barkerwilliams
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Posts posted by barkerwilliams
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Nigel,
You could try one of these at £499 :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ljVh94Q18Y
It's the last three feet that make the knees go weak.
Alan
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Lubrication. Whilst a working drive is off the car is it recommended to lubricate (grease) the angled drive, or leave well alone?
Alan
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I have 1970 PI; my compressions readings are all 170 / 175. I know all gauges read slightly differently but you seem to have quite a range 140 to 170. I understood 170's were in the right ballpark.
Alan
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Dave,
Whatever hoses you end up with could I suggest that once you have disconnected both radiator hoses and you wont wash dirt into the radiator, you spend some time flushing the engine block particularly removing the drain plug near the starter motor and using a wire coat hanger to break up the sediment.
See also http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/34041-water-drain-plug/
Alan
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Is there a designed minimum required level of vacuum on the PI for the brake servo to function well?
I appreciate the servo is an analogue device and the more depression the more assistance. I just feel that I am lacking servo assistance and before I start having the servo refurbished or exchanged I would like to confirm the input power requirement I should aim for.
My car is running well (touch wood) but at tickover only pulls 8.5” to 9”. I believe these figures are normal’ish for a PI, but is this low level desirable for the servo?Many thanks,
Alan
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An excellent read, and progresses logically to conclusion. So the Halfords Classic oil is out.
Alan
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My circuit is completed by the horn push which has a blackish sprung wire V connector on the plastic outer pushing against the steering wheel. This doubles as the friction clip which holds the horn boss into the wheel. I had to clean up the part of the steering wheel it contacts which had been painted / corroded to get a good contact.
On the outside of the horn boss which fits into the wheel is a small 1/4" vertical line in the plastic moulding. If you line up the inner brass contact with that line then as you are fitting the horn boss into the wheel you have a visual aid in ensuring the brass contact is in line with the brass horn stud.
Alan
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Part No GHF1192
http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Abingdon/partdetail.asp?partno=149059
30p each
no connection
Alan
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same as the one on my 1970 6
Alan
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http://www.thermotec.com/products/14002-thermo-shield.html
http://www.thermotec.com/products/14005-thermo-sleeve.html
http://www.thermotec.com/products/14035-express-sleeves.htmlHas anyone experience in using any of these thermal shields on their car? The blurb reads very well and I would appreciate a users experience before I bought.
Many thanks,
Alan
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Have you tried testing with the air filter to induction manifold interconnecting pipe disconnected so the engine can breath without restriction? But filter would have to be really really bad.
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Darren,
Are you aware there are two methods of securing the valve seats and most suppliers only use one method? So decide what you want before settling on a supplier.
Until a couple of years ago valve seats were oversize and frozen in liquid nitrogen to shrink them to fit the heated cylinder head recesses.
Now some suppliers have the valve seats and recesses similar sizes and bond the valve seats into place.
I don't know what's best but I had mine heated / frozen.
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If most of the cylinders are running OK then it is not likely to be a generalised item such as fuel or electronic ignition which would affect all cylinders.
It is most likely an individual cylinder item such as plug lead, plug or injector - as the cylinder has good compression and the injector is fanning / misting then there is not too much left.
If you still do not have the problem solved by tonight then start the car after dark, turn all the lights off and look at the distributor and leads to see if there is arcing sparking. - impossible to see in daylight. Look but don't touch!
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http://www.hthoward.co.uk/about-us/company-history/
Slough
Did mine really nicely. A quality company. - I'm not connected to them.
Alan
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Why not use the large length nuts used to connect two bars together such as
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p29740
which probably have three or four normal nuts-worth of thread within each nut?
-well I know what I mean!
Alan
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shows both types of both sides in stock, but the picture is hard to see, might be worth a phone call.
Alan
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My pi seems to have plenty from the right hand pedal, it's just the centre pedal seems a little ineffective. Trying to rein in a V12 would be err...an interesting; but not a long lived problem. Once someone has sorted out an aftermarket ABS put me down for a set.
Alan
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PART NO.712836 is £26 new at David Manners. If that's the bit you mean
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Website has :- Useful Links
1) If you wish to report a fraud to us please use this email address :- special_services@carandclassic.co.uk
2) If you wish to report a fraud please visit www.actionfraud.org.uk
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Gents thanks to all who contributed my window now adjusted correctly.
I studied the amount of metal I would have needed to remove and it would necessitate doubling the length of the slots. As I was heading up the M5 stopped off in Brum and spent my £30 on a new regulator mechanism. Stuck a 4" suction cup on the window removed the regulator but left the window in place. Fitted new regulator and I can adjust correctly within the existing slots. Looked long and hard at the old mechanism but cannot see any wear etc so perhaps it never fitted well, or minor wear has a significant effect on amount of lift.
But one satisfied customer.
Thanks again
Alan
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I also have power steering on TR6, it's terrific, light, plenty of feel etc. Definitely recommend.
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Ok off tomorrow to grind away some metal.
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Apologies to both, I'm Alan.
I have been out and loosened a bolt, possibly 91 in the drawing, but it does not seem to release anything. When I look inside the door I do not see the part No 90 in the Moss drawing. The bolt seems to be a top fixing for the window channel.
What I do have is two bolts in slots about 2" apart, central in the top of the door just under where the finger pull is. These originally were fully back and when I pushed them fully forward (towards the door hinges) I gained a little in closed window height. These bolt slots look to be part of the original door pressing and not an addition.
These bolts are not shown in the Moss drawing which is not referenced to any chassis number range. My car is 1970, are there two styles of door?
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My drivers door windows closes about 1/2" too low. I have removed the door card but cannot see the details of the window winder regulator mechanism. When the windows is opened fully it seems to retract too far into the door. I wondered if it is possible that the toothed gear quadrant is one tooth out.
Is that possible, and if so is it easily corrected with the mechanism in place in the door?
The parts of the mechanism I can see do not seem to be particularly worn, it operates smoothly and the adjustment on the elongated slots allows me to adjust the level of the top of the glass without too much play or binding in the felt channels.
Any suggestions please?
Is "BSP" BSPP or BSPT ?
in General TR Technical
Posted
A problem with Araldite is that it sets hard. When at some unspecified time in the future you unscrew the fitting, grains of Araldite will fall into the pipework. Exactly what you specifically don’t want to happen.