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barkerwilliams

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Posts posted by barkerwilliams

  8. TR6 INJECTORS

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Keith,

     

    I'm very much of the if it 'aint broke school.

     

    All my working life I have had to develop diagnostic procedures and I enjoy testing out a mechanism to confirm if something is working correctly.

     

    Before I had a pi my experience of injectors was of a complicated, very expensive device prone to failure coincidently with my funds being low.

    In contrast the Lucas injectors are a simple device but were made to a very high standard and perform well even after very high mileages.

     

    Injectors are easy to lift out of intake manifolds dangle over an empty container (disconnect coil - sparks!) crank the engine and look at the spray cone and check for dripping, a 5 minute job.

     

    I have spent some time with a Dellorto balancer (my number one most essential pi tool) adjusting my butterflies ensuring that all my cylinders have the same volume of air at idle and throttle open. Then it was the injectors turn.

     

    Not having a hydraulic tester I used compressed air to test the pressure at which my injectors opened, I was surprised to see one injector opened at a substantially different pressure to the others. Also I was intrigued that by holding each injector over 6" away from a bucket of water and observing the ripple. four injectors had a circular pattern centred on the injector, two injectors had the ripple offset to one side as if the injector was "tipping" open as opposed to dropping evenly, and the output was to one side. - Don't you just love my technical terms! It was easier to use air with a continuous flow than try using the pulse of petrol when the injector was in situ.

     

    After blowing air through the two iffy injectors for perhaps a minute each not just a pulse, the output jet centralised. Was this a particle of dirt blowing out, or a sticky mechanism? I don't know but it cleared and then all were operating similarly.

     

    Prior to blowing through the injectors my car usually started on perhaps four cylinders then after a couple of minutes the other two would drop in. After blowing through, and refitted to the car all injectors held over a bucket start to produce a jet after a couple of cranking revolutions and the car now starts on all six simultaneously.

     

    I have subsequently sent away the injector needing a higher pressure to open away for professional re-calibration, I would not attempt that.

     

    To be honest the whole thing took about half an hour, cost nothing and made a significant difference to starting my car, but perhaps more importantly has given my confidence that my injectors are good and all operate evenly. I now also have a useable diagnostic test for the future, when deciding if whatever problem I have at that time is caused by my injectors or something else.

     

     

    Alan

  9. Air Manifold wanted

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Graham,

     

    Have this item s-l140.jpg bought over a year ago on Ebay described as Genuine Original Triumph TR5 TR6 2.5PI Air Manifold Assembly 216374, which is not the same number as you have posted but looks the same as my 1970 pi. It looks as new, no corrosion (last time I saw it.) Black crinkle finish, probably was repainted as no marks from ever been fitted. If you are interested I will dig out and photograph.

     

     

    Alan

  11. TR6 INJECTORS

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by barkerwilliams

    Barry,

     

    http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW3354V​

     

    These are round section but do fit and seal OK.

     

    This is not sophisticated but, it's cheap!!

     

     

    Do you have a an air line oiler? a standard UK 1/4" air coupling is the "right" thread and screws into a spare injector line. Fit an injector to the other end of the line The air regulator can then be slowly opened with the injector held over a bucket of water, when the injector opens the pressure can be read off the gauge and you can observe the "ripple" on the water surface to check the injector is producing a nice circular jet directly below the injector and not offset to one side if it does not open cleanly.

     

    You can ensure all injectors open at the same pressure, the gauge on an oiler is not accurate but you can check the gauge later against a more accurate tyre gauge etc.

     

    In the UK most injectors seem to be set at 40psi but Kinsler in the US sets them to 55psi.

     

     

     

     

    a2T245014.jpg

    Alan

  15. fuel starving

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by barkerwilliams

    Jose,

     

    I have a 1970 pi and your symptoms are familiar. On reading your thread I note that you have checked the butterflies are opening at the same time. How did you do that? If it is by eye or feeler gauge, but that is only a rough guide.

     

    Have you used one of these - a Dellorto carburettor tuning gauge - ebay about £35? To get a good tickover and pickup you need a balanced airflow. These gauges fit directly into each throttle body and indicate the "sealing" of the butterfly. It is amazing how each butterfly seems to be closed and sealed but there is a wide variation in airflows passing the "closed" butterflies which can be then be adjusted out.

