barkerwilliams
-
Content Count
2,429 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by barkerwilliams
-
-
Fuel gauge should be working on 10 volts via the voltage regulator.
Alan
-
Charles,
As Peter linked above I had this problem with twin exhausts ( with many drivers reporting similar effects) and it is now cured. Yes the car needs a once over for leaky exhaust etc, but in the end my fix was two curved SS trim pipes that cost about a £10 for the two off e-bay. - Please check your tail pipe diameter if you order these exactly fitted mine with the adjustment screws cut off. Driven about 3500 miles since fitting.
With twin exhausts, even if your can't smell the fumes they are being sucked back into the cockpit and trying to kill you.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161523251404
Alan
-
Paul,
Sorry no, but there is also TR Register Technicalities CD Section A2 which lists heads.
Alan
-
Mark,
Is this what you need?
http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/head_applications_chart.pdf
Alan
-
Jerry,
Which model Carter pump do you use?
Alan
-
Cat C and D are commercial decisions by insurers, and do not reflect on the eventual safety of the vehicle.
With all classic cars a very high percentage have encountered major damage over the years and it is not reflected in their "clean" record.
It is a question of how safe the vehicle is today that really counts. Long live the MOT!
Alan
-
Hi,
I recently started the thread; TR6 Exhaust fumes / airflows over bodywork; for similar reasons to yours, fumes, headaches etc. However I, and others on that thread have twin exhausts nearer the centre line of the car than the original rear box. In the end I fitted a behind seat deflector and two curved exhaust trims to throw the exhaust down and outwards and the fumes exit 75mm further back from the bumper. My exhaust fumes were coming straight over the centre line of the top of the boot lid drawn in by the low pressure created by the windscreen.
The SS exhaust trims I fitted off Ebay were less than £5 each, So if you have no exhaust leaks (get someone to restrict exhaust with engine running whilst you check for leaks) try a curved exhaust trim of the correct size to fit over your exhaust.
Can't say they look as stylish as the original but the car is no longer trying to kill me with the fumes, and it's nice not to have a headache.
If you need any further info please don't hesitate to ask me.
Alan
-
Les,
Years ago had similar issue when engine cooled and instead of drawing the coolant back from the expansion bottle, drew air in from the cabin heater valve. Once the engine was started again the air at the back of the engine pushed an excessive volume of coolant into the expansion bottle which overflowed before the air escaped.
Heater valve did not appear to "leak" coolant, or vent the pressurised air, it just allowed air to enter when depressurised. If you think this might be a possible cause of your problem just clamp the heater hoses off prior to the valve.
In my case valve was OK throughout the winter until I turned the heater off when the weather improved in the late spring and presumably broke the seal.
Alan
-
Arrrrghhhh!!!
CTRL V to paste link didn't work.
Alan
-
I used one of these @ £12.61. Needs a T piece to the prv, or the MU. As the gauge is electronic with a sender unit no fuel flowing around the car to the gauge.. Just a single wire to the gauge.
Probably not the best to leave installed permanently but can be used for a couple of days until you are happy with the readings from hot / cold starts etc then removed.
Alan
-
Peter,
As Roger says so many things to go wrong with the car, I had a query on my plug leads and e-mailed Magnecor one Saturday night, Phil De Wit the MD e-mailed me back on the sunday morning.
That did it for me. Good product, impeccable customer support, Magnecor every time. If I get other ignition issues I wont wonder about the leads.
Worth every
pennyPoundAlan
-
Whilst running a new power cable to the fuel pump don't forget the return circuit via the earth. If the earth is poor it does not matter how good the supply cable is.
Alan
-
Alec,
We have horses so lots of leather experience(?), if leather is dry and cracked but not too late to save buy 500ml of Belvoir Leather Balsam made by Carr & Day & Martin less than £12 from any Equestrian or farm shop or Ebay. One tub probably enough for four or five cars. Plenty left over for your leather boots to keep them supple and improve waterproofing. Don't put too much on, it's clear and soaks in, but don't put on your seats and climb in the car later that day in your best white suit leave it a couple of days.
Found this ad on google
Alan
-
Bengt,
Sent PM
Alan
-
Paul,
Is the engine revving in the "normal" range typically under about 5000 rpm?
Is the temperature where the alternator is mounted "reasonable" ; near the manifolds and behind the radiator could be exceptionally hot.
Some cars have heat shields for the alternator, and if the engine revs high then it is usual to reduce the revs to the alternator.
But just as with people an autopsy is always best to determine the cause of death, do you still have the bodies?
Alan
-
Robert,
I am pleased that your exhaust tips have eliminated fumes from your cockpit, I have fitted something similar and have also noted the improvement in air quality. It seems that an unmodified twin exhaust on the TR6 poses a real threat to health especially when so many cars seem to be running on fuel additives. On the TR6 forum Peter Cobbold warns of the dangers of the contents of some fuel additives and not breathing high concentrations of fumes for extended periods can only be good.
Alan
-
Ray,
I too use the BiltHamber aerosols.. The advantage is they are clear. Great on seams as it really creeps in and seals. But yes is tacky and dirt sticks. Incidentally I also use on my tractor and trailers and it really works well on the muck spreader keeping the seams and bolts protected from the aggressive urine allowing bolts to be like new and removable years later.
