[Thin Belt Bottom Pulley question.]

If the pulley alignment is Ok, you should be good....just the length of the bolts would annoy me.

[2500 Cylinder Head Differences.]

Hi Guys...Would I be correct in stating that the cylinder heads changed after 1971.

See pic...the top gasket is for the earlier head, the bottom for after 1971? with the wider spacing of the inlet ports

[TR Specialists in Scotland]

Seek out an old skool mechanic, these cars are very basic.

[People’s thoughts on TR4]

Overall it looks good, but does have faults.

More pics including the door panel gaps would be helpful.

Live axle versus IRS is a personal choice, as is the TR4 style emergency brake position on your left leg.

Minor things like the additional puller fan and untidy hydraulic lines in the engine bay would annoy me.

More of a concern is ......the question of the inner sill/floor body mounts. One can only assume they were welded in after the oics were taken...Assume new floor pans fitted.

Plus ...if the underside of the body was stripped down to bare metal and any rust eliminated, why is so much seam sealer used.

My impression is that minor rust areas, may have been cleaned, then liberal amounts of sealer were applied over the primer...The bottom of the spare wheel well looks problematic...Rust was not eliminated as stated, but contained.

 

[What was wrong with the second TR6 pic that you posted]

[Buying mz first TR6, help needed.]

Engine/gearbox oil leak on the first car is still a concern.

 

[Buying mz first TR6, help needed.]

Shaun...My impression of the first car that you posted is that the mileage quoted is not genuine... the dealer has made the outside of the body look nice, but neglected to fix mechanical issues.. the car has not been cared for... has an engine out of the car oil leak, probably from the rear crankshaft seal.

Stay away unless it is a bargain price.

[Paint]

Spray paint all the corners first....cut down the width of the fan spray.

[Camshaft identification???]

Very unlikely to be the incorrect camshaft...As "Peter" suggested, the valve timing on the cam is possibly incorrect.

Who did the engine restoration?.

[Vacuum gauge in restored dash….worthwhile or what?]

Nce work on the veneer.....I would prefer an Air/Fuel gauge rather than Vacuum, providing you are prepared to fit the sensor into the exhaust pipe..

[Moss fibreglass Surrey top]

How much cheaper is the "Honeybourne" rear section to the new alloy reproductions now available.

[Leather crash pad - how does it compare to the original vinyl?]

Looks good Peter....who did the stitching and is it leather or vinyl.

[Check required on 2500 PI Camshaft Specs.]

Thanks guys.

 

[Suddenly scary noise]

On 9/26/2023 at 3:51 PM, Michel Higuet said:

The oil slinger is in the right position but not enlocated, no key there to located. The sound doesn't seems located to the front or rear. Caution with "it's seems ".

My mistake Michael, I was thinking of my 6cyl TR engine. Your timing chain looks to a little stretched though.

[Check required on 2500 PI Camshaft Specs.]

Please confirm or otherwise that these specs are for a PI camshaft that I have.

Lift inlet & Exhaust...0.252"

Exhaust opens 64deg, closes 34.

Inlet opens 34, closes64.

@ 0.050 valve timing.....Inlet & Exhaust duration 225.

 

 

[Anyone recognise this white TR6 UBD 298G]

Looks to be a good car without any obvious defects....Although body finish is indeterminable from the pics.

[Ground clearance]

Don't touch the body, or fit uprated springs.

Post some pics of the problem for advice from members.

[Suddenly scary noise]

Was the oil slinger on the front crank OK?...ie. still enlocated?

And the sound is not coming from the rear of the engine/clutch area??

[Sump Removal]

On 9/23/2023 at 8:33 PM, Andy Lowe said:

Hi All that gave advice.

                                         All great top tips thankyou, especially the extra shredded wheat. I don't have words for the satisfaction the sound of that sump breaking away from the engine gave. One of my own additions was a little squirt of brake cleaner also seemed to help.

Regards to all.

Only an Aircraft Engineer would have a workshop that tidy...I am jealous.

[Heat Shielding footwells, transmission tunnels, etc?]

On 9/20/2023 at 6:53 AM, Bfg said:

Hi Steve,

Lierally speaking..  "Dam it !" to the engine heat (..and noise) coming through to the gearbox cover. 

Talking heat exchange / transfer.. the air forced through the radiator is heated and then flows around the engine. The hot engine and the exhaust manifold & downpipes heats it further still.  A good amount of this very hot air pushes through the bulhead's bridge to flow around the gearbox (heating that up) and under its cover.  By fitting a simple dam - the hot air, from the engine bay is instead mostly drawn out underneath the car ..where it is mostly carried away with the general air flow. 

Albeit a TR4A < here's what I did >   a little more < here > which then also shows the ribbed-rubber I used as an accoustic barrier inside the cover.  Household carpet under-felt is loosely fitted over the outside of the cover, if only to make it softer to rest my leg against as I drive the car.

There is no lagging on the exhaust manifold, downpipe or exhaust. The car is fitted with a nine-blade (mechanical) TR6 plastic type fan. Despite this being a steel gearbox cover (which conducts heat more easily than cardboard or fibreglass) the heat now conducted through it is quite acceptable. 

As an aside, my old Jaguar 3.8 straight-six exhaust manifold came within 1-1/2" of the corner of the footwell's bulkhead.  I used a square (man's-hankerchief size) of plumber's heat-shield fabric (formerly asbestos) locally on that corner of the bulkhead, and just that prevented most all of the directly radiated heat.  

Hope that helps,

Pete

That's a dam good idea.

 

[TR6 standard wheels verses Wire wheels]

13 hours ago, michaelfinnis said:

What is your concern with wires?

They cannot possibly be as strong as a solid rim...If a wire wheel collapses, then you may be severely injured.

[TR6 standard wheels verses Wire wheels]

On the safety issue alone, I would not fit wires in preference to solid wheel rims.

[Overdrive specialist recommendations?]

I would firstly check that the solenoid is receiving sufficient current to operate correctly.

 

[Heat Shielding footwells, transmission tunnels, etc?]

If you have a front exhaust muffler, try fitting some insulation material onto the underside of the body near the muffler and also into the trans tunnel.

 

[Is this rust worrying?]

Neilson...We can help you to choose the right car, but we need plenty of pics, especially of the body and chassis as they are the major $ area.

Mechanical repairs are relatively cheap.

[Is this rust worrying?]

1 hour ago, Neilson said:

Wow, that is one of the best TR4s I’ve seen - Impeccable!

I imagine this being a £50k + car in the UK, and the list of extras is endless. I’d be too scared to drive it haha!

Thanks again Michel 

Nearly impeccable...rear bumper bar not aligned correctly.