     

    Once adjusted the simultaneous opening of all butterflies can be adjusted on the throttle linkage. The throttle is opened slightly - perhaps 1200 revs with a screw on the throttle linkage then again the gauge is used to get the same airflow, i.e. the same butterfly opening on all six cylinders. Once adjusted correctly all cylinders will be pulling together. The readings from these gauges is not important, it is just that all cylinders are equal.

     

    Alan

    mpkoNRPw7wf3QLiJwqTrGpw.jpg

  16. Performance exhaust manifold

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted

    Rich,

     

    Galvanising is only recommended to 200'C after which it starts to lift off. Unsure of maximum possible exhaust temp but they can get to red hot, over 500'C in normal use pushing 800.C in racing engines. Most High temp paint only good to 350'C'ish so I would suggest that you need to be looking at a more exotic ceramic coating, or more probably leave as is.

     

     

     

    Alan

  22. Gas or Gasless mig welder?

    in General TR Technical

    Posted

    ​Mark,

     

    Best advise I can give is to get both 6 and 8 and "buy" a Hobyweld 5 ultra cylinder and a regulator set, Auto dim mask, lots of flap discs, and collect up lots of scrap steel all thicknesses up to 10mm and get welding it together - bring out the artist in yourself.

     

    Don't start welding until you have cleared a space of inflammable materials and moved any cars well away, weld spatter can travel a long way any it burns what it touches. A bucket of water nearby would not go amiss.

     

    You will find the 10mm steel is too much but until you try you wont know.

     

    I find if I have the settings too low although it looks ok'ish but it has no strength, so I start too high current on a test piece and turn it down - I find that is easier to judge when it is correct.

     

    Also try welding without the gas, you will find it splashes and if you grind the weld down it is full of tiny bubbles. That is what happens when you don't have enough gas flowing or it is too windy and blows the gas away. Once you have done that you will recognise the signs.

     

    Buy a number of tips and a few nozzles before you start. If you have spares you wont need them very often, if you don't have any then as soon as you start there will be a problem.

     

    Look up "metal fume fever" on the internet before you start on other materials especially galvanised.

     

    Welding is a real skill, don't expect beautiful results until you have accumulated many hours, you can soon produce good strong welds but if they are like mine they need cosmetic treatment with a flap disk afterwards before anyone else sees them.

     

     

    Alan.

  23. Ride Height

    in TR6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by barkerwilliams

    I went through three sets of ever lengthening springs until my car would clear speed bumps in Herefordshire.

     

    Each time I drove hitting front, middle and back of the car soon lost its attraction. When I slowed down to take the bumps sensibly at 5 to 10 mph the cars behind were not expecting it and frequently nearly shunted me.

     

    Now I have 51/2" ground clearance to the bottom of the centre of front roll bar. I had most trouble getting long enough rear springs to get the car "level" with equal wheel to arch distance front and rear, however that left my standard Gaz adjustable rear shocks occasionally topping out so I needed to have Gaz to make me a set 1" longer than standard.

     

    Now my TR6 takes all speed bumps at 20mph-plus, even tall, bad ones. Now really nice to drive and the road holding is very good. I started with 420 shortened springs but on rough, potholed road surfaces the car drifted (bounced) wide around corners, with softer springs the tyres stay in contact with a rough road and the car steers much more precisely. The softer springs I now have lead to greater suspension travel for a given size of "bump" which reduces the up-thrust imparted to the body and consequently a much smoother drive, much more acceptable to the wife..

     

    The car looks "normal" not as if it has high heels on!

     

    However if I was planning on track day driving on a decent surface I would refit the stiffer shorter springs just for the day. Suspension is very much dictated by the type of driving you intend to do. After all a set of four springs is relatively inexpensive and is quick to fit.

     

     

    Alan

  25. Multimeter?

    in General TR Technical

    Posted

    Andrew,

     

    The question is what do you want to use if for? Digital multimeters vary from £5 to almost £500. If all you need to do is fault find on a car the £5 meter will do all you want and are quite accurate to 1/100th of a volt. But I would recommend that one with an audible short circuit buzzer is helpful.

     

    If your going to play with mains ( or higher voltage) then you need really good quality flexible leads, double insulated with strain relief and properly insulated clip on alligator ends. The cheap meters have cheap plastic leads, great for 12 volts but after that it depends what price you place on your life. Expensive meters have wonderful functionality and phenomenal accuracy but it comes at a price and has no benefit for working on cars. Even mid-range clamp on ammeter type meters have trouble with low DC currents.

     

    I have had some very expensive meters and the tears really roll down the cheeks when you break the display. But £5'ish means they are disposable.

     

    Alan

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