Alan
-
Paul,
Felt is part 17 & 18 on attached schematic
Alan
-
Paul,
You seem to have the same setup as me. Truth is I'm just a TR driver with a cough; what you suggest seems logical but moves metal (i.e. weight and leverage) further out from the centre line of the silencer box mounting and will put a greater load on the seam / end of the silencer box that it was not designed to cope with. I wonder if the proposed tail pipes will rip off the box after a few encounters with decent potholes and might need an additional mounting from the rear valance - side panel seam.
However I have not seen any problem reports from drivers with a "standard" transverse rear box and it may be better to go with what was known to work, better than spending probably a similar sum on "hopeful" modifications. Unless of course the mods can be done cheaply out there. I think my car exhaust system would only need a rear box not a whole system - check yours out.
There is nothing intrinsically different about the TR6, look to see what solutions other makers have, particularly on older classic cars before aerodynamic testing moved into car production.
If you do make any modifications you will then run into the problem of proving that your changes have made a difference; that is the tricky bit. It might seem to have improved but how do you really know, how can you quantify the change?
A couple of drivers have reported being dizzy from the fumes, so on a long run what damage is being done?- Read Peter Cobbold's bits on the very nasty petrol additives, even good old fashioned CO poisoning would not be too much fun at speed.
I will say the http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161523251404 £4.20 each, tail pipe trim, which I fitted that lengthens and deflects the exhaust "seems" (just can't prove it) a great improvement - it just looks - well different.
Please let us know what you decide and how you get on.
Alan
-
OAF939M,
Very pleased you had a good day out. Please for your own safety under no circumstances do not associate smell with fumes. For example today you could have pushed your choke fully home and would not have that rich smell, but if the exhaust fumes are coming back into the cockpit, they still will be and just as dangerous, perhaps more so if you cannot smell them.
That is the reason I would like to insert smoke into my exhaust to see where it is going, not just relying on my aging sense of smell which nowadays is only used to appreciating a decent red wine.
Take care and good driving,
Alan
-
Did they not include the driver in kerb weight back in the 60's as they seem to now?
John,
I have a 1970 PI, two weeks ago I had my car's total weight and corner weights measured by a BMW race car builder on their electronic corner scales and the car came in at 1128Kg without driver. (Trying to balance the suspension) There were my "normal" spares of distributor cap and rotor arm and injector, spanner / socket set, small lightweight jack etc. in the boot, a tank brim full of fuel, floor mats, a full glove box and spare jacket, spare wheel, a bottle of drinking water. The car has a few extras such as oil cooler, electric fan, a new chassis, a few extra layers of paint and cavity wax, has five new tyres, but nothing out of ordinary just an average TR6 in it's normal state.. So I think the plated weight on my car of 969 -1380 did not include driver and gives me a margin of 252Kg for passengers and luggage.
........I'd best start on the diet.
Alan
-
A very few garages still sell leaded petrol in the UK. Really depends where you live.
http://www.fbhvc.co.uk/legislation-and-fuels/fuel-information/
Alan
-
Gary,
My car seemed ok but if slowly creeping forward using clutch made a loud metallic grating noise, a normal moving off was OK. Many miles later developed a slight vibration above 50mph.
It was one of the propshaft UJ's breaking up. Looked long and hard at the propshaft from under the car but could see nothing amiss, once off the car easy to see the problem. Perhaps worthwhile checking yours if the gearbox is out.
Alan
-
OAF939M
Did you get / have a copy of the TR Shop 2015 leaflet sent out with the TRF magazine this year? On Page 3 at the bottom are two exhaust systems identical apart from the back box.
Now what system is fitted to your car and your pipe diameters I do not know, but there is a strong possibility that your second pipe can be repositioned and a transverse box could be fitted. But first it's on your back with a tape measure to check what you have. A back box is £200'ish so perhaps you should also consider the extravagant £10 on a couple of exhaust trims/deflectors.
I have been surprised by the response to this thread I started and I wonder if anyone with twin boxes does not have the problem of fume ingress. It was not apparent to me until I started driving longer distances at higher speed on motorways, my first symptom was noticing "TR cough" after using the car.
I'm still thinking of an underbody spoiler between the rear boxes and the rear valance which projects down and appears to disturb the underbody airflows. This space is filled by the transverse silencer. I am having difficulty in "proving" which route the fumes are taking so that I am able to determine if something I change makes a quantifiable difference. I can only think of injecting coloured smoke into the exhaust as per the Red Arrows - difficult to justify Your Honour on a public road. And of course the exhausts exit nearer the centre line and point upwards into the low pressure behind the car.
Alan
Dashboard camera - any recommendations?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Les,
Dash Cameras are really useful, hard to find an "ideal" spot to mount one. I made a mistake with mine, it was not fit and forget. Although it overwrote the oldest images, my camera only recorded up to 9999 1 minute videos in a folder it created called DCIM, filling the memory card (32GB) before overwriting - about 18 hours. Once it got to image 10,000 it created a folder DCIM(1) and started again from image 1 but the memory card was already filled by the DCIM folder so it only recorded one 1 minute video, then overwrote it with image 2 etc.
So when I needed the recording following a minor "incident" the recoding was useless as it had been overwritten.
The card only needed reformatting in the camera, a simple housekeeping task which I now do every month or so.
When you get a camera, don't be like me, - read the manual!
Alan