Malbaby
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Posts posted by Malbaby
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2 hours ago, A Brit in Bama said:
Any of you try the Good Parts CV axles from the US?
Especially when installed in combination with their uprated hubs, I consider this a serious safety upgrade, and so (to answer the question of the original post) worth the money. Not to mention, the car runs smoother, and with less maintenance required (no greasing UJs etc.)
https://www.goodparts.com/product-category/drive-train/upgraded-axle-hub-kits/
The pic shows one of the units before I installed it on my 71
No doubting the quality of GP items....the only thing that I do not like is having to use an adapter to connect their 5 bolt inner to the 4 bolt of the factory diff stub axles.
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Finally started on preparing my second surrey top for paint.
This one required even more work than the first one I purchased a few years ago.
The backlight is fairly good, but the top has lots of problems.
Anyone contemplating buying one be aware that there is probably at least 10 hours work to make them reasonble.
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Don't buy uprated [higher compression ratio than factory] springs.
Stuart's suggestion is worth a try.
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There is a guy here in Australia that sells nicely made CV systems...diff stub axles to hubs...the bonus is that he can supply new diff stub axles, thus alleviating the need for an adapter.
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I always bare metal prior to any body panel repair, as that is the only way to determine what type of repair is appropriate.
As Stuart noted, the bonnet crack is due to metal stress/fatigue and requires reinforcement of the supporting structure in various forms.
I also plug weld in a long strips of metal to the inside edges of the bonnet sides, and reinforce the back corners with angle brackets.
That cowl needs comprehensive investigation as there has been some dodgy repairs.
Personally, I prefer to cut out suspect areas and replace with new metal.
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13 hours ago, Cambsguy said:
Thank you, not considered the compression rate, will have to check what springs i have fitted, attached a photo, can you tell from this?
No.....There is website on the internet that you can use to get a fairly reliable compression rate figure....requires height, wire diameter and the number of coils etc.
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I get similar symtoms, just like being "sea sick"...Vertigo unfortunately....no easy treatment.
Now have a 2 post car hoist..
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Roger probably has the correct answer.
There is also a bush at the top and one at the bottom of the column that seperate the inner shaft and the outer column.
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Your current actual spring height is ok.
The length of the springs is not the sole consideration...Compression rating is important, as can be seen in Jerry's chart.
Your current springs must be uprated, higher compression rate than normal.
I would replace them with stock ...ie around 320-350 lb/inch.
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Apart from the price....and the red brake drums
As others have stated this was not a body off restoration.
IMHO...I cannot see any point in buying a 250, when I can buy a much better car for less money.
All that underseal would put me off....cannot have been removed during restoration...possibly added to or just painted over...
Chassis pics would be helpful.
One obvious body problem...the bottom of the boot lid to body gap is not correct.
There are not any good pics of the door gaps...on one pic the driver's side rear bottom seems smaller.
Only a minor thing, the brake/clutch lines in the engine bay are not neatly done.
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Would a quick release steering wheel pass a MOT?
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As an outsider, I would be interested in what you UK guys value the car at.
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Another consideration is one of those odd shaped steering wheels that are flat at the bottom.
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21 hours ago, Neilson said:
Hey, thanks again for the advice.
The car’s priced at £33k, but I wouldn’t pay that. Would £27k be a good offer?
Apparently the bodywork and interior are amazing, and panel gaps are spot on. The engine and gearbox were overhauled by Revington.
The car had a close to bare metal paint job too.
Someone who went to see it, had viewed 16 TRs over the course of 3 weeks and said this was one of the best out there.
The seller has given me his mechanic’s details, so I can talk to him about pricing up the work. If it amounts to thousands I’ll definitely leave it and carry on the quest!
"The car had a close to bare metal paint job" is also of a concern...Does the seller have pics on what was actually done...As I said before, the paint job requires very careful inspection....Looks good on the pics, but is it?
If the paint job is perfect, then it comes down to price.
The seller's mechanic/engineer is a big worry......Apart from his problematic comments, even a very small thing like the fitment of the clutch hydraulic line in the engine bay is amateurish.
UK members would have the most experience regarding pricing.
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3 hours ago, james christie said:
As they say here ‘au marriage la mariée est belle, c’est quand on lève la jupe, il y a les surprises’
=at the wedding the bride is beautiful, it’s when you lift the skirt you find the surprise
james
Depends on what the surprise is...
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I believe that the Payen gasket does not have sealing rings...Canley classics do not have a close up pic on their website.
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Andy's summation comments are excellent.
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Neil.....Bottom line is that you would need to be buying this car at a very attractive price.
eg...For those brackets to be missing is unbelieveable, and must be fitted for safety reasons...as previously stated, very expensive to retrofit....sounds like the owner just fitted the bolts through the floor pans...and what else has been poorly done, eg. floor pans and spare wheel replacement....how good/bad were the rocker panels?...the rockers would also need very careful inspection as it is hard to believe that they did not also need some rust repair.
As a rough guess, I would allow about 5 thousand pounds to rectify the obvious and unseen problems, providing the paint work is excellent with no shrink back etc.
Would I buy the car?.....yes, but at the right price.
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Interested to know who made this gasket.
Note the sealing rings around the ports.
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Most electric vacuum pumps, as in your pic, are used in conjunction with the traditional vacuum brake booster when adequate/prolonged vacuum is not available from performance "cammed" engines....Don't see the need for an additional electric vacuum pump on our TR's...Some guys have used a larger booster, eg. Volvo twin diaphram [involves some fabrication].
The old skool way of providing extra vacuum was to fit an electric vacuum pump with a pressure switch to operate, a relay and smallish additional vacuum storage tank.
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Thanks guys.
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It is not a cheap repro, but early and later heads as in Tony's pic.
I would like to know what year they changed.
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22 hours ago, Neilson said:
Hi, some really interesting points and some possible concerns!
I’ll ask about the inner sills/floor body mounts and see if new floor pans were added.
I mentioned about the seam sealer and he told me this was an area that was always overlooked and where rust will occur unless sealed. Not many people do this, but I don’t know if this is the case or not?
is this where you mean about the spare wheel container, highlighted in blue?
Thanks
Neil
Yes...the bottom panel of the spare wheel well is continuous with a lip that rolls around onto the outside of the vertical panel..there are no joins at the corners....at the bottom of your blue outline there are some ruff looking areas on the bottom panel, rust or other?...there is no reason for any sealer to be applied to this area, unless the bottom panel of the the wheel well was also replaced, or rust contained.
Evidence of new floor panels being poorly fitted also, as you can see the welds on the join in the blue circle.
Bottom line for me is that the work done that is seen on the underside pics of the body may be acceptable to some, but it lacks quality workmanship.
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9 hours ago, stuart said:
Seam sealer over the joints is the proper way to ensure there are no water leaks in spot welded seams. I do this all the time.
Stuart.
I use seam sealer also...It is the amount/extra spread that is the concern.
Honeybourne Surrey Top.
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted · Edited by Malbaby
Working old aluminium is problematic.
Interested to know about Ace Fibreglass products in Dorset.
The only good thing with F/G is that is easily repairable and will take filler to achieve a good surface.