioned, I've not fully looked at this.

    Pool Boy has posted with regards to removing the EGR gear and plugging the carbs. I hope that in the future I can replace the oil pressure switch with a single pin type and splice this in to the existing wiring loom and also do this with the brake warning switch.

     

     

    I cannot see that Martin Robey lists sill panels any more - so I will probably go with a Rimmer panel which I think is a Heritage panel ? I've fitted Sri Lanka "hand made" panels on Morris Minors many times so I'm pretty sure I can fit this panel.

     

    Tr Bitz don't have any replacement battery panels (The company they use to press them has gone bust but they do still have the pressings ) I might be able to produce the flutings in a flat piece of metal or find a panel that I might be able to use instead (Citroen 2cv boot panel looks a bit similar !)

     

    I think I can see why the bonnet wont close properly - again fingers crossed its a easy adjustment.

     

    That's it so far

     

    Mike Pullen Ringwood Hampshire Tel 07990773283 car transportation

  16. head gasket ? (from across the pond)

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Also If one of the spark plugs is replaced and compression tester is inserted in the other cylinder i.e. spark plug in cyl 1 , compression tester in cyl 2 , I don't think if makes any difference to the readings ?

     

    Engine has done 104k and no history so probably tired !

     

    thanks for the reply Andreas - As mentioned, I did add 3 or 4 squirts of oil to the cylinders which did not alter the readings - would this not indicate that rings are OK ?

  19. head gasket ? (from across the pond)

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by mattyb

    6 Arrived Friday ... Compression test shows very low values on No 1 and No 2 (had to battle with a spare battery losing its charge !)

     

    (25 psi ) adding a drop of oil makes little or no difference on 1 and 2

     

    Head gasket gone ?

     

    I've used a cheap endoscope and pistons are not holed - valves are opening and closing and valve seats look good (even the exhaust !)

     

    values for the rest of the cylinders are "OK" ish 50 to 90 psi (low compression cf engine ) not brilliant

     

    The exhaust manifold to down pipe studs look like fun (not) any advice ??

     

    pics and full report to follow !

  20. from across the pond.....

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Morris Minor sold in 12 hours, cash paid and collected so workshop free - Customs forms completed, submitted and accepted by HM Customs - 5% VAT paid - 6 unloaded - 6 will be with me Friday morning -

     

    Then I'll find out if I've bought a gem or a pup !

     

    Matt

  21. from across the pond.....

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Yay ! ships finally docked at Southampton - shippers have contacted me - only 2 cars in the container so has bumped the unloading fees a bit more (approx £100)

    Also 6 will be stored outside - hope the weather stays dry and 6 isn't subject to petty pilfering !

     

    Phoning shippers Monday to find out time scales for collection

  23. 1974 - one key for all locks ?

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by mattyb

    Does a 1974 "6" have one key for all locks ? i.e one key for the ignition, doors and boot ?

    (my 1981 spitfire had one key for the ignition and doors, but if I recall the boot lock had a separate ) key - On my "some where out to sea" US car, the seller has said there's only an ignition key - Do I need to get ready to change the door and/or boot locks ?

     

    many thanks

     

    Matt

  24. from across the pond.....

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by mattyb

    I think so John - its supposed to come off a 1975 car (mines US 1974) its got the "Triumph" cast metal emblem on the underside ?

     

    Did check the Rimmer cat -

     

    Matt

     

    (have tried to add a pic but get message " you have exceeded your allotted disk space for attachments - As a former System Administrator for HP, I have no idea what this means.............) !

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