SteveB21
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Posts posted by SteveB21
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Hi Bob / Adrian
It came from RoadPro - link below. They do a range of 12v USB / lighter sockets, so you can see what suits you best. I've also seen versions with LEDs to indicate battery state, etc., but can't recall where.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Adrian
I like Kev's solution - another option is to attach it under the glovebox as I've done on my TR6 - see picture. I have wired it into the fusebox so it is permanently live, which means I can charge my phone without having the ignition on. I can dig out where I got mine from if you want further info. It is set back to allow access past the lip of dash vinyl, which has the benefit that it is out of sight from outside the car.
Cheers
Steve
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I have the Rewire Security DB-1 Lite on my car with app on my phone and it works well. You can also set it up to send text alerts and it has alerts for vibration, power disconnected, ignition on and towing (car moving with ignition off) amongst others.
Hope that helps (I realise it doesn’t answer your original question!).
Cheers
Steve
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+1 for the PIAA silicon blades from Revington. Fitted them to my 6 and noticeable difference.
Steve
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I use 1144 and standard discs (from Moss) and they have been fine for road use.
Cheers
Steve
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+1 for the Revotec fan and mounting brackets, also for removing the engine block drain plug and flushing the system first.
Steve
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Just to add to this - I use the Osram bulbs but found a similar benefit when I switched from "Lucas" repro lenses to decent Cibie units, which I now see Moss have started stocking.
Cheers
Steve
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Spent a fun day replacing the m/c and bleeding brakes. The servo to m/c studs and nuts are definitely 3/8" UNF - and I found the brown book torque table actually states this! The joys of old cars...
For reference, given previous threads on poor quality m/c, I used the TRW m/c from Moss and everything seems to work OK so far.
Steve
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Hi
It looks like one of my bank holiday jobs will be replacing the brake master cylinder, but on checking the nuts and studs that attach the current m/c to the servo they appear to be 3/8" UNF x 9/16" - not the 5/16" UNF or alternative metric size as per the catalogue. Does this make sense to anyone?
Thanks
Steve
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Tim
Have you tried "Pamela David Enamels" at www.badgecraft.co.uk - they were at the London Classic Car show recently and while not cheap, the quality appeared pretty impressive (usual disclaimer, no connection, etc!)
Cheers
Steve
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Hi guys - my air intake hoses are attached with cable ties under the grille valance - I didn't know there were special hoops for the job! Hopefully these pictures from a couple of years ago help.
PS) the air filter box is missing in the second photo!
Cheers
Steve
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I use a CTEK on my 6 and you can get attachments to plug it in via a cigarette lighter socket or hard wire to the battery.
Steve
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+1 for checking the fit with the hood - my roll bar was fitted by the PO and one of the hood bars just catches the rollbar and has started to take the vinyl off. I have seen others with the same issue. As Tim says, you should be able to access everything with the wheels off.
Have Fun!
Steve
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Peter
That's a neat idea - do you know if the outlet pipe on the MG outlet is the same diameter as the TR6 one, enabling a straight swap using existing top hose?
Thanks
Steve
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Rich
Here's a picture to help you - I have my bottle filled to the halfway mark when cold, with the hose just off the bottom of the bottle. Use "blue" ethylene glycol antifreeze (don't mix anti-freeze types) and change every 2 years to keep corrosion at bay. The high point of the system is the off-take on top of the engine, so it can help to re-fill the system with the front of the car on ramps / stands, make sure the heater valve is open when re-filling (sorry if that is obvious...). It can take a couple of runs to get all the air out of the system after a full flush and re-fill, so don't panic if the level in bottle goes down after your first run post-refill - just top it up - do check for leaks if it doesn't stabilise after a couple of runs though...
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Colin
No problem - I was working under the car yesterday anyway, so it was easy to take the pictures and measurements. The attached picture shows how close mine comes to the rear bumper and valence - I've had no problems with fouling and I guess the only way to see if you do will be a few road trips!
Thanks for the compliment - I did get the underside waxoyled at the end of the summer and the exhaust was fitted at the same time, so still fairly new!
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Colin
I hope the following measurements and pictures help. As you can see, the rear of the box is aligned with the cross-member and this gives good clearance for the exhaust under the rear valence and bumper.
A 170mm x 25mm piece of flat bar has been used to attach the 2 mounting straps onto the cross-member. Looking from the rear, the left-hand one is 110mm from the centre of the cross-member and the right-hand one is 240mm away (and 130mm from the chassis box section to its' right). The mounting bracket that goes round the exhaust pipe is slotted, so you have some degree of adjustment there.
I can send you more pictures / better resolution ones if you want - just PM me your email.
Cheers
Steve
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Robin
Thanks for posting the instructions and pictures - I have an intermittent wiper switch and now feel brave enough to take a look at it properly.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Colin
I should be able to get this for you over the weekend - would any other measurements be useful while I'm at it? I have the big bore single box system off a standard manifold.
Cheers
Steve
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Just fitted a pair - agree with Ian and Roger x 2.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Tim
Attached another picture of high level brake light on roll bar, attached by velcro, also the aluminium band protective fix I saw at IWE a couple of years ago.
Cheers
Steve
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Tim
I have a similar problem with the passenger side of the hood catching on the bar. I'm away from the car at the moment but can send photos next week. As an interim measure I use a piece of card between the roll bar and the hood bar to protect the vinyl, but I'm toying with the idea of slotting the mounting holes in the bar so I can slide it forward the fraction of an inch required to ease the problem. I've seen others with the same problem, so you're not alone! I've also seen a neat protective solution with an aluminium band which I think i have a photo I can send.
Cheers
Steve
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Richard
Enginuity have a rolling road as well, but you also have Rees Bros nearer you in Aldershot. They set my 6 up nicely. Plus Crown Classics in Twickenham/St. Margarets.
Cheers
Steve
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My place of work is only 3 miles from Moss London, so easy for me to drop in - but it is an easy run up the M3 then A316 if you're coming from further afield (like Denmark!). If you want to see what it is like, go to their webpage, click on the Wheeler Dealer at Moss link and watch the video - unfortunately it features the highly annoying Mike Brewer, but shows the shop and warehouse.
Cheers
Steve
Boot trim
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by SteveB21
Hi
If you had fitted a new pump I was going to suggest fitting a carburettor liner if you had moved the fuel pump to give you more space, but sounds like that might not be an option! Also, use a cut-out from the old boot carpet to go over the exposed wheel arch. The other suggestion is to fit some SilentCoat / DynaMat over the wheel arches, on the fuel tank and on the inner wing panels to reduce noise before you fit the new trim.
If you want I can send more pictures - just PM me.
Cheers
Steve