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About BarryG

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  1. Hi Peter Just tried carrying out your suggestion of separating the clear fluid floating on top of the crud and mixing with water. The answer is that it does'nt, two layers clear water and misty liquid. So i am not totally sure how what i think is a silicone based fluid is still in the system after several changes of fluid using DOT 4. I said previously that my rear slave cylinders looked like new from previous owner. Have just gone through my receipts of work recently done on rear suspension rebuild and found that the rear cylinders have both been replaced. So now the only old r
  2. No you have'nt lost me - i'm still taking it all in. And thank you all very much for you input. Just a quick recap, when I bought the car some 4 years ago, the first thing I did regarding the hydraulics was to replace both front calipers as it failed its first MOT, owing to an unbalanced front brake reading something like 10% - 60%. So I would have thought that the rubbers in the brand new calipers should last for 4 years. At that time I replaced the fluid with DOT4. (I ran one litre through the system) As the Clutch was leaking I replaced both the slave and master cylinder and
  3. I have owned my TR4A for about 4 years now. And last year I attended a garage inspection day organised by our group. This has resulted in a fair amount of work being done to the car. One of the smaller issues was that there was a fair amount of moisture in my Brake Fluid. I immediately replaced the brake fluid by running a litre of DOT 4 brake fluid into it, when finished I could see the bottom of the brake master cylinder ie clean fluid. Since then I have done about 750 miles and all of a sudden the fluid in the master cylinder resembles the bottom of the Thames, all muddy/dirty. So
  4. Thanks Roger I think a little bit of fettling is in order then ;-) Thanks for your help. Barry
  5. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with the Air Intake flap in the centre of the car between the wipers. I have been trying to get mine to sit down flush with the surrounding bodywork, I have renewed the rubber seal but it is still sitting to high. Has any one had any success with this? and if so what is the workaround. Many Thanks
  6. Finally all finished, it would be an understatement to say that it has been a bit of a mission. So all went well except for the following:- The right angle drill bit I really did not expect to last that long, the reason I got this particular one was that it had the smallest profile. Costing a mere £5 odd from Fleabay (inc postage), it lasted till I had a hole drilled - see photo. At one point towards the end the drill bit bit extra hard and totally wrecked it - fit for the bin now. The second problem was that the Plug Extractor straddle had nothing to rest on squarely. The face o
  7. Thanks Stuart Finally got the plug out about half hour ago, it was a great feeling. Just sorting out pipework and routing. Will report back later today. I have the bit between my teeth. Barry
  8. Thanks Chris, that's very good oil consumption. That's the sort of consumption I would like to try and aim for. Today I decided to go for it and take the crankcase breather plug out as I think that is where my main problem lies, excess crankcase pressure. I am at the point where the core plug extractor is partly screwed into the plug. That has taken all day My question now is, does anyone know how wide the oil way is directly behind the core plug?, as I don't want to go in too deep with extractor. See what tomorrow brings. Barry
  9. Hi Roger If you have access to a forge great, if you need any close ups just let me know . . . Failing that have a squiz here http://r.ebay.com/pI1KVU Not sure how succesfull it will be, but it certainly looks good and strong, it needs a 9/32" pilot hole. Barry
  10. Thanks Roger. I always thought that the oil cooler probably wasn't doing much of a job as it had been fitted behind the front valence so zero air flow. Chris the extractor I bought from fleabay, came from the US. So how many miles do you get between 3/4 down and 1/2 way down on the dip stick? Barry
  11. My mission continues. . . . Continuing on from previous inputs, By venting my rocker cover to the carb intakes my oil consumption is about 850 miles to a litre, previously it was 2 litres in 1250 miles, so big improvement. As a recap I have ditched the PCV valve, but feel a lot more could be done. I have bought a vent pipe, a core plug remover and a right angled hex drill driver. Yesterday I shortened one of my drill bits and experimented drilling through a core plug from a Frogeye Sprite, I placed a white card underneath to check for swarf and placed grease on the drill bit,
  12. Hi All Been following this with great interest. I am probably getting on for halving my oil consumption since ditching the PCV valve. I now vent the rocker box cover to the back of the air filters. I am currently running a mechanical fuel pump but believe that there is probably more I could do to improve things. I have been thinking of switching to an electric fuel pump then using a plate with vent to take excess pressure to a oil catch tank. A pump that comes highly recommended is http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=48 it seems to have good reviews and does not run a
  13. Hi John Have now fitted brand new wire wheel adaptor nuts and all seems fine, no marks on the inside of the wire wheel. I think the nuts that were on there had seen better days. PYU940F in answer to your question 'Does anyone know the size of the shorter ww studs' and what is the thickness of the wire wheel adaptor. I took the opportunity to measure before re-assembly (not official figures - just what I have fitted). Wire Wheel Adaptor 6.5mm Studs (from tip to tip) 29.46mm Hope this helps Thanks for all of your help - now on to the next issue ;-) Barry
  14. Hi Rich I am based in Bracknell, thank you very much for your kind offer. I ordered a new set of nuts about an hour ago. I think when I get them I will (a) see how they compare to my existing ones and ( see how well they do up. I personally think that my nuts have seen better days (can't believe I just typed that ;-) , so will be interesting to compare. I think with new nuts if there are still problems then yes I agree probably pointing to the studs, but on examination I do reckon the studs look OK. See how it goes. Once again thanks for your input. Barry
  15. Hi Roger Now that the garage has warmed up again I have just run the checks you suggested. Yes I can get 8 full rotations for each nut across all four studs, I have noticed that it is easier if I start with the taper in the nut facing away from the hub, if I start with the taper inwards it is very tight starting off. I have also counted the number of threads down each nut, all have 8 'peaks', one nut has 7. Have examined the stud threads and I cannot see anything wrong with the threads, so am begining to think the previous comments of the threads being buggered probably apply to t
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