barkerwilliams
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Posts posted by barkerwilliams
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And to link your threads .......
........obviously used the wrong square ended spanner to remove the selector bolts.
Alan
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Keith,
If you have worked on lots of areas in your car I would refrain from adding even more until you get the car back together and running reliably well. Yes you may need a larger alternator to run with the headlights on, the wipers on, the cabin and radiator fans running simultaneously, but you probably won't need all that for a few weeks.
Putting too many unknowns into the mix at one time makes fault finding a nightmare. I would recommend a step-by-step approach and if you encounter a problem then it is only one step back to eliminate issues.
Alan
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Mark,
My Clarke 135 TE & Hobby Weld gas cylinders works really well. I use about two 6 cu metres cylinders of gas per 5Kg reel of wire. Don't contemplate the tiny cylinders they don't last more than a few minutes and really cost arm & leg.
Alan
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Rich,
\\tr6.danielsonfamily.org/OilPump.htm
By all means buy a new one but keep your old pump as a spare and give the link above a try. Quite a simple zero cost rebuild.
Alan
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George,
I have had problems with the drivers side carpet slipping forwards. I have tried propriety carpet fasteners unsuccessfully. The rear carpet is clamped down by the seat fixing bolts. I now use these to also hold the front carpet in place.
I removed the drivers footwell carpet, glued two, two foot long strips of 2" webbing to the underside of the drivers carpet with perhaps another 6" extending rearwards. These extension pieces of webbing I slid under the rear carpet and under the drivers seat. The drivers seat front two fixing bolts now pass through each strip of webbing clamping it securely and hold the drivers front carpet in place. The webbing is invisible (under the front and rear carpets which overlap slightly) and it requires no additional fixings to hold the carpet in place and it is easy to remove the seat bolts and hence the carpet. As the carpet is fixed the underlay also remains in place.
Alan
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Alan,
Have a really good look at the propshaft. If it needs to come out it is only four extra bolts and you can check & lubricate easily.
Alan
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TR6 driver & passenger safety.
I have a TR6 without a roll cage / bar and common sense tells me I should consider fitting one. But what is the best way to go?
A roll cage is obviously stronger in certain scenarios, a bar looks like it may be deformed in a big impact.
So what does TR6 accident history show?
Have there been many accidents in which serious damage occurred to the occupants that a bar might have mitigated?
Have there been many accidents in which a simple bar “failed”.
Does the TR Insurance hold actuarial information of roll cage / bar performance?
I know all accidents have a downside and I don’t intend stir any bad memories for members, I would just like to protect my loved ones in my car.
Alan
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How do you know the noise is coming from the diff? Have you been able to confirm it is the diff or are you just assuming it is because it has just been rebuilt?
Alan
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Marc,
I had no idea it really was a Towel rail. But congratulations to the designer it really scores on the reality stakes.
I suppose it is a question of form over function - unless you really do have towels to dry.
Alan
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Genuine question - not satirical.
http://www.hamiltongrays.com/1969-g-triumph-tr6-16342950_c8862.asp
This looks like a very nice TR6. But what is the purpose of the hand towel rail on the front of the car and the larger bath towel rail at the rear?
Alan
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Roger,
Also square headed bolts can often be removed using a socket extension bar "upside down" - (I know what I mean).
Alan
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Neil,
Why a fire hazard? little heat in use, not powered when boot closed, and luke warm when boot lid closed when it may contact boot contents.
Alan
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Charles,
I have a 1970 TR6 pi. I had the problem last year that from tickover when stationary, when I went to accelerate away (sensibily) the engine would stumble and jerk until the revs got up to say 1500'ish then the car would pull strongly.
After much poking and adjusting I eventually removed the air intake plenum and with the engine ticking over blocked each cylinder off in turn with the palm of my hand. Four cylinders just blocked off and made no real difference to the tick over. However two cylinders snatched my hand with the force of the induction and the engine stalled instantly.
Without load the engine was essentially ticking over on two cylinders and without enough revs to bring in the other cylinders the car could not pull away and would stall.
Palm of hand is not a particularly scientific but is quite sensitive and very cheap to use!
I then made a manifold plug with normal vacuum gauge attached and measured the difference of each cylinder - quite a variation.
Eventually I bought a Weber Dellorto carb carburettor synchrometer about £35 which allowed me to equalise the vacuum on each cylinder. I found this difficult (impossible) to get exactly even, but a just a crude balancing made an unbelievable improvement.
Now variations in each cylinders vacuum might be valve adjustment, or badly adjusted throttle linkage, badly adjusted or worn butterflies as suggested above.I'm Hereford'ish, if you would like to try a vacuum gauge I could bring one over tfor you to try.Alan -
Also works under bonnet and for wheel changing, fitting ignition key in the dark, walking up path to front door after dark. Ubiquitous.
Alan
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Keith,
Had some thoughts. Cheap solution.
My car cover (£20) in the garage reaches the floor when fitted on the car. If the cover on the floor was weighted down to the floor on all sides with, for example, a length of wooden batten the dehumidifier could be placed inside the car cover with a frame to keep it's air intake free. You would then have effectively built a carcoon with dehumidifier and would not have to be concerned with excessive garage ventilation. Yes the floor seal would not be 100% but very little external air would penetrate. Easy to pick up the wood and remove the car cover and the expense of a few wooden battens are car cover would easily be offset by reduced running costs.
Would be cheaper to run as it would only be servicing the 4 or 5 cu metres under the car cover.
Alan
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Keith,
Is you garage fairly well sealed - not exactly airtight but reasonable? A dehumidifier would not work well if the garage was getting a large number of air changes per hour of fresh damp air.
If garage is sound then dehumidifier would be good investment.
Alan
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Ok, once we have our Ethanol and water mixture is it useful for anything? Rat poison, paint stripper, are there any worthwhile uses?
Alan
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John,
Only soldered a rad once and it was such a delicate task. I would suggest that you check the melting point of the solder, it commonly varies between 179 and 300'C. I would use the lowest temp I could buy to avoid damaging other joints with excessive heat.
Alan
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Stuart,
Is that a complete relay box / fuses in there replacing the 4 fuse original? I'm think of fitting one.
Alan
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I once asked the same question and MikeG answered:-
Hi Alan
They appear to be 1/8" Whitworth, 40 TPI
Mike G
Alan
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Paint is to stop it rusting. If it's not rusting away does it need an expensive paint job?
Is the paint to make it look "better"?
If you were to paint it would you also take out the dents? A good paint job needs lots of trim removing, is the trim good enough to be refitted or would you be on the slippery slope to rapidly emptying your bank account?
If you need to ask the question then your heart already knows the answer, as they say, if it aint broke don't fix it.
When it's time to spend you will know.
Alan
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Andy,
Aye up lad, I'll go t'foot of our stairs, that's great that is.
Alan
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A lot of wheel arch clearance, is there an engine in there?
Alan
TR6...Hood Frame reconditioning: advice?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Mine was powder coated as one piece, not dismantled. I'm not sure how well the joints would swivel if they were powder coated. Looks terrific.
Alan