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SteveB21

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Posts posted by SteveB21

  1. Adrian

     

    Thanks for posting - just show the value of the forum. Like you, I had floppy handles, and I thought they were all like that! So, quick trip to Moss on way home today and I now have 2 wavy washers to install over the bank holiday...

     

    Cheers

     

    Steve

  2. Sorry - SOLD

     

    I have one of the famous Everco 74648 heater valves available (new) if anyone wants one, brought over from the States by a friend as I have bought one to fit to my TR6 and replace the standard part.

     

    Will sell at cost (£22.34) plus P&P or bring up to Malvern - will be there Sat & Sun.

     

    Cheers

     

    Steve

  3. A slightly delayed follow up to my post - the bend in the pivot arm has done the trick, with both visors staying up at motorway speeds on the M25 yesterday I attach a picture of the passenger side visor before re-fitting in case anyone is interested.

     

    Cheers

     

    Steve

    post-12975-0-60872700-1494271943_thumb.jpg

  4. Stuart - you're right - it engages enough to stay in, but could be better - but I do still need to do some adjusting (see below).

     

    Stef - That makes sense, but both TR Shop and Moss seem to sell the same visor to cover the Spitfire, TR5 and TR6!

     

    DRD - Driver's side one stays up OK, but passenger side one drops down while driving, so my job this afternoon is to put a bit more of a bend in the pivot arm (it already has a slight bend in it from before) - suspect this will be a game of trial and error. I've seen reports of people squeezing the visor instead to tighten the inner tube, but I can't see how to do that without damaging the vinyl.

     

    Cheers

     

    Steve

  5. ​I have recently had to replace my sun visors and thought it would be worth sharing the following information & pictures on different visors to help others - hopefully the attached pictures help show the issue.

     

    ​My original visor is the middle one of 3 in the attached picture - as you can see the top visor (from TR Shop and same shape as the one supplied by Moss) is a different shape, while the bottom one (from John Skinner) is the same as my original visor. I tried fitting the TR Shop visor, but the indent on the right hand side means the short inner pivot bar (not shown) does not reach the rubber retainer clip once fitted into the visor - I would have had to move the clip to use the visor, resulting in an extra hole in the windscreen frame, or slide the visor along the main pivot bar - but then the visor would hit the mirror. I did a search online and found the John Skinner visor - the same shape as my original and with fitted inner pivot bar. This engages with the retainer clip OK and you can also see how it drops down without fouling the mirror.

     

    ​Hope this is of help to someone.

     

    ​Steve

     

     

    post-12975-0-47325500-1492258132_thumb.jpgpost-12975-0-59316100-1492258141_thumb.jpgpost-12975-0-94238300-1492258147_thumb.jpg

     

     

  6. Robin

     

    I have a fairly standard 1972 CP Pi up in Weybridge if that helps and an easy drive up the M3 from Camberley - or happy to take a run down to you one weekend if free now the weather is improving! As others have said, the brown book is invaluable, as is the Moss catalogue. You're not too far from Rees Bros in Aldershot and they regularly have 6's in their workshop and might be happy for you to pop over and take a look?

     

     

    Cheers

     

    Steve

  7. Hi

     

    Does anyone know the size and thread of the nut on the end of the speedo trip meter reset cable, or know where I can get one? The cable works fine, it is just getting very frustrating to have to fiddle around under the dash every time I want to reset the trip meter!

     

    Picture attached showing cable in its' bracket without nut.

     

    Thanks

     

    Steve

    post-12975-0-52800100-1464376191_thumb.jpg

     

  8. I know this post is a bit old, but I wanted to say thanks to Ivor for the hints on the serrated washers and the order for sticking the velcro - made my job a lot easier.

     

    Also, I wanted to add another hint - use a small amount of silicon grease to get the seals into the rails - made the world of difference.

     

    Thanks

     

    Steve

  9. Hi John

     

    Good question - My view is that it is more sound/vibration deadening, rather than sound proofing, killing the unwanted vibration noise and letting the aural delights of the exhaust, engine (and all those other squeaks and rattles) come through, but I can see why it may not be for everyone. I certainly felt it made a worthwhile improvement - plus kept me busy on those rainy days before Xmas....

     

    Cheers

     

    Steve

  10. Hi Barry

     

    I have just used Silent Coat 2mm to replace the old (original?) black sound deadening pads on the body over rear axle, floor pan behind seats, rear wheel arches, inside rear wings behind boot trim and spare wheel space - it has made a noticeable difference. Difficult to describe, but less tinny vibration noise is best I can do. I used the pack of 10 tiles (187 x 265mm) from Sound Deadening Shop. I did a bit of research and Silent Coat was best £/ft2 I found. I plan to do the front footwells and bulkhead next.

     

    If you pm me I can send photos.

     

    Cheers

     

    Steve

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